Build Your Own Lean-To Shed: Step-by-Step Guide

Learn how to build a lean-to shed with our comprehensive DIY guide. Perfect for storing tools, golf clubs, and more! In this example, I’ve built a narrow lean-to shed that’s perfect for storing my golf clubs, scooters and a number of car cleaning and maintenance equipment. If you’re looking to build your own shed, with limited space and you’re looking for a bespoke solution then this guide will be perfect for you.

Building a lean-to shed is easy enough for most competent DIYers and even some beginners out there. If you’re wondering how to build your own wooden shed at home, this guide will walk you through the process step by step. With a small list of basic tools and some simple materials, you can construct something like this over the course of a weekend. There are a number of tools that can speed up the process, but feel free to use what you have and are comfortable with.

Materials

Material	Notes
25x50mm timber batten	Roofing batten
22mm Shiplap Cladding	Treated shiplap timber
40mm screws	Suitable for exterior use
50mm screws	Suitable for exterior use
70mm screws	Suitable for exterior use
9mm plywood (or 9mm OSB board)	Roof and backing
Round eye washers (Penny washers)	For door catch
T Hinges	Door hinges
Clasp and Staple	Lockable door clasp
Shed roof felt	Watertight seal
20mm Tacks / Clout Nail	For attaching the roof felt
Sealant Clear	Suitable for exterior use

How To Build A Lean-To Shed: Step-by-Step Guide

I’ve built this shed on decking but you may be working on a different surface. I’d recommend building a suitable base before you get started. Here is a great guide for building a shed base.

Step One – Planning Your Shed Build

It’s important to plan your shed size and location carefully before you get started. you’ll need a good understanding of how it will function and fit in its surroundings. Think about how the doors will open, how tall it will be, the length and width. You want to avoid blocking access to areas of your garden and you want to be able to access the shed easily.

Also consider the door height and width. Access in and out of the shed should be easy. Will you have one door or two? Have a think and draw a sketch of what your lean-to shed will look like.

Step Two – The Lean-To Shed Base

I’ve built my lean-to shed on my decking, so there wasn’t much work required here but you might be planning to build your shed over gravel or paving slabs. If that’s is the case then you will need to build a base for the shed. A base will provide a stable footing for the shed and protect it from water ingress from the floor. This prevents rotting and water damage to your stored items.

You can read my full shed base guides here:

How To Build A Shed Base: Timber, Concrete, Patio & Plastic

by Ben 17/04/2024

How to Build a Shed Base on Uneven Ground

by Ben 21/02/2024

Step Three – The Lean-To Shed Frame

The starting point of any good shed build is a solid frame. This frame constitutes the starting point of any good shed. I’ve used 25x50mm roofing timber to construct this frame. Each piece has been carefully cut and fitted using either 45mm screws or 70mm screws. (With a diameter of 4mm).

Use the 25x50mm to build the ground-level frame. This will be the size of the shed footprint, minus the cladding. (Also consider the roof overhang in terms of overall footprint).
Join the timber using 4mm x 50 or 70mm screws.
Always drill a pilot hole for your screws. This will prevent the wood from splitting. (Try to use a countersunk drill bit to speed up the process and ensure the screw sits flat on the timber surface.)

With the floor level frame built we can now build upwards. The horizontal frame will support the cladding, doors and roof.

The rear horizontal framework can be secured to the wall and must be taller than the front to create a leaning roof. (Water needs to run off the roof to the front.) When securing the frame to the wall ensure you use a spirit level. Drilling into masonry can be achieved with a combi drill, masonry drill bit and with the hammer action selected.

First, place the wood against the wall and straighten it with a spirit level.
Drill holes at 4 equal intervals along the length of the timber. Use a wood drill bit and push far enough to mark the wall behind.
Now remove the timber and drill holes into the masonry. (I was drilling into wood so didn’t need to complete this part.)
Place Rawl plugs into the holes.
Secure the timber to the wall using suitable screws.

When cutting the rear horizontal timber, measure and cut for the sloped angle. I went with about 10 degrees.

The roof supports can be completed to provide a sturdy, level base for the plywood to be fitted to. A rear rail has been added so that each piece can be attached securley.

The Door opening can now be built.

Measure your preferred door opening size and build a frame inside the existing frame to match the desired size.
Cut each piece of timber to length and secure in place using the correct screw.
Ensure each side of the doors is aligned carefully. The doors will be rectangular in shape and must be equal lengths at each end. Measure your door opening to ensure it is perfectly square.
Add additional side supports and one top support to ensure the frame is solid.

Step Four – Cladding

For this step, we need to measure and cut all the cladding. I’ve secured the cladding using 40mm screws but you can also use suitable nails. (Nails can look tidier but I prefer working with screws as they can be adjusted easily.

Measure the side of your shed and cut the cladding to length. Mine took 16 pieces.
To speed the process up you can set your mitre saw up with a stop jig. This saves having to measure each piece before cutting.
Cladding can bow so it’s worth inserting 4 screws (or nails) per piece.

The top pieces can be cut using a circular saw or jigsaw. This will align perfectly with the top of the roof slope.

Hold a full piece of cladding against the wall.
Using a pencil mark down the rear side where the roof rafter runs.
Cut using your preferred saw.
Secure to the frame with screws or nails.

Repeat this process for the other side.

Moving onto the front of the shed we can cut the panels to the sides of the doors. These should overlap the side cladding and align perfectly with the door frame.

Cut each piece to length.
Secure to the frame using screws or nails.
Work your way up from the bottom. Complete both sides of the door before the next step.
Stop when you reach the top of the door frame.
Secure one large piece at the top of the door frame that reaches the width of the shed.
One final piece will be added above this. Using a jigsaw, cut out sections for the roof rafters to slot into.

The top of the last piece of cladding should align perfectly with the top of the timber frame. You can cut anything extra off to ensure a flush fit.

Step Five – Fitting the Roof

The roof will provide a watertight seal for the whole shed so it’s important to get this part right.

Cut a piece of timber to the width of the shed and attach it to the front of the roof rafters. (This provides a decent overhang and a point on which to secure the felt.
Secure this to the rafters using 50mm screws.
Cut a piece of plywood or OSB board to cover the roof. I’ve used a 9mm thick board.
Secure the board to the rafters and frame using 40mm screws.

Fitting the roof felt is the next stage.

Measure and cut the roof felt to the correct size.
Allow for a 50mm overhang around each edge.
Add an extra 60mm along the top section. This will be secured to the wall to form a watertight seal.
Felt can be cut with a sharp utility knife or large scissors.

With the felt cut to roughly the correct size, place it on the roof and line it up

Line the roof felt up with the top of the roof.
Use tacks to secure the felt into place
Space tacks about 5cm and secure them to the side of the roof frame.
Fold the front corners and tack into place
Using some roofing tape, apply a watertight seal in the corners next to the wall.
The felt will need to be cut to allow a flush fitting to the wall.
Apply a thick bead of silicone to the wall where the felt will sit.
Push the felt onto the sealant to form a watertight seal.
Apply a final layer of sealant along the join.

The roof felt can be trimmed for a perfect fit.

Step Six – Fitting the Doors

The doors form the final stage of this build and will help secure the shed and make it watertight.

The first task is to create a top stop for the door to sit against.

Cut a piece of timber to the width of the door frame.
Secure it into place so that there is an overhang below the cladding. (This will act a door stop.)

Making the doors:

Measure the height of the door opening. To allow easy movement of the door it will need to be 10mm shorter than the opening.
Measure and cut enough lengths of cladding to build two doors.
Try and trim off the thinner pieces of the cladding to ensure a good strong door on both sides.
Secure all the pieces together using the timber and create a cross pattern. Use the diagram below to see the strongest form. Use 40mm screws.
Parallel pieces are added to help secure the hinges in place.

Fitting the T-hinges in place.

Line up the T hinges and secure them to the door using the provided black screws.
Use a wedge to hold the door to the frame of the shed. Try and line up the top of the door to the top of the opening. Allow a 3-5mm gap.
Secure the hinges to the shed cladding.
Test the door opens and closes easily. Adjust as necessary.

In the above picture you can see I have added my own door catches. These are simple to make and only need to be added to one door. Make two of the following.

Cut a length of square timber about 15cm long.
Drill a hole in the middle.
Use two large washers and screw to the door frame using a 60mm screw.
Don’t over tighten.

This door can now be closed and secured by twisting the door catches inside.

The final step is to add the second door.

Step Seven – Finishing the Lean-To Shed

To finish the lean-to shed we can add some facia panels around the roof, paint or stain and build some shelves.

These final tasks can be completed to your own specific requirements. It is however very important to treat your wooden lean-to shed to ensure it lasts.

I’ve also put up some OSB boards so that I can secure items to the walls.

I’ve built a separation to store my golf clubs on one side. In the above picture, you can see I’m in the process of building a shelf.

Conclusion

This shed style can be adapted to suit your own personal preference. When building a shed that is larger than 6x8ft I would recommend using a stronger timber for the frame. A C16 construction timber is better for this type of build.

Hopefully, this guide has given you enough information to have a go yourself. Feel free to leave a comment below if you have any questions or would like to share your own lean-to shed build.

Here are some questions I’m commonly asked about building this lean-to shed

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How do you connect a lean-to shed to another structure?

To connect a lean-to-shed to another structure, attach the frame to the wall using large screws. For masonry walls, use Rawl plugs and apply a sealant to the inner frame before securing it. Ensure the roofing felt is watertight by applying sealant as described in the steps above. You could also consider some tougher roof materials to give the shed a longer-lasting roof. Here are my top shed roofing recommendations.

How do you build a lean-to shed on sloped ground?

Building a lean-to shed on sloped ground requires a level base. You can achieve this by constructing a timber frame, adjusting the soil, or landscaping the desired area. For detailed instructions, see our guide on building a shed base on uneven ground here.

What is the best base for a lean-to shed?

For lean-to sheds up to 8x6ft, a timber frame base is recommended. For larger sheds, a stronger foundation like a patio slab base may be necessary.

How much overhang do I need for a lean-to shed roof?

An overhang of at least 30mm is ideal for most lean-to sheds to allow water runoff. For larger sheds or those exposed to severe weather, a 60mm overhang is recommended. You can extend the overhang as needed to create canopies or other features.

Do I need planning permission for a shed?

For most shed builds you won’t need to complete a planning application as they fall within permitted development rules. There are however some caveats to be aware of before you get started. Read my full guide to sheds and planning permission here.

Tools Required For DIY Lean-To Shed

For this DIY shed build, I’ve used a number of different tools. You might not need every tool on this list as sometimes you’ll have something that can accomplish the same job.

Tools: