Free 16x10ft Shed Plans / Workshop Plans (4.8 x 3m)

Looking to build a spacious, functional shed or workshop in your garden? This guide to constructing a 16x10ft shed offers everything you need to get started on the perfect project, whether you’re a beginner or an experienced builder. These free shed plans include detailed 3D drawings, a step-by-step guide, and lists of the tools, materials, and suppliers needed to make your build a success.

With this easy-to-follow guide, you’ll have access to both free resources and the option to dive into a full paid guide featuring an interactive 3D model for a closer look at every component. This 16x10ft structure is a versatile choice for anyone who needs extra storage or workspace in the garden—ideal for those looking to add something functional and stylish to their outdoor space.

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Full Guides

View both full paid guides which provide comprehensive step-by-step details for this build.

⬇️ Continue to free version ⬇️

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Tool Requirements

To make this project the perfect success, I’d recommend the following tools. You can however select your preference of tool and brand.

Tool Recommendation	Average Cost
Combi Drill and Impact driver	£200
Mitre Saw	£160
Circular Saw	£140
Nail Gun	£360
Panel Saw	£12
Tape Measure	£20
Set Square / angle measure	£20 / £16
Pencil	£9
Claw Hammer	£20
Chisel	£15
Countersunk drill bit	£12

Material Requirements

Here’s a list of materials required to complete these garden workshop plans.

Material	Application
Treated Timber C16 47x75mm	Base
CLS Treated Timber 38x63mm	Walls and roof
22mm Egger Protect T&G Chipboard Flooring 2400x600mm	Flooring
OSB 3 T&G TG4 2400x600mm	Roof boards
Cladding	Cladding of your choice
22x100mm Treated Timber	Facia board
Selection of 80mm, 70mm and 50mm screws	Fixings
50mm 16GA galvanised nails for nail gun	Nails for nail gun
Breather membrane 1.5m x 25m	Moisture prevention
Axgard clear polycarbonate sheets 4mm	Window glass
Wood glue / Caberfix glue	Fixing boards
Celotex Insulation boards (75mm / 50mm)	Insulation

Step-by-Step Build Guide – How to Build a Garden Workshop

Prepare your ground, gather tools and source your materials before starting. The following workshop plans assume you have some basic building construction experience. If not, consider downloading the full guide.

Step 1. Build Your Workshop Foundations and Base

• Measure and mark the 16ft X 10ft area using string lines or marker spray paint.
• Build or secure your foundations. This might be ground screws, ground rods, concrete blocks or a solid concrete platform. Ensure spacing between foundation supports does not exceed 1000mm.
• Measure and cut your base timbers according to the diagram.
• Secure the outer frame first, then secure the inner frame. Use 80mm screws.
• If insulating the workshop, cut and secure the 75mm insulation boards between the timber frame.
• Lay a layer of breathable membrane over the top of the frame.
• Cut and secure the Egger Protect boards to the timber frame base using 50mm screws.

Step 2. Building the Four Walls

• Cut the timber for each wall, one at a time.
• Starting with the left side, secure the timber pieces together using 80mm screws.
• Lift the wall into place, aligned with the base side.
• Secure this to the base using 80mm screws.
• Whilst you build the back wall, temporarily hold the first wall using a space piece of timber.
• Build the back wall using the same method and once in place, secure to the left wall with 70mm screws.
• Continue onto the right wall and finally the front wall.
• Secure each wall to the adjacent wall with 70mm screws.

Step 3. Building the Roof Trusses

• Measure and cut the timber to create the trusses.
• Secure the timber pieces together using 70mm and 50mm screws.
• Lift each truss into place and secure to the top of the wall using 80mm screws.
• The frontmost and rear truss should be secured in line with the inner wall. The others should be aligned to each upright support.

Step 4. Completing the Roof Frame and Cladding Supports

• Measure and cut the timber pieces to the correct lengths.
• Secure the framing pieces to the trusses using 80mm screws.
• Cut the cladding supports to the correct length and angle (78-degrees)
• Secure to the wall frames and roofing frame using 70mm screws.

Step 5. Installing the Roofing Boards

• Starting from the top of the roof apex, on one side first, secure a full board to the roof, ensuring it is aligned with the roof frame. Use 50mm screws.
• Continue along the roof apex and cut the final board in line with the roof frame.
• Start the next row with a half piece of roof board. This ensure there is a good overlap between the tongue and groove boards.
• Cut and fit the final row of boards ensuring there is a good overlap and the boards align with the roof frame.
• Complete the other side of the roof with the same method.

Step 6. Fitting the Exterior Cladding

• Both side walls use 2m lengths. Cut these to size if required.
• Starting at the front right side, secure a piece of cladding to the timber frame using a nail gun and 50mm galvanised nails.
• Nails on the front corner should be secured within 10mm of the corner.
• Nails should then be secured onto the cladding on the other side where the tongue sits out, just in the corner of the lip.
• Continue working your way down the wall, cutting around windows using a jigsaw.
• The last board on the wall can be fixed and cut using a jigsaw to ensure it is flush with the rear wall.
• Continue working your way around the building.
• Corner or L shape trims can be secured to the corners to neaten up the finish.

Step 7. Securing Cladding onto the Eaves

• Measure and cut the cladding to fit under the roof overhang.
• Secure the cladding to the eaves using the nail gun and 50mm galvanised nails.
• Trim any overhanging cladding.

Step 8. Making the Windows

• Cut the timber for the windows. There is an outer frame and and inner frame.
• The outer frame should be constructed first and secured to the aperture of the window opening.
• The outer frame will have window stops fitted. This will help secure the inner frame and allow for opening and closing into the correct position.
• The inner frame will need to be cut using 45-degree angles. Measure and cut the four pieces for each window.
• Run the pieces through a table saw to cut a 4mm wide groove in which the polycarbonate sheets will sit.
• Cut the polycarbonate sheets to the correct size.
• Build three sides of each inner window frame and slot the polycarbonate sheet into in.
• Secure the final piece to complete the inner window frame.
• Fit two hinges and a window stay to each frame and secure in place.

Step 9. Building the Doors

• Cut the door frame timbers to length. Ensure the support timbers are cut at opposite 45-degree angles.
• Secure the outer frame for each door with 70mm screws.
• Secure the inner door frame supports using 70mm screws.
• Cut and fit the cladding to the front of the door frame ensuring an overlap at the bottom.
• Fit the hinges and secure the door to the frame.
• Fit a clasp and staple and door handle.

Step 10. Fitting the Watertight Roofing

Decide what type of roofing you would like to install. You could keep it cheap and simple with shed roof felt or upgrade to shingles, slate tiles or even EPDM roofing. Each have their own merits. For this example I’ll talk through a felt install.

• Measure the roof length and cut 4 pieces of felt to ensure they overlap each side by 50mm.
• Starting with the lower edge on both side, with an overlap again of 50mm, secure the felt into place with galvanised roofing felt nails (Clout nails). Ensure spacing of no more than 50mm between each nail.
• Now on one side fit another felt sheet that overlaps both the top apex and the lower felt sheet.
• Fit the final piece so that it overlaps both sheets on the other side.

Step 11. Fit the Facia Boards

• The final stage of the build is to cut the facia boards to size and secure them around the edge of the roof. This will hide any untidy seems on the roofing felt.
• Secure the boards with 50mm screws or nails.

Step 12. Treat the Cladding

• It’s important to treat the timber cladding to increase it’s life.
• You can add a colour treatment of a clear oil.

Optional Extras

• Insulate the interior walls and roof with 50mm Celotex boards.
• Board the interior with OSB board. This can create a great surface on which to mount shelving and other storage solutions.
• Add a heating system. This could be a diesel heater, a log burner or an electric heater.
• Consider the type of flooring you require for your workshop. Laminate, hardwood, vinyl, carpet tiles, interlocking plastic tiles. There are many options to consider.
• Decking outside. A decking area can be a great addition to your workshop and can create extra work space for when the weather allows.
• Electrics. Most workshops will require an electrical supply. Speak to a qualified electrician to run an armoured cable to your workshop.

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Hassle-Free Full Guide

Take a look at my detailed workshop plans. They include a detailed step-by-step guide, full printable materials list, cut list for each stage, interactive 3D model, PDF workshop plans document that can be printed or viewed on a tablet or smartphone.

These plans cover how to build a workshop for beginners, covering all the details required in an easy step-by-step format. I even offer email support for those who get stuck in any stage of the build.

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Planning Permission for your Garden Workshop

Can I build a workshop in my garden? Most garden workshops of this size are considered permitted development, meaning you won’t need to complete a planning application prior to construction. Just be sure to check these restrictions beforehand.

What is Permitted Development (PD)?

Permitted Development allows certain types of home and garden construction without the need for planning permission. This applies to outbuildings like sheds, garages, home offices, summer houses, and playhouses.

General Rules for Outbuildings Under Permitted Development

To qualify as permitted development, your outbuilding must meet specific criteria:

1. Purpose:
   • The outbuilding must be for “incidental use” to the main dwelling, meaning it should support the primary use of the house (e.g., a home gym, office, storage, or play area). Living spaces (such as self-contained residential units) are not allowed under PD and would require planning permission.
2. Location:
   • Outbuildings should not be placed in front of the main elevation of the property that faces a road. They should be located at the side or rear of the property.
3. Size and Height:
   • Total Area: The total area covered by all outbuildings and other additions must not exceed 50% of the “curtilage” (the land around the original house as it was first built or as it stood on 1 July 1948 if it was built before that date).
   • Single-storey outbuildings:
     • Maximum Height: 4 metres if the outbuilding has a dual-pitched roof (e.g., apex roofs).
     • Flat Roofs: Maximum height of 3 metres.
     • Eaves Height: No taller than 2.5 metres if within 2 metres of a boundary.
   • Distance from Boundaries: If the building is closer than 2 metres to a boundary, the maximum height is reduced to 2.5 metres.
4. Usage:
   • Outbuildings cannot be used as separate living accommodation (e.g., a residential annexe) unless planning permission is obtained.
   • They should not be used for commercial purposes.
5. Land Designations:
   • Special rules apply for outbuildings on “designated land” (including national parks, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, conservation areas, and World Heritage Sites). In these areas, outbuildings over 10 square metres cannot be located more than 20 metres from the house, and they must not exceed 10 square metres.
6. Listed Buildings:
   • If your property is listed, you will likely need planning permission for any outbuilding.

Special Considerations for Listed and Designated Land

If your property is in a designated area (like a national park or conservation area) or is a listed building, stricter rules apply, and you may need to apply for planning permission.

Practical Steps

1. Measure the area of your curtilage and ensure the outbuilding’s footprint does not exceed the 50% rule.
2. Confirm distances from boundaries and height restrictions based on your chosen outbuilding’s design.
3. Check local council rules, as some councils have specific rules that may affect permitted development rights.
4. Document the outbuilding’s purpose and any modifications in case the local council has questions.

When in Doubt

If you’re uncertain about your project or your home is on designated land or in a conservation area, contacting your local planning authority is always a good idea. They can provide guidance or confirm whether your plans are within Permitted Development limits. Alternatively, you can apply for a Lawful Development Certificate to confirm the legality of your outbuilding project.

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How Much Does it Cost to Build a Garden Workshop in the UK?

This isn’t an easy question to answer accurately due to the weekly price changes in materials and differences in your local supplier costs. The answer below is based on pricing in the South West of England as of November 2024.

This 16x10ft garden workshop with all the basic materials listed above comes to around: £2845

Insulating this building will add another: £1500

You may also need to consider any costs associated with the foundations.

This should give you a rough idea for your budgeting requirements. For accurate costs, you can download my full guide and send to complete materials list with quantities to your local timber and building materials supplier. They will be able to give you an accurate quote for everything.

On average, you can save in the region of 30% of the cost of a prefabricated garden workshop with these DIY workshop plans. When comparing the build quality, these designs stand out as the preferred construction method amongst professionals. The materials are stronger, better quality and will outlast any pre-fab garden workshop on the market.

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