How to Build a Stud Wall or Partitioning Wall

Building a stud wall is a simple enough job and can benefit your property in many ways. I recently built a stud wall in my bedroom to help separate our en-suite. This gave us greater privacy when using the toilet and showering. You’ll see from the pictures below that there was already half a wall partition but we felt like a full partition and door would be much better. That’s why I built my own partitioning wall with a door. In this article, I’ll show you step-by-step how I accomplished this. I built everything myself, with the exception of the plastering which I prefer to leave to an experienced plasterer.

What is a stud wall?

A stud wall is essentially a framework made of timber or metal studs that are anchored to the floor, ceiling and walls. This framework is subsequently enclosed or covered with plasterboard.

You might be building a stud wall to create a new room or to divide an existing one, either way, this guide will show you how to create a straight, sturdy wall that will look like it’s always been there.

Stud walls can be made up of wooden timbers or metal stud wall framing kits. In my example, I have used 89 x 36mm timbers (AKA 100x50mm or 3×2) The width of 89mm, the 12.5mm plasterboard and the covering of plaster will make up the total thickness of the wall.

Quick tip – Some retailers might list these timbers as 100x50mm and CLS studwork timber (CLS kiln dried studwork timber). They are the same as the 89x36mm timbers.

In my example, I am extending an existing stud wall to complete an enclosed en-suite in my bedroom. Here is a before and after image.

Step-by-Step Stud Wall Build Guide

To get started, plan out your wall route. Measure carefully to ensure everything will fit in the space you have allocated. For me, I just needed to ensure the wall lined up with the existing wall.

Step 1 – Mark out the horizontal wall location

• Using a plumb line, laser level or large spirit level, mark on the wall the location of the horizontal timber. The plumb line will ensure the wall is perfectly straight.
• Mark a pencil line from the top to the bottom where the timber will be located.
• Measure the height of the wall which in most cases will be about 2.4m (2400mm).

Step 2 – Mark out the floor and ceiling wall locations

• Using a piece of timber or another long straight edge, mark out the locations of the ceiling and floor locations.
• You can also use a chalk line tool to make a perfectly straight chalk line between two points.

Step 3 – Measure and mark out the doorway

• At this point, it’s time to build and lift the door frame into place.
• It’s important to measure the gap at the top and match it at the bottom. You can fix a small piece of timber at the correct width as shown in the image.
• Another small piece of timber can be fixed at a 45 degree angle to square up the frame. It’s very important to ensure the frame is completely square.
• Measure for the timbers to fit around the door frame.

Step 4 – Measure and cut the timber frame

With the walls marked out, it’s time to measure and cut the timber.

• Starting with the wall, I cut a piece that would fit from the floor to the ceiling.
  • I didn’t have a choice of placement so I had to fix the piece to the wall with screws and rawl plugs.
  • If possible, identify where an existing stud is within the wall you are joining to. Secure the new stud so that it joins to the existing wall stud for optimal strength.
• Measure and cut the ceiling timber length.
  • This piece can be secured to the ceiling with screws and rawl plugs.
  • Whilst holding the ceiling piece in place, use a wood drill bit that is just long enough to penetrate the wood and drill several holes through the wood so that it marks the ceiling.
  • Then drill the ceiling plasterboard with a masonry drill bit.
  • Insert a rawl plug in each point and secure the wood to the ceiling.
• Measure and cut the timber for the floor. Screws can be used to secure the timber to the floor. (assuming it is wood.)
• Measure and cut the timber pieces for the doorway. When fixing the timbers for the doorway, check the levels and dimensions to ensure it is perfectly squared. Use a spirit level and measure the lengths diagonally from corner to corner.

When building a full wall, cut the vertical timbers and space them evenly. The typical spacing for stud walls is either 400mm or 600mm in the center. The choice between these two spacings depends on various factors, including the structural requirements, building codes, and the type of construction project.

• 400mm on Center: This spacing is often preferred for walls that need to support heavy loads or require enhanced structural stability. It provides more studs within a given length, distributing the load more evenly and reducing the risk of sagging or other structural issues.
• 600mm on Center: This spacing is more common in residential construction where the loads are typically lighter. It can be a cost-effective option, requiring fewer studs and materials, while still meeting building code requirements.

Adding noggins

Noggins are essential for stud wall construction. They provide crucial horizontal bracing between vertical studs, enhancing the wall structure’s overall stability and strength.

• Noggins can be measured and cut to fit exactly between the vertical studs. These should be located roughly halfway up the partitioning wall.
• Secure noggins in place from either side of the stud with 60mm screws.
• Noggins can be staggered which makes securing them in place easier.

Step 5 – Securing the door frame

Now that the timber frame has been secured into place we can now secure the door frame to the stud wall.

• The door frame can be fixed to the stud wall using 50mm thin screws (4mm).
• Ensure they recess into the frame so they can be filled for a smooth finish.
• Place screws in pairs and spaced 450mm apart, from the top to the bottom and along the top.
• Check the frame is still plumb, level and straight.
• Fill the screw heads with a wood filler. The door frame will be painted later to hide these imperfections.

We will return to the rest of the door frame once the plasterboard has been fitted.

Step 6 – Adding the plasterboard

With the timber frame securely fitted, we can now move onto the plasterboard. Plasterboard sheets come in a standard size of 1220×2440 (8ft x 4ft). You can buy a tapered edge or a square edge plasterboard. For my project, I’m using a square edge board as it’s only a small area. For larger walls, it’s worth considering a tapered edge board. You can read more here about which board is best for your project.

• Measure the wall height. In most cases, this will be close to 2.4m.
• Cut the plasterboard to size using a utility knife. (Stanley knife)
• For doorways, measure and cut out to fit snuggly around the door frame
• The plasterboard can be secured to the timber frame using 32mm drywall screws. Space screws about 200mm apart and cover the entire board.

Before completing both sides of the wall, you may want to add a soundproofing material for added privacy. If not, you can continue to board both sides of the wall.

Step 7 – Soundproofing your wall

You can skip this section if you have no requirement to soundproof your stud wall.

Soundproofing your wall provides you with both thermal and acoustic qualities. Materials like Rockwool RW45 can help dampen sound vibrations penetrating the walls. It also provides an additional barrier to retaining warmth within a room.

• These acoustic slabs are easily cut to size and placed within the void of the stud wall.
• Cut using a normal bread knife
• Ensure the wall is filled with no gaps

Step 8 – Skimming the walls with plaster

For our project, we decided to have the walls skimmed by a professional. I didn’t fancy doing this job myself due to a lack of experience. We also wanted a perfect finish so it was best to have someone who knows their stuff for this part of the project.

Step 9 – Painting the wall

Painting can only occur once the plaster has dried, which can take up to 1 week.

• The first layer of paint is a mixture of 50/50 white emulsion and water.
• Once dry (3 hours) another layer of 75/25 white emulsion and water is applied.
• The wall can be completed with one or two layers of white emulsion paint.

Step 10 – Finishing the door frame

To finish the door frame I added the door stops and architrave, painted and fitted the door.

• Measure and cut the door stop timber. This can be fitted to the frame with lost head nails placed every 100mm.
• Measure and cut the architrave. this should be cut at 45 degree angles at the top joining sections. Again, this can be attached using lost head nails.

Finishing touches

To finish my project I also completed the missing coving, filled any small gaps with caulk and painted over everything for a clean final look. I also fitted the missing pieces of skirting and tested the door opened and closed securely.

Conclusion

Building a stud wall is a straightforward yet impactful DIY project, as demonstrated in my recent bedroom renovation. By constructing a full partition with a door, I aimed to enhance privacy, a decision validated by the noticeable improvement in daily functionality.

This guide provides a detailed, no-nonsense walkthrough of the process. From meticulous planning and material selection to the incorporation of a doorway, each step is outlined with practicality in mind. The addition of noggins between vertical studs contributes to the wall’s structural integrity.

While I opted for professional plastering, the core construction, including securing the timber frame, adding plasterboard, and considering soundproofing, can be accomplished through DIY efforts. The final touches, such as door stops, architrave, coving, and skirting, complete the project.

Whether you’re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or a novice, this guide offers insights for successful stud wall construction. Transform your spaces efficiently, unlocking the potential for a more functional and aesthetically pleasing living environment.

FAQs

Can I build a stud wall myself?

If you have the willingness to create and have access to some basic tools, it’s not too difficult to build your own stud wall or partitioning wall. You should however leave it to the professionals when a structural wall is required. These walls will likely need to be signed off with building regulations.

How thick does a stud wall have to be?

The thickness of a stud wall can vary depending on the materials used and the intended purpose of the wall. However, a standard stud wall, comprising timber or metal studs and covered with plasterboard on both sides, typically has a total thickness of around 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).

The individual components contribute to this overall thickness:

1. Timber or Metal Studs: Commonly, these are 3 inches by 2 inches (76 mm by 38 mm) timber studs, which are also referred to as 89 x 36mm.
2. Plasterboard: Each side of the wall is covered with plasterboard, typically 0.5 inches (12.5 mm) thick. Therefore, both sides combined add 1 inch (25 mm) to the overall thickness.

It’s important to note that variations can occur based on specific construction requirements, building codes, or the need for additional insulation. In some cases, thicker stud walls may be necessary, especially in situations where enhanced structural support or better insulation is desired. Always check local building codes and regulations to ensure compliance with thickness and other construction standards in your area.

Do you need building regs for a stud wall?

Generally, you do not need building regulations approval to construct a non-load-bearing stud partition wall. If you are creating a wall that will support the building, you’ll likely need approval.

What tools do you need to build a stud wall?

I would suggest the following tools to make this job easy and leave a good finish:

• Mitre saw (electric or standard)
• Tape measure and pencil
• Hand saw
• Drill driver and impact driver

What timber to use for stud wall UK?

You will need a 100mm x 50mm timber. These are also listed as 89mm x 36mm timbers and 3×2 inch timbers.

How far apart should Noggins be in stud wall?

When building a full wall, cut the vertical timbers and space them evenly. The typical spacing for stud walls is either 400mm or 600mm in the center. The choice between these two spacings depends on various factors, including the structural requirements, building codes, and the type of construction project.

• 400mm on Center: This spacing is often preferred for walls that need to support heavy loads or require enhanced structural stability. It provides more studs within a given length, distributing the load more evenly and reducing the risk of sagging or other structural issues.
• 600mm on Center: This spacing is more common in residential construction where the loads are typically lighter. It can be a cost-effective option, requiring fewer studs and materials, while still meeting building code requirements.

Do you nail or screw Noggins?

I personally screw in my noggins but you could equally use 50mm nails

Further Reading