You can save a substantial amount of money by constructing your own veranda. Typically, hiring a professional to build a veranda of this size could cost around £2200, but I managed to build mine for just £431.96. So, if you’re interested in having a veranda, canopy, patio cover, pergola, or a simple lean-to, consider tackling the project yourself and potentially save over £1000. In this post, I will guide you through each step of how I created this fantastic addition to my home and garden. It has significantly expanded our living space, offering a comfortable place to sit regardless of the weather.
Most competent DIYers can achieve this structure with a few basic tools. The main structure uses the house and good ground supports for anchor points and the canopy for weather protection. The materials I’ve used can be found in most DIY stores but I’d recommend buying the corrugated sheeting online if you can’t find the correct thickness. It’s better to buy the 1.1mm thickness as opposed to the thinner 0.8mm sheets sold in B&Q. The thicker sheets last longer and won’t be as noisy in heavy rain.
We added some decking & guttering afterwards which cost an additional £450.
Click here to see how I built the decking area.
Here is another veranda I built recently with solid polycarbonate roofing sheets. It’s quite a bit more expensive but worth it if you can afford it. Read the full guide here:
Table of Contents
- Does a veranda require planning permission?
- Materials list for DIY veranda
- Tool list
- How to Build a Veranda – Step-by-Step Guide
- Readers DIY veranda
- A new house and a new veranda (June 2022)
- My top posts
- How to Build Your Own Shed From Scratch – On a Budget
- How to Build a Garden Office From Scratch – On a Budget
- How to Build Your Own Decking Area on a Budget
- How to Make a DIY Veranda With a Solid Polycarbonate Roof
- BillyOh Kent Log Cabin Review And Step-By-Step Build Guide
- How to insulate your BillyOh garden office log cabin
- Related
Does a veranda require planning permission?
Before you get started on your veranda, one important question that many people have asked me is – Does my DIY veranda require planning permission? More often than not you won’t need planning permission but check the below list and keep your construction within the guidelines. You can also check the UK Planning Portal for more information and it’s always worth checking with your local planning department before you get started.
Veranda planning permission requirements:
- Must not be wider than the existing building.
- The maximum depth for a single storey building must not exceed 3000mm for an attached building and 4000mm for a detached building.
- The maximum height must not exceed 3000mm.
- The maximum height of the eaves within 2000mm of a boundary shall not be greater than 3000mm.
- Raised platforms must not exceed 300mm.
- No extension in front of the main elevation or side elevation fronting a public highway.
- The total area of ground covered by the veranda must not exceed 50% of the land around the original house.
Background and detail
After deciding the size of the veranda I needed to check if it would actually fit under the eaves of our roof. We live in a chalet bungalow, therefore the roof comes down quite low, so I had to decide whether the top edge of the veranda would go over the roof eave or under. Luckily the eave was just high enough to go under and allow enough run off to the end of the veranda without going too low. The measurements are:
- Top edge height (under eave)- 2400mm
- Bottom edge height – 2150mm
- Length – 2400mm
- Width – 6900mm
I was initially concerned with the run off angle of the roof (the pitch) to avoid water becoming stagnant. I ended up with a 4 degree pitch which was just enough. Water tends to sit much easier on plastic than with glass so bear this in mind when planning your own.
With this being nearly 7m wide I knew two support posts weren’t going to be enough, but three post would be fine. We considered protruding 3 meters into the garden but decided that 2.4 meters was enough. The 3m length would have cost about an additional £120.
Finding the correct materials
I used building grade wood for the structure and some basic 2×1 pine for the purlins. If you want a chunky, stable build then look for C16 building certified wood. I shopped around and struggled to find a reasonable priced merchant with good delivery prices. In the end I found a merchant on eBay with great prices and free next day delivery. See below for sourcing timber. You can also use sites like ArchiPro to find building and hardware supplies.
I also purchased a number of other items from various sellers on eBay including the 100 x 100 support posts, galvanised steel post shoes, Vistalux corrugated heavyweight (1.1mm) plastic roofing sheets and Vistalux roofing sheet fixings. Make sure the corrugated sheets are 1.1mm or 1.3mm.
My other items were purchased at a local Wickes who also offer delivery on bulky items if you don’t have suitable transport.
Materials list for DIY veranda
- 150 x Vistalux fixings
- 10 x 2440mm corrugated PVC sheets (1.1mm) (weather proof roofing)
- 3 x galvanised 100 x 100mm post supports (for fixing the support posts to the floor)
- 12 x 2.4m 6×2 (47x150mm) C16 treated timber (for the rafters)
- 2 x 3.6m 4×2 (47x100mm) C16 treated timber (rear wall fixed supports)
- 2 x 3.6m 6×2 (47x150mm) C24 treated timber (outer supports that fit onto the support posts)
- 16 x 1.8m (9x18mm) pine wood (for the purlins)
- 3 x 2.4m 100x100mm treated timber (support posts)
- 12 x 120mm hex drew bolts M10 and wall plugs (for fixing the 4×2 to the house wall)
- 12 x 60mm hex screws M8 and plugs (for securing the post supports to the floor)
- 6 x 110mm M10 bolts and nuts (including washers)
- Assortment of screws
Tool list
To complete this job consider investing in a few essential tools. This is what I recommend but you can compromise where your budget won’t allow:
- Drill driver and impact driver – It’s always cheaper to by the set – Dewalt combi set
- A circular saw – Dewalt cordless Circular Saw
- A jigsaw – Dewalt cordless Jigsaw
- Socket and drill set – Makita 50 piece set
- Handsaw – 22″ 8TPi saw
- Tape measure – 8m is ideal for this job
- A protractor – try this one
- Set square – or roofers square
- Pencil – carpenters pencil
- Metal ruler – or aluminium
If you’re thinking of ripping some of the timbers into thinner strips then think about the best track saw for the job. Most of you won’t want to do this but it can help make the timber go further for less money.
How to Build a Veranda – Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1. Support post fixings
- Measure up and find the equal distance for the 3 posts to be placed. Don’t go right up to the edges of the veranda. Come in about 300mm each end and 200mm towards the house along the rafter.
- Place the post shoe on the floor and mark out the four holes.
- Drill the four holes with a masonry bit and insert the plugs.
- Bolt each corner down using the 60mm M8 screws.
- Repeat with the other two support posts.
Step 2. Support posts
Prepare the support posts. Your two 6×2 timbers will sit on these so you will need to cut a section out the top. (47x150mm)
- Measure the total height, in my case it was 2000mm plus the 150mm for the cross beams so 2150mm total. Cut the post to the correct length using a panel saw.
- Mark up the 47x150mm insert for the cross beams and cut this section out. Use a circular saw and panel saw for this.
- Once complete insert the posts into the supports. They should be a tight fit and stand on their own.
Step 3. Cross beam supports
Attach the cross beams (3600x47x150mm). To ensure I had good support all the way along the two beams I cut both at an angle and attached and bolted together on the centre support post.
- Cut one of the lengths at 55 degree angle as pictured. Use your circular saw.
- Lay this on top of the other piece and mark up with a pencil. Cut the pencil line.
- Drill and bolt these two pieces to the support posts using 110mm bolts and washers.
Step 4. House support beams
Fitting the 3.6m (47x100mm) beams to the house is next.
- Mark a level line across the back of the house and mark up your drilling locations along the beam.
- Using a masonry bit and the drill on hammer action drill about 65mm into the wall.
- I selected a total of 10 points along the wall, drilled, plugged and fastened the 120mm bolts and washers.
Step 5. The rafters
This was relatively easy once I worked out the angles to cut. To ensure the rafters fit under the eaves of the house I had to cut an indent into the wood and again at the other end to ensure I kept the 4 degree run off. To calculate the rafter cut angles I used this online triangle calculator. The below image might help you understand how I achieved this.
Important: Check the timber lengths before cutting notches. They won’t all be exactly the same length. I found some to be a few millimeters different. It’s important to cut them all to the same length first.
- Cut each rafter notch as described above using a circular saw and jigsaw.
- Cut a 45 degree angle at the end of each rafter, as seen in the below image.
- Mark up 12 equal points along the support timbers
- Place a rafter one at a time and secure with a 80mm screws into the top, down into the support post.
Now onto the roofing.
Step 6. The purlins
The corrugated roofing on the DIY veranda had to be supported by purlins which are the smaller lengths of wood that fit crossways along the rafters. These are to ensure you get good support and fixing points along the veranda for the roofing sheets.
- Using a 2×1 timber (or 25mmx50mm) secure 3 runs the entire length of the veranda. See below image.
- Secure these in place with 60mm screws.
Step 7. Fitting the roofing sheets to the veranda
The final job was to fix the roofing sheets to the purlins.
- Using a ladder, screwing pilot holes along the sheets at the location of the purlins. Ensure the screw points are at the top of the corrugated curve, not in the dip.
- It’s important that you use the correct roof fixings to secure the sheets in place. These capped screws will protect from water leaking through the sheets.
- Starting at one end, secure one sheet to the structure ensuring it is 100% square. Any angles will prevent the front edges from lining up correctly. It’s advised to place two or three sheet before you start securing them.
- Insert about 4 screws per sheet, per line. 12 in total for each sheet.
- Overlap the sheets with 2 curves to secure a good watertight seal between them.
You can also find self tapping roof fixings which prevent the need for pre-drilling holes.
Step 8. Finishing the DIY veranda
This takes us up to the finished DIY veranda project. Painting the veranda will make a huge different to the overall aesthetics but it’s up to you. I used a grey exterior wood paint.
Now all we need is some nice decking and furniture to enjoy our new outdoor space and maybe an electric patio heater for cooler afternoons to comfortably enjoy a cup of tea! But that’s for another time. Please feel free to comment below and share your experiences.
Update March 2020. I’ve recently added some decking and guttering which cost an additional £450. Click here to read how to install the decking.
Save money on tools and materials
Save money on your tool and material purchases with a cash back account like TopCashback. I’ve been using this site now for a few years and generated over £1000 on all my everyday purchases.
Here’s a snapshot of my current earnings
Before and after pictures for this DIY veranda. Read about the DIY decking here.
April 2015
Feb 2020
Mar 2020
April 2020
As you can see we’ve recently renewed the patio. Read all about this DIY porcelain patio here. The DIY veranda, decking and patio make the perfect combination.
Here’s a quick look at my latest project. A DIY garden sofa and table set made from Iroko wood.
August 2020. I’ve recently added a reclaimed wood boardwalk and another decking area to the garden to tidy things up.
Readers DIY veranda
Here are a few pictures from one of my readers, Jon. He’s done an amazing job with added trellis walls and railings to add some privacy and divide between this and the rest of the outdoor space. Proper job!
Save more money on your DIY veranda
If you are interested in saving a bit of money on all your DIY projects why not take advantage of a cash back site like ‘TopCashBack‘. I used this site for all my online purchases and accumulated well over £1000 in just 3 years. A nice little bonus for some new tools! My wife has also been using TopCashback and together we’ve generated over £2800. Here’s a screenshot of my current earnings.
I’ve also installed the TopCashback browser plugin to ensure I never miss out of cash back again.
A new house and a new veranda (June 2022)
Take a look at my latest veranda build. We loved the last one so much that I decided to build another one in our new house. This time I used a glass-like material for the roof and sealed it against the house. The solid polycarbonate sheets do cost more than 4 times the amount of the corrugated stuff but they look far nicer. They could easily be mistaken for glass.
You are going to save a reasonable amount of money doing this yourself but you will need to ensure the structure is safe and secure to withstand strong winds and heavy snow fall. If you don’t feel confident managing this yourself then consider hiring some professionals like these guys for some help.
My top posts
Take a look at some more of my projects for inspiration:
- How to build a garden office from scratch – on a budget
- Under stair drawers
- How to build your own decking area
- How to build your own shed from scratch
- How to build your own radiator cover
- How to restore weathered wooden furniture
- How to build a raised planter with seating
- How to replace architrave and update your doors
Hi Ben,
In Step 5. What did you use to connect the the rafters to the house support beams?
And the rafters to the front beam?
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks for your quick reply Ben,
That’s a great great link
Dave
Thank you very much for this guide. After reading and check everything i build my own veranda.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qfkCJEbTZsmrCzFa7
Thanks for reading. Enjoy your build.
I have been reading about the benefits of having a veranda for years. I was so excited to find this guide! It gives great tips on how to build your own veranda and what you can do with it once built. The guide is very detailed and has lots of pictures which are easy to understand. I love that it provides details on different types of wood, materials needed and the step by step instructions. Thank you for this wonderful article.
Thanks for the inspiration. I added the decking and lighting too. Furniture on the way. Was a big project (for me anyway) but it looks fantastic. I’m a software developer so stuff like this isn’t remotely what I do. But I really enjoyed it – and wouldn’t have started it if I hadn’t stumbled across this guide. Photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3pAtUtpdB6mKU3FD6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gSPDraW8it9t7tqi6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/R6QjvR2URCcvesK6A
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nw8KCtLTVVpyipDR8
Nice work Gabhan! Looks like you have a good level of skills for the work. I worked in IT when I completed mine so in a similar boat. You have a lovely garden. Ben
Great build. Where are you based?! Just wondering if you would like to come and build similar to my house in Bristol! So hard to find someone to build for the costs you are talking about. Had a company quote nearly £30,000 for something similar but with glass! 😱
Thanks for the invite Natasha but it’s not a service I offer sorry. Hope you find someone who can do this for a reasonable price. (not £30k :o) Ben
Hi Alex i got those timbers from B&Q that are spaced apart, they are fencing timbers
Hi Ben. Very nice veranda. I have build similar veranda on my house.
Do you know from where (you or someone else) bought timber for partition next to the fence on second veranda ?
It’s not mine sorry Alex so I can’t help answer this question.
Hi Ben,
Amazing build and writeup. And so nice of you to still answer questions years after the original article was posted.
I have a question about the stability of the structure.
I see you only anchored front posts to the concrete slabs which is my plan as well, and there are not 45 degree braces anywhere in the structure of the veranda. Which I would like to avoid as well purely for aesthetic reasons.
I assume veranda can’t move back and forth because it’s attached to the house. But what about sideways?
I see it’s leaning to the wall on the left hand side. Do you thing that wall is helping the structure’s rigidity or it would work just as well without it?
I have read a lot about digging holes for the posts and pouring concrete to help the stability of the structure but would like to avoid it if possible. What was the advice you were given regarding stability of your veranda?
Thanks,
Dusan
Hi Dusan, I’ve not had any issues with stability. The structure has been secure and solid since installation due to cut outs on the posts and number of rafters. If you’re worried then digging holes with Postcrete is a good way to add strength and if you feel additional stability is required afterwards then 45 degree braces will surely help.
Good luck with your build.
Thanks for the reply Ben.
Just one more quick question.
I see yo have two swings hanging from your rafters. I’ve read a lot of forums (mostly american) and they are recommending rafter sizes almost double of what you have used if you want to have swing chairs.
I was just wondering how are your swing chairs holding? Do you have any concern about the weight you put on them (let’s say big 260lbs man).
My plan is to have a bit longer rafters than you, 2.7m, but that’s not much of a difference. Also I plan to use rafter hangers (people seem to be saying that they are structurally even better than notching the wood?)
Kind regards,
Dusan
Hi Dule. We don’t have any issues with our swing chairs but please do your own calculations to make sure.
Hi Ben and Jon I found your post/thread when trying to research how to put a veranda along the front of my 50s bungalow in a Somerset seaside village! now, even without going any further, I know that I can’t ‘build’ anything on the front or side elevations as they both ‘front a main highway’ (well, quiet cul de sac!) But I still wanted to comment as I think this is a fantastic post and am really interested to see how well someone else did the job following your instructions etc. I’m also commenting because (being a 63 year old single nearly-retiree) I didn’t fancy doing this myself but in my tiny rear courtyard I got a mate to erect something very similar that I bought off the peg for around 600GBP 3 years ago from a Scandinavian company (TUIN DECO) that usually make log cabins – it’s a car port 3m deep by 4m wide and the price included the polycarbonate panels but I haven’t used those (except for my chicken coop!) and still have some left that I’m thinking I might now use for a couple of the panels where it could do with being a bit more waterproof … This was because when I bought the house it had an old grapevine that was still living but had nowhere to climb/thrive! now it is trained up and over the open struts and is coming on nicely. doesn’t keep the area underneath dry but does provide shade!!! I’m going to read your decking post now as my courtyard is all old concrete plus the old base of a shed that was in it when I bought it – demolished that but it makes a nice raised platform just needs some cosmetic TLC!!! fantastic guys, I’ll read your posts again and follow you now I’ve found you! Best wishes, Christina
Thanks for your comments and feedback Christina. Always good to hear people are finding this post useful.
Hey, really great guide. Was hoping you could shed some light on exactly what type/size of screw and plug you used for securing the beam to the wall of the house? It only says:
12 x and wall plugs (for fixing the 4×2 to the house wall)
Hi Dave, the materials list in the post covers this. They are 120mm (or 100mm is fine) hex bolts and 50mm x 10mm wall plug. I’ve just updated the post so that links are now available.
Great instructions ben i have all the materials in and will be starting this today mine is roughly 6.5m wide and 3.5m out from the house as i got the 3660mm long plastic sheets, i am also using 5 posts on mine as at later stage i want to add some nice rails etc wish me luck and thanks again…..
Best of luck Jonathon. Post a pic when you finish! 😁👍🏼
All finished would love to share a pic but not sure how to upload one
That’s great Jonathon. Feel free to email me the pic and I can upload it to the post. Ben@wood-create.com
Hiya, really nice job. Can i just ask, how did you seal it to the neighbours extension? I’m simply making a lean to roof in a small yard, the roof will be between our small extension and the neighbour’s,l extension and I’m just wondering how I will seal the side edges of my roof to the brick. flashing is obvious I know but my pitch won’t allow for nice “stair/stepped” flashing. the pitch won’t be steep enough! Thanks.
I’ve not sealed any part to the walls. You’ll need to research this separately.
HI, great instructional post. One question, is the roof really noisy when it rains? Don’t want to anger the neighbours by installing it and then driving them mad when it rains. Juts a rough idea would be great
Hi Si
The roof is fine, you can barely hear it. Just make sure you go for the thicker 1.1mm PVC sheets. You can always go for the even thicker sheets to reduce any noise further.
Hi Ben,
With regards to planning permission, I want to build a veranda like yours but I want it to be 19ft X 13ft. will I need planning permission for this? as it is not a building just a glorified shed roof.
I don’t know Joe. There are many different factors that only you can answer. I would suggest contacting your local council to find out.
Hi, general question please. What are the noise levels like on the roof when it rains?
Not too bad but make sure you go for the thicker 1.1 or 1.3mm sheets as they won’t be so noisy.
Hey Ben
Great work! I’ve been looking at building something very similar, but I’ve always worried about the corrugated plastic roof as it would be right underneath our bedroom window. Do you find the roofing noisy when it rains? Might be a weird question, but I hope you can help 🙂
Not a weird question at all as lots of people think about this. We haven’t had any issues with it. It’s right next to our living room and our daughters bedroom and it’s never been an issue. You have to make sure you buy the thicker stuff as the thin will sound much louder. Try at least the 1.1mm thick or 1.3mm thick for better sound deadening. Don’t buy 0.9mm thickness.
Brilliant! Thanks for this!
Thank for the answer, good info
Great write up thanks for doing this. Richard
Hi, great article, I’m going to build my own carport so I found all your tips and tricks very useful as this can be easily adapted into my ideas
Hi Ben. This is a tremendous account of your project and exactly the type of veranda I had visualised for my back garden. I searched to get an idea of wood sizes before I start my own one and found your detailed account. Brilliant and thanks very much!
Hi – This looks so good.
I am renovating a similar set up on my dormer bungalow. Not as refined as yours but a great addition to the house. Current set up had upvc fascia board up to join the guttering. Did you join the guttering to the joists? .
Yes
Hi,
Thanks for this, really useful. Can I ask how you dealt with your home drain pipe? Did you make a hole in the veranda roof?
Thanks
Pretty much, yes. Just cut through the corrugated sheets with a small hacksaw. It’s not water right but it didn’t need to be for this section.
Thanks, I have been looking for details about this topic for ages and yours is the best I’ve discovered so far.
Thanks for the drawing, that’s much clearer! You were certainly right about that.
Cheers,
Daniele
Hi Ben,
thanks for the instructional post, I want to do something similar in my garden soon!
Would you mind explaining how you figured out the cutting angles for the rafters (point #5) to maintain the 4% slope please?
Thanks!
Hi Daniele.
My maths isn’t great so I used a triangle calculator. Simply put in the lengths and the calculator will do the rest for you. This is the one I used: https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
Hope this helps, Ben
Hi Ben,
thanks for the quick reply, neat tool!
Unfortunately, my maths is probably worse than yours, so I’m not sure I understand how you used it 😛
Hi Daniele
It’s difficult to explain without drawing a picture.
I’ll update my post later today with a diagram which should help.
Regards
Ben
Hi, Firstly thank you for posting such an in depth instructional post. This is exactly what i want to do, i have a 5.0 width. I leveled my garden in the winter and built a deck so you step out the back of the patio doors straight onto the deck. I have a few questions.
1: I don’t think i have as much room above my door, 1 brick height before it stick out for the gutter, is this okay, can i reduce the wood size from 47×100 to 47×75? If not how would it work with it above? can i attach to the fascia, i was dubious on this?
2: Can i attach to the deck?
3: Can i get away with a post at each end with a 5m span? have to be 4.8 i think as no timber long enough.
i can post a picture of my back garden to help you see what i mean?
Thanks again for the great post!
Hi Paddy, thanks for you’re note. I’m afraid I’m not able to advise you on your questions. You should seek professional advise if you are unsure on your project. I did my own research and spoke to professionals which were only specific to my build. All the best with you’re build. Ben
hi.
nice project. do you need planning permission for this?
Many thanks
No. This one didn’t. Always best to check the planning portal to double check if you’re unsure.
I’m building a simple lean to 2.8m x 5m. 2.5m high. more or less same design with polycarbonate roof. it will be open on all sides. the structure will be anchored to the ground exactly like yours.
the house is terraced is not in a reservation area. we will use it just as a dry place in the garden to hang clothes or have a meal in the summer. 2 builders told me that I don’t need planning permission for this.
Many thanks for your reply.
Sounds great! Send me the post when your done 🙂