How to Build a Media Wall with TV and Fireplace (Step-by-Step)

A media wall combines your TV and fireplace into a single built-in feature wall that looks like a chimney breast. Done well, it tidies away cables, creates a clean focal point, and genuinely transforms a living room.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to build one from scratch, including the frame, apertures, plasterboard, and fittings. I built this one for a customer, so everything here comes from an actual build, not theory. You’ll get real measurements, a full materials list with costs, and the option to grab my Media Wall Plans PDF, which includes detailed diagrams, a cut list, and an interactive 3D model.

What is a Media Wall?

A media wall is a timber-framed partition built against an existing wall to house a TV, an electric fireplace, and any other media equipment. It sits proud of the wall, typically 25cm deep, and is clad in plasterboard and plastered to give a clean, built-in finish. The result looks like a chimney breast but is built entirely from scratch.

Planning Your Media Wall

What Size Should a Media Wall Be?

There’s no fixed standard, but many media walls run the full width of the wall or are sized to match the proportions of the room. Common widths are between 2.4m and 3.6m, and height is typically ceiling height or a step-down design with a raised central section.

The two dimensions that actually matter at the planning stage are depth and aperture sizes, because these are dictated by your specific TV and fireplace, not personal preference.

What Depth Does a Media Wall Need to Be?

Most media walls are built at 25cm deep, which is enough to recess an electric fireplace and mount a TV on a swing-arm bracket without the wall eating too much into the room. 30cm is also common if your fireplace is deeper than average.

To confirm the minimum depth for your build, add up:

• The depth of your TV
• The depth of your mounting bracket and fixings
• A 20mm backing board (used to give the TV bracket a solid fixing point)

That total is your minimum. I’d always add a centimetre or two of clearance on top of that.

Top tip: Buy your TV, mounting bracket, and fireplace before you start. You cannot accurately size the wall until you have those measurements in hand.

Here’s the fireplace we used for this build.

I recommend using a dual-arm TV mounting bracket for this job as it helps keep the TV straight and level, with minimal flex. Here’s the one we used.

How Much Does It Cost to Build a Media Wall? (2026)

Excluding the TV and fireplace, expect to pay around £450 in materials for a standard media wall build. That includes timber, plasterboard, fixings, and roughly £150-200 for a plasterer. Labour, if you’re hiring someone to build it, adds roughly £300 for a 10-hour job.

The TV and fireplace will typically add another £800-1,200, depending on what you choose.

How Long Does a Media Wall Take to Build?

The timber frame, apertures, and plasterboard take around 8-10 hours for an experienced DIYer or a chippy working solo. Plastering adds time, depending on drying, typically a day’s work for the plasterer plus 24-48 hours drying before painting.

Allow a full weekend for the build if you’re doing it yourself, or two days if you’re splitting the timber work and plastering across separate visits.

Planning Your Layout and Appliance Positions

Before cutting anything, sketch out your design with the actual measurements of your TV and fireplace. The sketch below is what my customer drew before we started. It covers the overall width and height, the fireplace and TV aperture positions, and the depth.

Here’s a quick render of my plan before we started the build.

Before committing to a layout, it’s worth thinking through the design decisions that will affect how the finished wall looks. TV height, proportions, shelf placement, and style, amongst a number of other media wall design ideas. I cover all of that in my media wall design guide.

What Timber Do You Need for a Media Wall?

Use CLS C16 studwork timber at 50mm x 75mm (finished size 38x63mm). This is standard stud wall timber and is the right size for a 25cm-deep media wall when combined with the frame depth. Buy 2.4m lengths; you’ll need around 12 for a standard build.

Avoid using regularised carcassing timber here. CLS is straighter and easier to work with for this type of build.

Read my guide on how to select the perfect fireplace for your media wall before committing to one. The dimensions of the fireplace dictate the aperture size, and getting this wrong at the planning stage is an expensive mistake.

Tools and Materials

Here’s a list of tools I’ve used for this media wall with a few recommendations.

Tool	Recommendation
Combi drill and driver set	Dewalt DCK266P2T Brushless twin pack 18v combi drill and impact driver
Mitre saw / chop saw	Evolution R255MS+ compound mitre saw 240v
Kreg Jig and clamp	Kreg Jig R3 Pocket hole set and Clamp
3D laser level	LasGoo 3D self-levelling green laser
Spirit level (large)	OX Pro Level magnetic 600mm
Hammer	Starwork 20oz hammer with comfort grip
Utility Knife	Foldable Pocket Knife
Pencil	Tracer Pro Series aluminium construction pencil
Tape Measure	Stanley 8m pocket tape measure

Here’s a list of materials used on this build.

Material	Quantity	Cost
CLS studwork C16 2.4m – 50mm x 75mm (finished size 38x63mm)	12	£38
Plasterboard 12.5mm – 2440mm x 1220mm	2	£27
70mm x 4m wood screws – pack of 160	1	£23
38mm Drywall screws – pack of 200	1	£14
40mm x 4mm wood screws – pack of 250	1	£8.50
Red Rawlplugs – pack of 96	1	£3
Skirting board (to match your own)	1	~£20
Paint of your choice – 2.5L	1	~£25
Hiring a plasterer	1	£100-200
TV wall mounting bracket dual arm	1	£45
TV Freeview Box mounting kit	1	£8

Media Wall Step-by-Step Build Instructions

Let’s jump into this build with the first task, removing the existing skirting board.

Step 1. Remove the Existing Skirting Board

Using a utility knife, scraper, claw hammer or a skirting board removal tool, gently pry the skirting board away from the wall. Start by scoring the top of the skirting board, where it meets the wall, with a utility knife. This prevents the caulk from ripping off the paint and makes it easier to insert the removal tool.

Step 2. Building the Outer Frame

For this part, we will use the C16 timber.

Step 2.1 – The Floor Frame

• Measure, cut and join three pieces to form the base of the frame
• Place the frame on the floor in your desired location
• Drill holes in the floor, insert Rawlplugs and screw the frame to the floor (fix in four points)

TOP TIP: You can build the frame directly onto any existing hard flooring. If you have carpets or vinyl flooring, then it’s a good idea to cut this out before you start. You can use a utility knife to cut around the C16 timber frame.

Step 2.2 – The Wall Frame

Now it’s time to secure the timber pieces to the wall.

• Measure and cut two pieces to fit either side of the frame.
• These pieces can be secured to the wall by drilling holes and securing Rawlplugs. Use a spirit level to ensure they are perfectly lined up.
• I used the 70mm screws to fix these pieces in place.

TOP TIP: Hold the vertical piece against the wall and adjust it using a spirit level until it’s perfect. Then drill the four holes with a wooden drill bit that is just long enough to go through the wood and mark the wall. You can then remove the timber and drill the wall in the marked locations to insert the Rawlplugs. I find that a 6mm masonry drill bit is the perfect size for these red Rawlplugs.

Consider a laser level. You might also consider a laser level for aligning your timbers. A laser level can help you position each piece without the need for a spare set of hands. They are highly accurate and simplify the build process.

Step 2.3 – Complete the Outer Frame

Now we can complete the rest of the outer frame before building the individual sections.

• Measure and cut the other vertical wall piece and secure in place as above.
• Measure and cut two vertical front pieces and the three top pieces. (See below image)
• Secure these pieces to the frame. You can use a pocket hole system to secure the top two shorter pieces to the vertical wall pieces.

TOP TIP: Pocket hole jigs are a great way of securing two pieces of wood together when access is not possible from the other side of the wood. I’ve used a Kreg Jig and clamp to accomplish this. You can find the Kreg Jig and Kreg Clamp here:

Step 3. Building the Apertures (or openings) for the Appliances

The first opening that we need to make is that of the fireplace. This opening can be made ~3mm wider than the actual unit. That will give us a little wiggle room to ensure the fireplace fits in the gap nicely.

Step 3.1 – The Fireplace Aperture

• Measure the fireplace width and height. Add 3mm to each side. In my example, the fire place measures 460mm x 1230mm. Therefore I will be making the aperture 466mm x 1236mm.
• Measure the height from the floor as to where the bottom of the fireplace will sit and mark either side of the frame.
• Measure the thickness of the timber and cut two upstanding support pieces and the support piece.
• The pieces can be secured in place from the sides and pocket holes can be drilled to secure to the base timber.

• Now measure 466mm and mark the side pieces as to the height of the fireplace.
• Secure a cross piece in place at either side and cut two side support pieces.
• Measure the width of the fireplace and secure the two side supports in place. 1236mm.
• Measure two pieces to support the top frame piece as pictured.

• Measure the distance from the top of the fireplace to the bottom of the TV opening. In this case we decided on 190mm.
• Mark either side of the frame and cut the horizontal piece and two upward support pieces as pictured above.

Step 3.2 – The TV Aperture

This opening differs in that it will be finished on the inner edges as pictured here:

To calculate the aperture for the TV there are a few distances we need to be aware of.

1. The total TV width and height. 1240mm x 710mm
2. The thickness of the plasterboard. 12.5mm (X2) = 25
3. The thickness of the plaster. ~5mm (X2) = 10
4. Allowance for a small gap around the TV once in place. ~10mm (X2) = 20

So the height of the TV aperture needs to be 710 + 25 + 10 + 20 = 765mm

The width of the TV aperture needs to be 1240 + 25 + 10 + 20 = 1295mm

Now we can complete the opening timber frame as per the above dimensions.

I’ve added centre pieces of timber to allow for fixing the plasterboard. This is because a single sheet of plasterboard isn’t wide enough to cover the front of this wall. That’s why I added two pieces of plasterboard.

I’ve also added some side supports to strengthen the whole frame.

Step 4. Finishing the Frame Ready for Plasterboard

For some added support around the TV aperture, I added some pieces of timber in the corners so that I could easily secure the plasterboard in place.

Step 5. Adding the Plasterboard Sheets

The plasterboard can now be cut and secured to the frame. To achieve this I:

• I held a piece of plasterboard against the frame and marked the two apertures from inside the frame. The plasterboard was held against the centre point of the wall.
• Cut the plasterboard using a sharp utility knife. The off-cuts can be used for the sides so don’t throw these away.

• The plasterboard can be secured in place using the 38mm drywall screws. Try spacing them out by about 250mm as above image.
• Repeat this process for all sides.

We can now finish the inner sections of the TV aperture. For this, we can use all the off-cuts from the openings.

Step 6. Over to the Plasterer

With all the plasterboard securely fixed to the timber frame, it’s time to call in the experts to complete the plastering. They will be able to accomplish a tidy finish with beading around all the edges.

You could try this part yourself, but I prefer to leave this to the professionals. It takes time and patience to plaster to a good level.

I didn’t manage to get a picture of the plaster at work, but this is the finished wall once painted.

You can just make out the finished sides of the TV aperture and the unfinished aperture for the fireplace.

Step 7. Fitting the TV and Fireplace

Step 7.1 – Fitting the Fireplace

The fireplace is the easy part. This simply slides into the opening and is secured to the timber frame from the inside panels. Four screws are all it takes, and the outer frame simply sticks (with magnets) to the front to hide the untidy plastered finish.

See the full fireplace installation instructions here:

Step 7.2 – Fitting the TV

The slightly complicated part is fitting the TV in exactly the right place. The TV needs to be mounted on a swinging arm to allow easy access.

Before I started this I wanted to ensure the TV mounting bracket had a good solid backing to fix to. I decided to fix a 35mm piece of scaffold board to the wall first. (alternatively use a piece of 22mm plywood). This was secured to the wall in 10 locations.

• Cut a piece of scaffold board roughly 700mm in length
• Mark out roughly where the bracket will be fixed on the wall. To do this, lay the TV flat on the floor (on a soft blanket to avoid scratching the screen) and fit the mounting bracket. Now measure from the top of the screen to the top of the bracket. This will indicate where the bracket will sit on the wall.
• Hold the scaffold board on the wall so there is plenty of room for the bracket to fix to the board.
• Whilst holding the scaff board on the wall, drill 10 pilot holes into the board so that the drill bit just reaches the wall and mark it. Start with the four corners and then in 6 other equally spaced locations around the board.
• Drill 6mm holes into the wall and insert 10 red Rawlplugs.
• Now secure the board to the wall using 70mm screws

TOP TIPS:

• Check the wall for live cables before drilling. I use a Bosch Truvo wall stud and cable detector, which is a great piece of kit.
• I have been working on a drylined wall. (Plasterboard stuck to a brick wall with adhesive). Rawl plugs are ideal for this application.
• If you are securing your TV to a stud wall, then I’d recommend securing the scaffold board to the studs (where possible) and then using a cavity wall fixing for the other locations. Studs in most cases, will be spaced 400mm apart. (In some cases, 600mm)

I then returned to the TV to take some more accurate measurements. I wanted to ensure the TV was mounted perfectly in the centre for my customers, leaving equal gaps at the top and bottom. This is how I did it:

• I used a set square pushed up against the top of the TV whilst it was lying flat.
• I secured the mounting bracket to the back of the TV using the correct spacers provided with the kit.
• I measured to the exact millimetre the distance from the top of the TV to the top of the bracket.
• I then marked on the wall the same distance minus 5mm. This would indicate the correct place to fix the bracket.
• I removed the bracket from the TV and held it in place.
• I started by securing just one 40mm screw into the bracket. This would allow me to fine-adjust the placement with a spirit level before securing the bracket in 7 more places.
• I took a final measurement before lifting the TV onto the bracket.

Step 8. Fitting the Skirting Board

You can often reuse sections of your existing skirting board, but you will usually need around 600mm of extra skirting to cover the additional length created by the media wall.

In this build, I used a 94mm bullnose skirting board, which is widely available from most hardware suppliers. I cut all of the pieces using a mitre saw, which makes achieving clean, accurate joints much easier. The skirting was then glued to the wall and finished with a small bead of caulk along the top edge for a neat result.

And there we have it. A media wall finished to perfection.

Once the construction of your TV and fireplace wall is complete, it is time to decorate and style the space to tie the room together. Take a look at these media wall ideas for some interior inspiration.

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Conclusion

Building a media wall is achievable for most confident DIYers. The framing, boarding, and fitting work is straightforward if you plan carefully. Plastering is the one stage worth handing to a professional unless you’ve done it before.

Once it’s built, the wall is easy to personalise. Shelves, cupboards, LED strips, a soundbar, or a full surround sound setup can all be added without touching the structure.

If you’re still deciding on the overall look, I’ve put together four media wall designs with build notes covering different styles and budgets, worth a look before you commit to anything.

One thing worth getting right from the start: your TV choice.

Because the aperture is built to a fixed size, swapping the TV later means either living with a gap or rebuilding the opening. Buy the TV you actually want before you start the build, size the aperture around it, and you won’t need to touch it for a decade.

What to consider when choosing a TV for your media wall →

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DIY Media Wall Q & A

What is the Cheapest Way to Build a Media Wall?

Swap plasterboard and plastering for MDF. It’s cheaper and removes the need for a plasterer, but joins between boards will show through paint. To minimise this, design the wall around full 8×4 sheets and use shelves or ledges to hide any unavoidable joins. Done well, MDF can cut material costs by around 35%.

The other option is to plaster it yourself. Watch tutorials and practice on a spare board first. Plastering has a learning curve, but it’s not impossible for a patient DIYer.

Should I Use MDF or Plasterboard for a Media Wall?

Plasterboard with a skim finish is the better result. It blends seamlessly with your existing walls, and the joins disappear under plaster. MDF is cheaper and skips the plastering step, but joins are harder to hide, and the finish won’t be as clean. If you go MDF, design around full boards and use the structure to conceal joints.

Does a Media Wall Need Ventilation?

For most builds, no. A TV with a small gap around the edge gets enough airflow, and most electric fireplaces are designed to sit in sealed enclosures. That said, always check your fireplace manufacturer’s spec before assuming; some models do require ventilation clearance. If you’re still looking for the right fireplace, you’ll find loads of options on Amazon and dedicated fireplace distributors.

How to Build a Media Wall With Shelves

Here are some more media wall ideas for some inspiration. If you are looking for something a little more extravagant, then something like this might be ideal for you. My customer’s brother built his own media wall and incorporated a number of shelves into the design. He also built the whole unit into an existing alcove to blend in seamlessly with the room.

How Long Does a Media Wall Take to Build?

Around 16 hours of active work, spread across 2-3 days:

Stage	Time
Frame and plasterboard	8 hours
Plastering	3 hours
Painting	2 hours
Skirting and fitting	3 hours
Total	~16 hours

Plaster needs roughly a week to dry fully before painting, so factor that into your timeline. More complex builds with additional wiring or sockets will take longer. Bring in an electrician for that work rather than trying to do it yourself.

Can You Put a Log Burner in a Media Wall?

Yes, but you need to protect the TV from heat. Install a fireplace construction board above the burner. These are rated to withstand temperatures up to 1,100°C and deflect heat away from the TV and any electronics above.

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Does a Media Wall Need a Soundbar?

Not essential, but worth considering. When a TV sits inside an enclosure, the built-in speakers can struggle to project into the room. A soundbar solves that. If you watch films regularly, it makes a noticeable difference. The Sony HT-S2000 is a solid option under £300 and fits neatly into most media wall builds.

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