How to Make an Industrial Rustic Scaffold Board Dining Table and Bench

Crafting furniture using reclaimed scaffold boards presents a rewarding opportunity, yielding pieces that exude a contemporary, modern allure. An exemplar of this craft is the scaffold board dining table and bench set, characterised by an industrial-rustic aesthetic. Drawing inspiration from the 1990s trend of repurposing New York warehouse elements, you too can fashion a furniture piece destined to endure for generations, all the while significantly mitigating your ecological footprint. The scaffold board table top and steel legs seamlessly harmonise with a diverse range of interior design motifs, aligning perfectly with prevailing trends.

I built the table and bench in this guide for my own dining room, and we’re still using it daily six years on. Further down, I’ve added a proper update on how it’s held up, since that’s the question I get asked most.

I’ve also built a rustic wood dining table from reclaimed timbers, as you can see in another article. It has a very similar look and feel to this scaffold board dining table, but it’s thicker and heavier. The same techniques described in this article can also be applied to make a scaffold board desk or a scaffold board workbench.

Here is an example of the finished scaffold board table and bench set that I’ll be describing in detail. It measures 180cm x 88cm and is 75cm tall (roughly the standard height of a dining table — they normally range between 74 and 76cm tall, but I find 75cm the most comfortable for the whole family). The benches measure 180cm x 36cm and 45cm tall.

Materials List

• Used scaffold boards – (see below for sourcing boards)
• Steel legs
• No 20 biscuits (not the kind found in your kitchen)
• Wood glue
• Wood stain, varnish or oil (I prefer this varnish from Ronseal)

Tool list

• Table saw (optional)
• Circular saw (if no table saw)
• Biscuit jointer
• Electric plane (optional)
• Manual plane
• Sash clamps (4 x 900mm)
• F-clamps (4 x 200mm)
• Moisture meter
• Orbital sander (or two)
• Belt sander (optional)
• Orbital sander pads 60, 80, 120 and 240 grit
• Sanding foam pads 180 0r 240 grit
• Drill driver (and bits)
• Impact driver (optional)
• Dust extractor or vaccum
• Tape measure
• Set square or rafters square
• Pencil

Here are a few biscuit jointers. I tend to avoid the cheaper tools but if you’re just making the one dining set you should be ok.

Step-by-step How to Make a Scaffold Board Table

To start, you’ll need to source your materials. You’ll need scaffold boards for the table and bench top, while for the legs you’ll need some welding knowledge or know someone who can make these for you. I don’t make the legs myself, but read on for where to find some.

Step 1: Sourcing Materials

So where do you find used scaffold boards? Scaffold companies normally have plenty, but the trouble is not all of them want to sell, as boards can be reused for other jobs. The trick is finding a company willing to sell a few. Ring around local scaffold companies to ask, or you might get lucky and find one that just gives you some. Keep trying.

If this fails, search eBay shops with free delivery, or you might get lucky and find a local shop.

You can also check Facebook Marketplace and sites like Gumtree, as there are always some listed. Expect to pay about £10 for a 10ft used board. You’ll need 4 boards for a table top and 2 boards for one bench.

I also found this great company based in Somerset, which has dry boards and offers a range of services like sanding and cutting to size. The Scaff Shop. They are a little more expensive, but if you want to save time, then it’s worth a go.

Step 2: Scaffold Board Moisture Levels

Important: check your boards for moisture content. High moisture content will lead to cracking, twisting, cupping and bending once the boards are exposed to indoor temperatures and humidity, and the boards will slowly shrink as they dry out. Use a moisture meter to check a board before purchase if you can. The ideal moisture level is between 4% and 12%.

Anything higher than this and you’ll need to dry the boards before working with them. The best way to do this is in a wood kiln, but most people won’t have one, so the alternative is to dry them in your house. The best environment to do this would be in a house with the central heating on in a room with a dehumidifier running.

Keep testing the wood until the moister is down to the correct level. (4% – 12%)

Step 3. Steel Industrial-style Legs

While your wood dries, it’s a good time to think about your steel legs. I buy mine from a local metalworker who currently makes metal bed frames for campervan conversions; luckily, I’m friends with him, so he’s happy to make legs to my desired size. You can call around local metalworkers, or try Etsy, which is a great source of metal legs.

If you want your legs painted, get them powder coated rather than spray painted, as this is the most durable finish. Expect to pay between £75–£350 for a pair of table legs and £50–£150 for a pair of bench legs.

Check out my extensive guide to finding the best metal table legs here:

Step 4. Cutting the Scaffold Boards

Now back to your wood. Normally the first action I take is to cut the boards to length. To do this I use my sliding mitre saw which I replaced the blade with a 80 tooth wood cutting blade. These blades are specifically designed for cross cutting wood with a clean finish.

Standard multi-purpose blades that come with mitre saws leave a rough cut, meaning more sanding for you. If you’re investing in a new mitre saw for this project, make sure it has a cut depth of at least 230mm. Most scaffold boards are about 225mm wide and 37mm thick.

Step 5. The Sanding Process

This is normally the longest, most boring part of the build, but be patient. Used scaffold boards are usually splattered with building materials, which you can scrape off with a wallpaper scraper or chisel. Sanding can be done before or after joining the boards.

Manual sanding will take forever, so invest in an orbital or belt sander. A belt sander will speed things up greatly. Start with 60 or 80 grit paper to clean off years of cement, plaster and other debris.

I’ve used two orbital sanders and a dust extraction unit to avoid breathing in dust. If you have a large workshop, a proper dust extraction system is worth it; for a home setup, a smaller unit like mine is fine.

The boards don’t need to be sanded down to bare wood. Leave some of that rustic patina for the true industrial look. Once done, repeat with 120-grit paper, manually removing any remaining splinters or splits. Sand edges to leave nice rounded corners; there’s a little more sanding later, but for now let’s move on to jointing.

Step 6. How to Join Scaffold Boards Together for a Table Top

With the majority of sanding out of the way, it’s time to think about jointing your boards. Prepare the edges using a planer. Each edge needs to be clean, smooth and straight, since these edges will be glued together to form a seal between boards. A manual plane works, but an electric one is much quicker.

Starting with the table top, line 4 boards up against each other and check the join. Make small adjustments with your planer until you’re happy, then number the boards (or draw a triangle across the top) so you know which board goes where if they get mixed up.

Cutting the Boards for the Bench

The bench uses the same boards, but two joined boards would be too wide, so each is ripped down to 180mm wide, giving a bench top of around 360mm. A table saw is the quickest, easiest and most accurate way to do this; a circular saw works if you don’t have one. Once cut, line the boards up to check the fit, and plane or sand the edges if needed.

Step 7. The Joining Process

For this part, you’ll need large sash clamps, a biscuit jointer, biscuits, and wood glue.

Lay all the boards out flat, lined up neatly, and mark 120mm in from each end where the boards join, then another mark halfway down between each board. The biscuit jointer slices into the side of the wood to leave a hole for a biscuit to insert into. This step matters for accuracy. It ensures your boards line up nicely, giving a level table top. Biscuit joins don’t add strength; they’re purely for alignment.

Line up the boards with two sash clamps underneath and glue. Apply an even layer of wood glue along the full length of the first board, smoothing it out with a lollipop stick or similar.

Insert your biscuits and push them into the next board, repeating until all 4 boards are lined up on the clamps. Slowly tighten the first two clamps until the boards are close together. Don’t over-tighten at this point.

Lay two thick pieces of wood at each end and tighten F-clamps to keep the top flat, then attach two more clamps to the top middle and tighten as much as possible. I insert pieces of wood to protect the sides of the table from clamp damage.

Leave the table top to dry. Wood glue sets quickly, but I leave it at least 12 hours before moving on, cleaning off excess glue before it dries. Repeat the same jointing process for the bench using the two cut-down boards.

Step 8. Filling and Sanding

A reclaimed wood scaffold board table works better when the surface is smooth and flat. Filling gaps, dents, and cuts with wood filler makes it easier to clean and maintain, which matters since this table is going to see daily use for years.

Once the clamps are off, the table top should be strong enough to flip over. For a smooth finish, fill any holes with wood filler using a putty knife or scraper, then sand down to 120 grit once dry. Don’t worry about a perfect colour match on the filler. It adds character.

You may want to support the 4 boards with a strip of wood underneath at each end. I use off-cuts from the bench, cut at a 50-degree angle spanning side to side. This isn’t always necessary, but it adds strength to the table top.

A final sanding with 240-grit gives a super smooth finish and prepares the surface for stain and oil.

Step 9. Finishing and Staining Scaffold Boards

I tend to use either a Ronseal interior varnish stain or Osmo oil tints to colour and protect my scaffold board furniture. Ronseal varnish gives a slightly stronger finish, but both work well. Apply 2–3 coats, using a standard 40–50mm paintbrush, always following the grain. Allow around 2 hours between coats, or check the manufacturer’s guidelines. The tables pictured here use Ronseal Interior Varnish in French Oak.

Rub down with a fine-grit sanding foam block between each layer for a super smooth finish.

Best stain for scaffold boards: I love using Ronseal Interior Varnish because it leaves a really strong finish that won’t need to be touched again for many years. Osmo Oil is also a great choice as it soaks into the wood, but you’ll need to reapply every two years or so.

The Ronseal varnish comes in gloss, satin and matt finishes. The French Oak I used is a satin finish, which gives a slight shine. Opt for matt if you’re after a dull finish.

How to make scaffold boards look like oak: a French Oak or Golden Oak tinted varnish or oil, applied in 2–3 thin coats, brings out a warm oak-like tone in scaffold board wood without hiding the grain. This is the shade used throughout this build.

Now fit the legs to the table top. This should be straightforward, lining up your desired location and screwing in with a drill-driver or impact driver. Consider the width of your chairs and whether you want to seat people at either end. To allow enough leg room, I mount the legs about 28cm in.

6 years on: how has our scaffold board dining table held up?

This table and bench set has been our everyday family dining table since I built it, and it’s the section I get asked about most, so here’s a proper update rather than a one-line mention.

• Still strong and sturdy – no wobble, no movement in the joints, nothing that’s needed re-tightening or repair.
• Very functional – it’s a genuine daily-use dining table and bench, not a showpiece.
• No reapplied varnish in 6 years – the original Ronseal finish is still doing its job. I haven’t needed to touch it up once.
• Easy to clean – spills, crumbs and everyday family mess wipe off without any trouble.
• Tough and durable – the surface has shrugged off six years of daily use without any real signs of wear.
• Used daily – this isn’t a table that comes out for best. It’s in use every day, multiple times a day.
• Still fits our decor – our style at home has changed a fair bit over six years, and the table has moved with it rather than looking dated.

If you’re weighing up whether scaffold board furniture is a durable, low-maintenance choice for a real family dining table, this is about as honest a long-term test as you’ll get: six years of daily meals, kids, and general family life, with zero maintenance beyond normal cleaning.

FAQs

How long does scaffold board furniture last? Well-dried, well-finished scaffold board furniture used indoors can easily last well over a decade. Our own table and bench are six years in with daily use and show no signs of slowing down.

Is scaffold board furniture durable? Yes. Scaffold boards are designed to withstand years of outdoor building site use before they’re even repurposed, so once dried, cleaned and finished properly, they hold up extremely well as furniture.

Do you need to revarnish scaffold board furniture every year? Not necessarily for indoor pieces. Our table hasn’t needed a fresh coat of varnish in the six years since it was built. Outdoor scaffold board furniture will need more frequent reapplication, since it’s exposed to the weather. If using stains or oils, you may need to reapply coats every two years or so, depending on how often the table is used.

Is a scaffold board table easy to clean? Yes. A properly varnished or oiled surface wipes clean easily and copes well with everyday spills and family use.

Are scaffold boards suitable for outdoor use? Yes, as long as the steel legs are properly powder coated with no bare steel exposed (otherwise they’ll rust quickly), and the boards themselves are protected with a suitable outdoor wood finish, such as a decking oil or a UV-protection oil. Even then, I’d still recommend covering or storing an outdoor scaffold board table over winter.

Is scaffold board furniture any good? Making furniture from reclaimed material is always a bit of a gamble, and scaffold boards are no exception. You need to pick decent boards, stored dry, without bends or twists. But scaffold boards are built to survive years outdoors on building sites, so good boards, properly dried, make furniture that lasts. Ours has been in daily use for six years and still looks as good as the day it was built.

Where can I find scaffold board table and bench plans? This guide covers the full build, but if you’d rather work from a set of detailed plans with cut lists and drawings, check the plans available in the Wood Create shop for step-by-step measurements you can follow board by board.

Using Alternative Woods for Your Projects

If you’re looking for a less rustic finish on your dining table then you could consider using a different type of wood. For example, I have also made amazing dining tables and desks from American white oak and walnut. The finish is cleaner as they are made from hardwood, and will be much more durable than a scaffold board table. Here are a couple of my projects.

I’ve recently collected some Iroko wood from a local wood store for my next project. Using this company has helped me simplify the build massively, as they cut everything to size. This takes away a lot of time and effort from me so I can stay focused on the build and overall design.

Save Money on your Scaffold Board Table Project

My wife and I have been using Topcashback now for a few years and have generated over £2200 on all our everyday spending. I’ve generated about £950 on my own projects and work costs, so it’s worth taking a look. We both installed the Topcashback web browser, which notifies us when we go onto an eligible site so we never miss a cashback offer.

Here’s a screen shot of my savings to date:

If you have any questions or want to leave a comment about this rustic dining table please do so below.

Conclusion

Delving into the art of crafting with scaffold boards opens a world of creative possibilities. The process of making a scaffold board table, like the one shown here with its rustic-industrial charm, offers a twofold reward. Unique furniture and a genuinely eco-conscious choice. Six years of daily use in our own home has proven the point: with good boards, proper drying, and a decent finish, a scaffold board dining table and bench isn’t just a good-looking industrial piece.I it’s a durable, low-maintenance table built for real family life.

More Scaffold Board Furniture

Here are a couple more of my favourite scaffold board projects similar to the industrial rustic dining table.

Did you like this scaffold board table? Have you tried making your own? Feel free to leave a comment below.

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