How to build a shed

How to build your own shed from scratch – on a budget

Are you wondering how to build a shed? A question I’d asked myself for some time was, can you build your own shed cheaper than you can buy a flat pack one? In short, yes you can and you can even make it a lot nicer! This post will detail how to build your own shed from scratch whilst keeping the spend to a minimum. My shed measures 12ft x 10ft (3m x 3.6m) which is a pretty good size for most requirements but you can easily adapt the structure to suit your ideal size.


Having built a number of garden buildings I’m happy to say this is one of the cheapest ways to build a shed. In this post, I have included a detailed step-by-step guide with pictures, a list of required materials (including where I sourced them), and the ideal tools for the job. I hope this ‘how to build a garden shed from scratch’ post is inspiring.

How to build a shed on a budget finished product

Here is my shed which was completed with a log lap cladding finish. You can see to the left a flat pack shed I built previously of the same size. Further in this post, not only will you find a detailed cost comparison between the two builds, but I’ll also guide you through the most effective methods for staining the shed.

Shed plans

I’ve recently finished creating my own 3D shed plans for this build. It’s taken me quite a while but I’m finally able to share them with you.

3D shed plans

The document includes a detailed 20-page step-by-step guide, a complete materials list, a cut list and detailed 3D drawings of each section of this build. I believe these to be the cheapest, most detailed plans on the Internet.

Materials list

You can use the links to see where I’ve purchased these materials and the current costs.

CLS C16 timber 38x63mm x 2.4m60
LogLap cladding 125mm x 22mm or
Shiplap cladding 119mm x 14.5mm or
Western red cedar (cut to size)
224m or
3×2 C16 construction timber 45x70mm x 3m8
3×2 C16 construction timber 45x70mm x 3.6m6
OSB3 18x1220x2440mm5
OSB3 12x1220x2440mm6
Corner/fence posts 90x90mm x 2.4m4
Cement 25kg1
Sharp sand 25kg4
Waterproof sheeting1
Roof felt 10m2
Door hinges4
Mix of screws – 80mm50mmselection box1
Hasp and Staple1

How to build a shed from scratch – Step-by-Step

I decided to go for the shed size 12×10 ft. (or 3×3.6m) and 2.4m tall. I’ve restricted the height to 2.4m to fit within the permitted development rules. Any higher (when within 2 m of a boundary) and you’ll need planning permission.

Step1. Building the shed base

The first task was to clear debris and level the ground.  

  • Using a tape measure I marked out the size of the shed and placed a paving slab in each corner.
  • To level the ground I used a shovel and rake to sift soil from one side to the other. To keep the ground dry and solid I poured sand and gravel over the surface and flatted it.
  • Using a large spirit level and some of the timber I levelled the ground as much as possible.
How to build a shed clear area

The shed footings

To save money I used reclaimed slabs which a friend gave me. To ensure a solid surface that wouldn’t shift I dug a 6 – 10 inch square hole under each slab. This hole was then filled with hardcore, sand and then topped with cement before gently laying the slab on top.

Shed Build 4

Mixing cement

This is quite simple.  You can mix this in a wheelbarrow, cement mixing tray or cement mixer.  I used 1 X 25kg bag of cement and 4 X 25kg of sharp sand which was enough to secure 8 slabs. You’ll need some cement, sharp sand and water to complete the mix.  

  • Start by mixing the cement and sand. Look for about 1 part cement to 4 parts sand. This doesn’t have to be an exact science, just roughly.
  • Start adding bits of water whilst mixing until you have just enough for a wet mix. (0.5 parts water)
  • Add the mix to the surface and place the slab on top.
  • Level the slab and check for the correct height. Adjust as required.
  • Leave the cement to go off for 24 hours before adding any additional weight.

Building the shed base wooden frame

I used the 3m & 3.6m C16 timber and a spirit level whilst laying the slabs to ensure a good level floor frame for the base.

Shed Build 5

I then added an additional 6 slabs for further support but didn’t cement these in. I dug down and filled the hole with gravel and sand to provide a good solid footing.

Shed Build 6

As you can see above I have used two of the 3.6m C16 and five of the 3m C16 construction timber to build the floor joists.

  • Secure all the pieces of the outer fame together with 75mm screws
  • Complete the same for the three inner 3m pieces
  • Brace each section with additional timbers ensuring the OSB board joins fit over the timber sections. This will prevent movement between each board. The boards measure 18mm thick & 1220x2440mm.
  • Secure the boards into place with 40mm screws.
how to build your own shed - flooring base

Complete the base and trim off any additional OSB with a circular saw.

how to build your own shed - flooring base

This completes my budget DIY shed base.

Alternative shed base ideas

If you are building your shed on an uneven surface or would like to build a solid concrete base then take a look at these other guides for some step-by-step instructions:

Step 2. How to build a shed wall

The wall frames

The first step was to create the wall frames using the 3m and 3.6m C16 and the 2.4m CLS timber. 

My walls measure 2m tall so simply measure, cut and screw the parts together.  Each baton should be spaced roughly 520mm apart. Use the 80mm screws to join the timber. Don’t forget your pilot holes to prevent splitting. You could also add a double top plate to the frame for additional strength but I didn’t think this was necessary.


corner posts

I used the 90mm square posts for the corners (2.4m in length). We can cut the posts to the correct height later, when the roof goes on. The posts are not fixed to the floor. They simply act as fixing points for the walls and roof.

Use 4 or 5 60mm screws to attach the walls to the posts. Using the same screws secure the wall frames to the base of the shed. Use about 5 or 6 screws per wall.

The wall frame should be mounted flush to the edge of the frame. This is so the cladding can be secured all the way down the wall and cover the gap between the wall and the frame.


Waterproofing the walls

You can see here I have started to add the waterproof sheeting. This will add an extra layer of protection from rain etc.

You may choose to add a breathable membrane but this will add about £90 to the final price. For a shed like this, it isn’t really necessary to have a breathable membrane as it’s not going to be insulated in any way. If you are thinking of insulating your shed then I would advise using a breather membrane.

Adding 9mm plywood to the frame will add loads of stability.  Just remember to mount the wall frames 9mm in from the edge of the base.


Above, you can see I am using a piece of timber on an angle to hold the walls into place.

3 wall frames up, now onto the front and entrance. Below, I have added the front outer frame which is simply to ensure all the walls are now lined up correctly. This is required for the roof build.


Step 3. Adding the wall cladding 

On with the cladding.  I purchased my log lap cladding from a company on eBay.  Click here to go to the listing. If you fancy something a bit thicker then you can find a similar 38mm loglap here: thicker 38mm loglap.

The great thing about the loglap cladding, it just slots together. You can secure them to the frame using screws or nails. I used 40mm x 4mm screws but lost head nails would look nicer.

cladding 2

Each piece was cut to length using a mitre saw. I started from the bottom and worked my way up each wall. ensure there are no gaps as you add each piece.

I stopped adding the cladding near the top of the wall as I had to build the roof before continuing.

Step 4. Building the shed roof

I decided on a 15 degree angle on a dual pitched roof for my shed. This would allow me to keep the overall heigh just under 2.5m (as per building regulations).

This pitched roof needs to be strong enough to support the weight of the roof and also my body weight.

You can set your mitre saw to 15 degrees to ensure each cut is the same. I’ve used the same timber as the walls.


To strengthen the roof trusses I cut some triangle shapes from the off cuts of the 18mm OSB flooring.  Additionally I used the off cuts of the 2×3 batons to further strengthen.  I tested each one of the rafters, making sure it could support my weight before continuing.


I completed 7 of these in total and cut out grooves either end (using a hand saw) to sit into the top of the wall frame. These were screwed in with 75mm x 5mm screws.


At this point I was running out of time.  I had one day before some heavy rain was due so I decided to crack on with the rest of the roof to keep everything dry.  

I decided to extend the roof 600mm to the front. This would add a small element of protection from the weather.

How to build a shed roof

These battens were secured using 75mm screws. Two for each side of each batten.

How to build a shed corner posts

With the roof framing now complete it was time to cut the top off the 90mm square posts.  I used a Black & Decker Scorpion Saw for this but you could also use a hand panel saw. Simply cut along the roof rafter.

how to build your own shed - roof eaves

Boarding and felting the roof

I used 11mm OSB board for the sheet materials on the roof. You could also use plywood sheets as an alternative option. 6 in total were used to cover the roof. Some of the boards had to be cut to size using a circular saw. They were all secured into place using 40mm screws. 

how to build your own shed - the roof
how to build your own shed

I required 2 x 10m rolls to cover the roof and this was cutting it fine. I used 10mm tacks to secure the felt to the roof. Tacks should be no more than 5cm apart.

felting a shed roof

Step 5. Adding a window

Building the front wall for the shed was the next step, having to make a slightly different frame to support the window and door opening.  

To save money on a window I searched locally on Facebook Marketplace and found something suitable for £30.  However, you can also consider an insulated glass panel for extra thermal and acoustic protection. 

I measured up for the door and window next. I built a custom door but if you are fitting a pre-made door then ensure you build the frame to the correct size.

Shed window

The window was easy enough to fit. I first decided on a suitable height and built a frame using the CLS timber to the correct size.


The Window is simply screwed in from the side.  Open the window and drill some pilot holes before setting in the screws. I secured it in place with some 60mm screws.


With the window in place I added the cladding.


More cladding

I completed the cladding on both the front and back of the shed. You will need to add some additional timber supports to finish off the back wall. I had to cut some of the cladding to fit around the window and door frames. I used a jigsaw to accomplish this.


While building your shed, you may not initially think about sound insulation. But what if you’re planning to use it as a workshop soundproof windows and soundproof glass to your shed can significantly improve your experience. offers high-quality soundproof windows and glass solutions designed to reduce external noises by up to 90%. It’s an investment in comfort and privacy, making your shed not just a storage space but a functional room you can actually spend time in.

Step 6. Building the doors

The shed door was made using more timber and some of the leftover cladding. I simply made a double door frame and secured the cladding vertically on this.


Hinges were added and the doors were secured in place with some 40mm screws. I didn’t add a handle but did add a lockable clasp for security.

how to build your own shed

Step 7. Painting or staining the shed

The final steps to building your own shed were to add some trim (facia) to the sides of the roof, fit a handle, hasp and staple to the door, motion sensor light and paint the whole shed.  It’s vitally important to ensure you protect the wood in your shed as soon as possible. Weatherproofing your shed will be vital for a long-lasting, secure structure.

Finishing the shed with exterior wood paint will add a professional finish and ensure it’s protected from the elements. You can choose a stain to enjoy the natural beauty of the wood, or a coloured wood paint if your garden has a coloured theme.

Check out my guide on prolonging the life of your shed here:

Now all that’s left to do is add paving, a path or some decking.

How to build your own shed uk

For specific measurements, full cut list and detailed step-by-step instructions take a look at my 3D shed plans and guides.

More shed plans

My shed build in a 2 minute video

Here are some questions I’m regularly asked about my DIY shed build

Here are answers to some of the common questions when it comes to building a DIY shed.

Q: Is it cheaper to build your own shed?

Here is the all important question. Can you build your own shed cheaper than you can buy a flat pack shed? As I purchased and built a flat-pack shed the year before, I have recent pricing and build experience to share as a comparison.

A: Yes, you can build a shed from scratch cheaper than you can buy a flat pack shed. You are basically saving money on the labour costs. The great thing is, a DIY shed built to these specifications is not only cheaper but built to a much higher standard.

Here is a cost comparison between flat pack and my DIY shed (12x10ft)
Screen Shot 2018-09-27 at 20.45.13

Please note these prices were from 2018 when I built this shed.

Q: How do I insulate my shed?

A: Insulating your shed is a great idea if you plan to use it all year round as a workshop or hobby space. It’s pretty easy but the costs can add up quite a bit. You can try and insulate your shed for free or on a budget but you’ll need to collect loads of free insulating materials before you get started. Click the button below to read my full guide on how to insulate your shed.

Q: Do I need planning permission for a garden shed (UK)?

A: Before you get started you’ll need to be aware of any building restrictions, so be sure to check the UK planning portal which outlines these key points:

  1. Outbuildings to the side of the house are not permitted development.
  2. Outbuildings are not permitted development within the grounds of a listed building.
  3. In national parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage Sites the total area to be covered by any outbuildings more than 20 metres from ANY WALL of the house must not exceed 10 square metres.
  4. Outbuildings are not permitted development forward of the principal elevation of the original house.
    The term original house means the house as it was first built or as it stood on 1 July 1948 (if it was built before that date).
  5. Outbuildings and other additions must not exceed 50% of the total area of land around the original house. Sheds and all other outbuildings (see intro) and extensions to the original house must be included when calculating this 50% limit.
  6. To be permitted development, any new building must not itself be separate, self-contained, living accommodation and must not have a microwave antenna.
  7. Outbuildings must be single storey with a maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of 4 metres with a dual pitched roof, or 3 metres in any other case.
  8. If the outbuilding is within 2 metres of the property boundary the whole building should not exceed 2.5 metres in height.

You can read my full guide to planning permission for your shed here:

Q: What tools will I require to build a shed from scratch?

A: You won’t need a long list of complex tools to complete this job but here are some essentials that will make your life a lot easier.  I’m a fan of the Dewalt XR range of tools because I can use the same batteries across the range and product quality is second to none.

With any construction project, it’s important to protect yourself from injury. Consider investing in some safety equipment to protect your eyes (goggles), feet (steel toe cap boots) and hands. (Unigloves)

Q: How much does it cost to build a shed in 2023

A: With rising material costs in the UK the expected price of this 12x10ft shed will be in the region of £1300. This should be enough to purchase all the materials covered in the list at the start of this article. You can save a little on the cladding by selecting a cheaper one. Material prices are still changing so this figure might change again. See below for some more top money saving tips.

How to save money on your DIY shed build

Sheds are pretty expensive and you can definitely save a bit of money by building your own from scratch as my own experiment shows, but here are some more ways to cut the cost of building your own shed:

1. DIY

The most obvious way is to do it yourself.  If you believe you have the basic DIY skills and woodwork knowledge required then you’ll save a small fortune completing the job yourself instead of hiring a tradesperson.

2. Use TopCashback

Save money on tools and materials

I’ve been using a cash back site like Topcashback for all my tool and material purchases which has generated me about £950 since joining a few years ago.  That’s quite a reasonable saving bases on purchases I would have made anyway.  Here’s a screen shot of my savings to date:


My wife has also been using Topcashback for all our day-to-day household spending and has generated over £1200.  More than enough for a great holiday for us both.

3. Join the B&Q Club

If you’re not already a member then the B&Q Club is well worth joining, especially if you spend a small fortune in there on a regular basis like I do!  Almost every time I shop and scan the card I receive an email shortly after with a discount code for my next purchase.  Quite often I’ve had £5 off a £50 shop and £10 off a £75 shop.  Nearly every time I shop there I have a discount code to use and the savings really add up.

4. Buy combo pack tools

If you don’t already have the tools for the job and can’t borrow them, then look out for great multipack and combo deals.  For instance, if you need to buy a drill and impact driver then it’s much better to buy them as a set like this Dewalt drill and driver set rather than buying them separately.

5. Use the same brand of power tools

Using the same brand of power tools means you can interchange the battery packs, instead of needing separate ones for each brand of tool.  It makes things way easier and creates less hassle once one is knackered or if one runs out of power.

6. Buy in bulk

Rather than ordering bits and pieces from all over the place, see if it makes more sense to buy in bulk from one retailer and avoid delivery costs.  For example, if you spend more than £300 in one go online on big and bulky items then you’ll get free home delivery from Wickes.

7. Finally, the most important rule of all to save money – measure twice and cut once!

When learning how to build a shed by yourself, researching thoroughly will help prevent making silly mistakes and wasting money.  

I hope you have found this article helpful and good luck if you are building your own custom shed.  They can definitely look a lot better and make you feel more proud! For some more inspiration look at this shed guide which gives you an idea of the different types of sheds available and what they look like.

Turn your shed into a garden office

If you liked this article then you might like this. I’ve recently completed a post about how I extended this shed and insulated it.  I turned my shed into a garden office or garden room to enjoy all year round.

garden office self build

Readers sheds

Chris recently got in touch to show me what he had created off the back of this post and my shed plans download. He’s mixed things up a bit with an 8x12ft footprint and vertical cladding. He’s also up-cycled an old PVC door and windows (for £10 off Marketplace) to give this shed a professional-looking finish. I like how he has added some guttering to make good use of the rainwater for his garden plants. This is a great example of how to build a shed from scratch.


  1. Ben

    Great article. Did your plastic sheeting hold up? The reviews on the B&Q website say about it breaking down quite quickly.

  2. What an excellent article, nice and easy to follow. I’m so tempted to build my own shed now as my existing one is some what disappointing.
    Thanks for your time and effort in writing this.

  3. Hi Ben. Thanks for the great detailed post. Just a quick question. Is the waterproof membrane necessary for this build or can I get away with skipping this part?

    • Thanks Reuben. The waterproof membrane isn’t essential for this build as the structure and shed itself will prevent moisture ingress to a certain degree. I recommend using a waterproof barrier as it will prevent moisture getting into places that it’s not wanted. If you have valuable items in your shed then this will provide an extra layer of protection. For the ultimate protection I would recommend using a breathable membrane which will stop moisture whilst allowing air to circulate through the walls. Hope this helps, Ben.

  4. Hi Ben,

    Great step by step guide, so thanks for taking the time to write and share this.

    Am I right in thinking the loglap cladding is screwed through the waterproof membrane and into the end vertical wall batons and therefore creating a potential water path through the membrane?

    Don’t get me wrong I think it’s an unlikely water path due to the compression between the cladding and membrane and not one I can think how to avoid right now, but just checking I’ve understood your construction correctly.


    • Thanks Dan

      Potentially you are correct but I’ve not had any issues with damp etc. within the building. If you were concerned then you can always add an extra batten to raise the cladding off the membrane.

      Do remember, this is a budget build shed so it’s up to you how far you want to take the construction. It very much depends on what you intend to use the structure for. Mine was intended originally just for shed storage space and it’s perfectly adequate for this.

      Best of luck with your build.

  5. Thank you for this. I built mine last year following your steps and it looks amazing.

  6. Great job Ben. Can I ask how many packs/lengths of cladding you ordered and what length they were. Have followed the link and seems to be coming out at a lot more than expected for my potentially 2.4mx2.4m (2m tall) shed. I’m approximating I’ll need 17 lengths of 2.4m per side plus a bit for the roof apex at the front. If I say 70 lengths this would be over £800. Am I missing something fundamental here ? Been a long day!

    • Hi Gary, Pricing has changed quite a bit with the loglap cladding since I built my shed so it’s going to be different. Prices have nearly doubled in the last year or so! Maybe due to Covid, I don’t know but I’m hoping the price will come down again. That’s partly why I started using the shiplap cladding as it’s cheaper.

    • It is in my shed for the time being. I will eventually lay some laminate flooring or something similar.

  7. Ben, I have read this twice and looked at the photos. Where does the membrane go? It is on the floor in some photos and tucked under the front and then it is just tucked under but not on the actual floor. On the walls does it just stay exposed from the inside?

    • Ideally the membrane will cover the floor and tuck right underneath before you add the wall frames. Then the membrane on the walls will go right down to the floor. (tuck under is desired). The idea is to prevent moisture becoming stagnant under the base.

  8. Ben, great write up and instructions. You have used a membrane on the inside walls. Did you clad this internally also ? What covers the plastic membrane?

    • For the internal of the shed there is nothing but the timber frame. It’s a simple build with only a frame, plastic membrane and the cladding. You can choose to add an internal wall made of ply, OSB or even plasterboard.

  9. Hi Ben,

    Apart from the fence posts, it looks like all the timber you used was untreated. Is that because it was all going to be covered by the cladding and so not exposed to the elements? Did you treat any of the timber with a preservative yourself? E.g. the timbers of the base which sit on the slabs?

    Did you put some kind of flooring on top of the membrane to protect it from the wear of trampling feet?

    • The timber isn’t treated as it should be protected from the elements due to the moisture barrier. It would however be a good idea to treat the wood for extended protection.

  10. hi ben ive just found your site on how to build a shed from scratch and im going to start my one in july as weather should be good the difference is my one is going to be a long shed as opposed to square the overall lengh will be about 8 mtrs dom you think i will be able to get timbers that long or will i have to join them regards chris

  11. Hi, great post. Given me lots to think about.

    On the cladding you mention in comments above that you would do it differently. I’m thinking of making the frame flush with the posts and then boarding over posts and finishing with beading at the corners. This will also allow it to go over the floor at the bottom for extra protection. Having already build yours, any reason why this wouldn’t work?

  12. Hi Ben, thks for the guide, really informative. I’ve started building my shed today based of your spec. So far got the base/floor done. Can I ask what the height is between the top of your wall frame plate to the top of the roof rafters? I’m guessing about 30 cms to allow for the roof osb and the depth of the floor? Also the plate height is 2m not the stud height? Cheers Chris.

    • Hi Chris, I can’t remember exactly but the overall height is 2.4m so I would say you’re pretty close with your calculations.

  13. Hi Ben. Bit of a random question as I am a novice when building things and this is my first large build. Any chance you can tell me what size screws you used and where to use them?

    • Mostly used 80mm screws which are used to join the timber frame. Simply pilot hole drill into the top and bottom rail to secure the upright posts.

  14. Hi this is amazing and what a great find. being a novice with a modicum of DIY experience it fills me with confidence. The one thing that I’m most concerned with is getting it all level as the garden has a small degree of slope. How do you achieve that with those corner pads?

    Also is it worth filling the gaps in between the floor frame with something so I don’t get vermin hiding\living underneath.

    Also is the floorboard treated or weather proofed in any way.

    I may be getting a bit concerned about obviously small things here.

    Thanks again

    • Try levelling your garden by digging out one side and raising the other. You might want to make a raised base for this. Try my decking post to see how this is done.
      If you can fill the gaps then it’s probably a good idea. I however like that I have provided shelter for hedgehogs etc.
      The floorboards are not treated but they are covered with a waterproof barrier which prevents rot.

  15. Hi Ben

    Great write up of your build, very informative.

    I’m thinking of doing something similar – can I ask how your shed been for condensation and damp so far?

    I’m wondering about putting the polythene sheet under the base frame make a difference – it would stop damp rising up from underneath but allow ventilation. Also possible to infill gaps in the frame with insulation perhaps.


    • Thanks Andy. I made sure there was ample ventilation in the eaves which prevents any condensation build up. I’ve also just started building an extension and insulating so will write this up and share at some point.

  16. Hello, great post thank you! What timber did you use for the doorway frame? What timber for the door frames?Any bracing aside form the vertical loglap on the doors?

    • Hi, I would put a diagonal brace on the door frame and then lap on top. This will prevent and warping. The timber is the same as the walls. You might also do the same on the walls depending on whether you will be putting any weight inside.

  17. Hi Ben
    Would you say these build materials are sufficiently robust to use the shed as a bar with a wall mounted tv. I’d intend on putting insulation inside and some interior panelling on top of therefore. Also is the wood pre treated or did you treat after – as the final shed looks painted or stained.

  18. Hi Ben. Great guide. Going to build my own but only 2400mm wide. I’m having trouble working the length of the rafters for my size shed. Did you use any sort of calculation when working out the length of your rafters or could you tell me how long each side of the rafter needs to be. Thanks again. Mark

    • Hi Mark. I just guessed the size so it’s really up to you. There is no precise science behind it but take into consideration the size of the boards for the roof which normally come in 2440x1220mm size. The less cutting the easier. 👍🏼

  19. Really appreciate the time taken to create this guide. I’m just designing a smaller version of your shed and working out what materials I need, so quick question – what timber did you use to make the roof trusses? Was it the cls 63mm x 38mm? Thanks

    • Yes, that’s correct. You can go for a 2:4 if you want it a bit stronger but the 3:4 should be fine with 600mm intervals.

  20. Hi Ben
    Great description. How did you power the light – did you run mains or is it solar/battery?
    If mains – any particular advice on getting power to the shed – ducting etc?
    And did you clad internally or just leave the plastic exposed?

    • Hi Steve. I’ve run mains to the shed. You’ll need a qualified electrician for this or to sign it off. You’ll need an armoured cable in ducting in the ground or along the fence. You’ll need to read into this yourself as it will depend on how far you are going and power requirements. Easier to get an electrician to install.
      No cladding internally yet but will be insulating and plasterboard soon.

  21. Hi Ben, have you altered the materials list at all? A couple of weeks ago it contained hyperlinks to the B&Q products but now it just has a number in each apart from the cladding.

    • Hi, I might have edited but the links should still work for each of the products listed. Try reloading the page to see if that works.

      • Sorted now. It was the Adblocker stopping them from appearing.

  22. Hi Ben,

    I’ve basically followed your instructions to the letter and I’m at the point of finishing the cladding but haven’t chosen how I’m going to paint/stain the cladding.

    Could I ask what you used and what you’d recommend? I’m not looking to change the colour of the cladding much as I like the grain, maybe a few tints darker like on yours.

    I’m thinking a stain but I know they can be tricky and not exactly weather proof.


    • Hi Issac, you could try a clear water protective treatment such as ‘Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment’. It can be expensive but it’s one of the best for clear shed protection. You could also try a decking oil, like ‘Ronseal Ultimate Protection Decking Oil’. 5L should be plenty. Regards, Ben

      • Hi Ben, very informative and helpful write up for building a shed. By far the easiest to follow guide I have found and the one I intend to use when (if) I get around to replacing my shed.

        I’m curious about the edges of the OSB that makes the floor. Due to the 19mm inset you have between the walls and the corner posts, and therefore the flush-fit cladding, the cladding stops before covering this edge. Does this mean the edge of this OSB exposed to the elements?


      • Thanks John.
        I’ve laid a waterproof membrane on the floor to protect the flooring and also allowed a slight overhang for the cladding. Given the chance to do again I would probably do it slightly differently. But not exactly sure how at this point.

  23. Hi Ben, great write up. It’s inspired me to build my own! I have a sticking point. Where my shed will be, the back and one side will be against my red brick house walls. I don’t know whether to sit hard up against the brick or leave my stud wall away from the brick and then if so what to clad it in as it will be out of sight I don’t want to ship lap it.

    • Hi Dan. I guess you could join the shed to the house but you will need to research suitable flashing materials to ensure a water tight fit. The easier option is to build away from the brick walls. the cladding you then use will be dependant on what you are using the shed for. Maybe just a cheaper tongue and groove cladding. I would advise enough space to get down the sides, firstly for building access and secondly maintenance reasons.

      • Cheers Ben, I’m going to build away from it. Wood is bought, frame work begins tomorrow! One question, did you pre drill holes for the 5×75 screws? I’ve read conflicting opinions.

      • I used a countersink bit set to about 30mm depth to drill pilot holes. 👍🏼

  24. Hi Ben , very helpful informed process of building a shed thanks , just one thing what is the height of it please ?

  25. Hi Ben, please can you tell me what you used theCLS 38x63x2400 for ?
    And also C16 3×2. ?

    • Hi Allen, I’ve just updated the post so hopefully it’s a little clearer now. Basically the C16 was used for the base frame main supports and the wall frames top and bottom pieces.

  26. Hi Ben, your shed is 360 x 300cm But in the shopping list the longest wood you list is 2400mm. Did you have to join the wood for base and walls? If so, how did you do it?

    • Hi Mantas, if you check again you will see that I have in fact used 2.4m, 3m and 3.6m 3×2 timber.

  27. Hi Ben What wood material did you use for the outside of your shed? I’ve read through but, I don’t see what type of wood or brand it is and if this is tongue and groove. My husband has built our shed and we are deciding on the outside covering. We live in Ontario, Canada. Thank you, Deborah

    • Hi Deborah. It’s called loglap timber cladding and comes in a number of different sizes. It’s a type of tongue and groove with rounded sides. Not sure if this product is available in Canada

    • Hi, it’s not secured to the floor itself. The walls and roof rafters support these posts to prevent them from moving.

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