This step-by-step DIY guide shows you exactly how to build your own shed using basic tools and affordable materials. I’ll walk you through building a timber-framed shed from the ground up, including foundations, base, walls, roof, doors, and finishing. You’ll learn how to create a strong, long-lasting shed at a fraction of the cost of flat-pack kits.
I built this shed as a direct comparison to the 12x10ft pre-fabricated shed you can see in the image. It’s a DIY vs pre-fabricated shed build guide to help you decide which is right for you.
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- DIY Shed Costs, Tools, Timescale, Planning and Materials
- Shed Plans: 12x10ft DIY Shed Build
- How to Build a Shed From Scratch – Step-by-Step
- Step 1. Foundations and Base
- Step 2. Constructing Walls for the DIY Shed
- Step 3. Adding the Cladding
- Step 4. How to Build the Dual Pitched Roof
- Step 5. Constructing the Front Wall & Entrance
- Step 6. How to Build Strong Doors
- Step 7. Painting or Staining the Exterior Timber
- Downloadable PDF 12x10ft Shed Plans
- More PDF Shed Plans
- FAQs
- Readers & Shed Building Community
Introduction
Having built a number of garden buildings, I can say with confidence that building your own shed from scratch is one of the cheapest ways to get a quality garden shed, and you can make it far nicer than anything you would buy flat-packed.
This post covers everything you need to build your own shed from scratch on a budget. I’ve included a detailed step-by-step guide with photos, a full materials list with quantities and suppliers, and a cost comparison between my DIY shed and a flat-pack shed of the same size.
My shed measures 12ft x 10ft (3.6m x 3m), a good size for most needs, but the same construction methods apply to any size. To answer the most common question upfront: yes, you can build a shed cheaper than you can buy one, and this guide shows you exactly how.
DIY Shed Costs, Tools, Timescale, Planning and Materials
This example is based on a 12x10ft shed, but you can apply the same construction techniques for most sizes.
Project Cost – As of April 2026, total material costs are roughly £1150.
Experience – beginner/intermediate (understanding of basic timber cutting with different saws and knowledge of a combi drill operation)
Time – 3-7 days
Planning Permission – This specific shed shouldn’t require planning permission as it remains under 2.5m tall. Check the full guide on permitted development here.
Tool Requirements
- Combi Drill (and drill bits) – I recommend the DeWalt DCD778
- Impact Driver – Save money with the DeWalt drill and driver set.
- Mitre Saw or Circular Saw
- Jigsaw
- Tape Measure
- Set Square / Carpenters Square
- Spirit level
- Pencil
Optional extras:
- Workbench
- PPE including face mask, goggles and workman gloves
- Ladder
- Staple gun
Materials List – 12×10ft DIY Shed
Here’s a list of all the materials I used for this build. For a complete list, including quantities for different shed sizes, check out my full plans here.
| Material | Supplier |
| CLS C16 timber 38x63mm x 2.4m | Travis Perkins |
| LogLap cladding 125mm x 22mm or Shiplap cladding 119mm x 14.5mm | eBay or TP |
| 3×2 C16 construction timber 45x70mm x 3m | Travis Perkins |
| 3×2 C16 construction timber 45x70mm x 3.6m | Travis Perkins |
| OSB3 18x1220x2440mm | Travis Perkins |
| OSB3 12x1220x2440mm | Travis Perkins |
| Corner/fence posts 90x90mm x 2.4m | Travis Perkins |
| Cement 25kg | Travis Perkins |
| Sharp sand 25kg | Travis Perkins |
| Waterproof sheeting | eBay or Amazon |
| Roof felt 10m | Amazon |
| Door hinges | Screwfix |
| Mix of screws – 80mm – 50mm – selection box | Screwfix |
| Hasp and Staple | Screwfix |
| Wood Stain or Paint | Travis Perkins |
Shed Plans: 12x10ft DIY Shed Build
If you’re serious about building your own shed from scratch, these downloadable PDF plans can help save you time and money. Simply download these plans for access to the complete materials list including quantities, cut lists for each section and detailed 3D diagrams.
How to Build a Shed From Scratch – Step-by-Step
Let’s get started with this DIY shed build. Remember, you can modify it to suit your requirements.
Step 1. Foundations and Base
1.1 Levelling the Ground
Materials required: Sharp sand, gravel (Type 1 MOT)
Before constructing the shed, it’s crucial to have a level and stable base.
Good drainage is essential. To improve drainage and prevent water pooling, spread a layer of sand and gravel evenly over the surface, then use a compactor or heavy roller to compact it into a solid, level base.
Top Tip: For added stability, incorporating a crushed aggregate base beneath the gravel can further enhance load distribution and longevity, reducing the risk of shifting over time.
1.2 The Shed Footings
Materials required: Paving slabs, sharp sand, cement, hardcore (Type 1 MOT)
Dig a 30cm deep square hole under each slab and fill with hardcore, sand and then top with cement before gently laying the slab on top. The timbers can be used with a spirit level to find the perfect level platform.
Top Tip: Use reclaimed slabs to reduce your costs.
1.3 Timber Framed Base
Materials required: 3″x2″ C16 treated construction timber (3m and 3.6m lengths), 70mm wood screws, paving slabs, 18mm OSB 3 boards
Using the 3″x2″ construction timber, a spirit level and a selection of good quality screws from Fixabolt, start by creating the outer frame. Then add three inner supports using the 3m timber. Add more slabs for further support.
To ensure a sturdy and solid shed base:
- Secure all the pieces of the outer frame together with two 70mm screws per join.
- Complete the same for the three frame pieces.
- Brace each section with additional 3″x2″ timbers, ensuring the OSB board joins fit over the timber sections. This will prevent movement between each board. The boards measure 18mm thick & 1220x2440mm.
- Measure diagonally from corner to corner to ensure the base is squared off.
Complete the base with boards and trim off any additional OSB with a circular saw. Fix the boards to the frame using 50mm screws.
This completes the shed base. You’re now ready to start construction on the next stage, the walls.
Alternative Shed Base Ideas
If you are building your shed on an uneven surface or would like to build a solid concrete base then take a look at these other guides for some step-by-step instructions:
Step 2. Constructing Walls for the DIY Shed
2.1 The Wall Frames
Materials required: 2.4m CLS timber (38x63mm), 3 & 3.6m C16 timber (3″x2″ / 45x70mm), 70mm screws
The first step is to create each wall frame using the two different types of timber. The overall height of the walls are 2000mm / 6′ 7″.
- Measure and cut 6 vertical pieces of timber and 2 horizontal pieces for the rear wall.
- Lay the pieces flat on the shed base and secure them together using 70mm screws. Apply two screws per butt joint.
- Each piece should be spaced roughly 52cm apart.
- Drill pilot holes before applying the screws to prevent splitting the wood.
Top Tip – When working alone, you can use a piece of timber at an angle to hold the walls into place.
Repeat this process for the side walls using 7 vertical pieces of timber.
Top Tip – For additional roof strength, add two pieces of timber along the top rail of the walls. This reinforcement is especially important if you plan to use the eaves of the roof for storage. – SR Structures
2.2 Corner Posts & Securing the Shed Walls
Materials required: 90x90mm / 3 ½” posts (2.4m lengths), 70mm screws
Use the 90mm square posts for the corners. Do not cut them to size yet, this will be done when the roof frame is on. The posts are not fixed to the floor. They simply act as fixing points for the walls and roof.
- Align the posts and frames flush with the base.
- Use four 70mm screws to attach the walls to the posts.
- Using the same screws, secure the wall frames to the base of the shed. Use one screw between each vertical post.
- The wall frame should be mounted flush to the edge of the frame. This is so the cladding can be secured to overlap the shed base.
2.3 Waterproofing the Walls
A large plastic sheet will add an extra layer of protection to your shed and prevent water damage to the walls and base. You can find the plastic sheet here on Amazon.
- Fix one end of the plastic sheet to the front corner post using a staple gun.
- Run the sheet around the shed applying staples along the top edge as you go.
- Apply a staple every 30cm or so.
- Once applied around all three sides, return and apply staples along the bottom edge and some of the middle supports.
- Return to the front of the shed once completed in the next section.
2.3 Building the Front Outer Frame
With 3 wall frames up, it’s time to add the front outer frame which is simply to ensure all the walls are now lined up correctly. This is required for the roof build. Cut the two side pieces to the correct height and add the top rail. Secure each piece into place using 70mm screws.
Step 3. Adding the Cladding
For my build, I used a slightly more expensive log lap cladding. It gives the feel of a log cabin but remains easy to install with its tongue and groove profile. Below I have provided links to some options:
- Each piece is cut to length using a mitre saw.
- Start from the bottom and work your way up each wall. Ensure the first piece overlaps the shed base.
- Cladding can be secured with 50mm nails or thin (3.5mm) 50mm screws.
- Ensure there are no gaps as you add each piece.
- Leave the last few pieces at the top of the wall. These will be added once the roof trusses have been built.
Step 4. How to Build the Dual Pitched Roof
4.1 Constructing the Timber Trusses
Materials required: CLS timber, OSB (off-cuts), 70mm screws
This shed has a 15-degree angle on a dual-pitched roof. This ensures the height of the roof does not exceed 2.5m. The following frame will be strong enough to support a persons weight. (~80kg)
- Set your mitre saw to 15 degrees to ensure each cut is the same.
- Using the CLS timber cut each piece to length.
- Cut enough timber for 7 trusses
- Using some of the off-cuts from the shed base OSB board, cut some triangle shapes to secure and join the top of the trusses. Place one on either side.
- At each end of the shed add one vertical piece of timber to support the roof onto the top of the wall.
- Cut notches into the trusses to ensure a good fixing point to the top of the walls.
- Notches can be cut using a hand saw
- Secure the trusses to the walls using 80mm screws from the top down.
4.2 Creating the Front Eaves
Materials required: CLS timber, 80mm screws
The roof can be extended at the front of the shed to provide some extra protection from the weather.
- Cut 600mm / 2ft timbers using the CLS.
- Secure these to the front of the first truss using two 80mm screws.
- Finish the overhanging eaves with a piece of CLS timber.
- Secure CLS timber around the rest of the roof to complete the roof frame.
- Now you can cut the corner posts to the same angle of the roof. (15-degrees)
- Use a handsaw or similar to follow the truss roof line.
The following image shows the complete eaves framework and cut corner posts.
4.3 Boarding the Shed Roof
11mm OSB board is suitable for the shed roof. I have used 6 6’x4′ boards in total.
- Place the first two complete OSB boards onto the roof and secure them in place using 40mm screws.
- Apply at least 16 screws per board, evenly spread out.
- Measure, cut and secure the next boards into place.
- Boards can be cut using a circular saw.
You can use a ladder to climb onto the roof.
4.4 Securing the Roof Felt
You will require 2 x 10m rolls to cover the roof.
- Starting with the lower edge of the roof, secure one complete length to the roof using 5mm tacks.
- Place tacks every 5cm.
- Ensure an overhang of about 60mm around every edge of the roof.
- Apply the second roll of felt to ensure it overlaps the first and also overlaps the peak of the roof.
- Repeat this step on the other side of the shed roof.
You can walk on the roof to achieve this finish.
Top Tip – You can apply a layer of shed roof felt adhesive between the joins and around the edges for a secure, watertight finish.
More Shed Roofing Options
Felt is a great budget-friendly roofing option, but you might want to take things a step further. Explore some of my top recommendations here:
Step 5. Constructing the Front Wall & Entrance
Building the front wall for the shed was the next step, having to make a slightly different frame to support the window and door opening.
5.1 Building the Front Wall Frame
- Using the CLS timber, measure and cut a suitable frame for the doors and window. (Window optional)
- The door should be a suitable height and width for your own personal preferences.
- A door frame can now been added using 22mm x 100mm timber. This will support the hinges and door stops.
- Build a suitable frame for the window. Check the height and width. Allow a 5mm gap around each side for any fine adjustments.
5.2 Shed Window Installation
Top Tip – To save money on a window I searched locally on Facebook Marketplace and found something suitable for £30.
The Window is simply screwed in from the side.
- Open the window and drill some pilot holes before setting in the screws.
- Secure in place with some 60mm screws.
5.3 Completing the Cladding
- Add some additional timber supports to finish off the back and front wall. The should be evenly spaced to provide support into the eaves of the roof. See above picture.
- Cut and secure the cladding to fit into the front and rear eaves. Use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the cladding at the correct angles.
- Using a jigsaw, cut the cladding to fit around the windows and doors.
Step 6. How to Build Strong Doors
The shed door was made using more CLS timber and some of the leftover cladding. Make a double door frame and secure the cladding vertically on these rectangle frames.
- Measure the door frame and cut the timber to size.
- Allow for a 5mm gap around each edge to allow the doors to freely open and close.
- Cut the cladding to fill the door frames.
- Secure the cladding in place using 50mm screws.
- Create a door frame stop on the internal side for the doors to sit against when closed. Use a door frame stop timber for this.
- Add hinges to the doors and secured in place with some 40mm screws. I didn’t add a handle but did add a lockable clasp for security.
- Add door handles and/or a door claps and staple to finish the doors.
Step 7. Painting or Staining the Exterior Timber
The final steps to building your own shed include adding trim (fascia) to the sides of the roof, fitting a handle, hasp, and staple to the door, installing a motion sensor light, and painting or staining the entire shed.
Weatherproofing your shed ensures a long-lasting, secure structure. Finishing the shed with exterior wood paint provides a professional look and shields it from the elements. You can opt for a stain to showcase the natural beauty of the wood or choose a coloured wood paint to match your garden’s theme. Read more about weatherproofing your shed here:
Downloadable PDF 12x10ft Shed Plans
Looking for detailed shed plans? Download my comprehensive 12x10ft DIY shed guide, perfect for beginners and experts alike!
PDF Shed Plans – 12x10ft DIY Shed Build (Easy & Affordable!)
What’s Included in Your 20-Page PDF Shed Plan?
- Step-by-step guide – Clear, easy-to-follow instructions from start to finish
- Designed for beginners – No prior experience needed!
- High-quality 3D drawings – Visualise each section of your shed before you start
- Accurate cut list – Save time and minimise waste with exact measurements
- Complete materials list – Simplify sourcing with a precise checklist
- Cost-effective & detailed – Build a durable shed for a fraction of the cost
- Metric format & UK-friendly – Perfect for UK-based DIYers
More PDF Shed Plans
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2.4×1.8m (8x6ft) Shed PlansOriginal price was: £14.00.£9.80Current price is: £9.80. -
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1.8×1.2m (6x4ft) Shed PlansOriginal price was: £12.00.£8.40Current price is: £8.40. -
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3×3.6m (10x12ft) Shed PlansOriginal price was: £16.00.£11.20Current price is: £11.20.
Here’s a quick video demonstrating a complete build from start to finish.
FAQs
If you have any questions not answered in this guide, please leave a comment below.
Q: Is it cheaper to build your own shed?
Here is the all important question. Can you build your own shed cheaper than you can buy a flat pack shed? As I purchased and built a flat-pack shed the year before, I have recent pricing and build experience to share as a comparison.
A: Yes, you can build a shed from scratch cheaper than you can buy a flat-pack shed. The great thing is, that a DIY shed built to these specifications is not only cheaper but built to a much higher standard.
Q: How much will a 12x10ft DIY shed cost in 2026?
Building a shed of this size in 2026 will cost in the region of £1150.
Here’s an updated materials and price list for 2026.
| Material | Quantity | Price (GBP) | Total Cost |
| CLS Timber 38×63 x 2.4m | 60 | 3.92 | 235.20 |
| Shiplap cladding 125x22mm | 224m | 1.98 | 443.52 |
| 3×2 timber 47x75mm x 3m | 8 | 8.45 | 67.60 |
| 3×2 timber 47x75mm x 3.6m | 6 | 10.1 | 60.60 |
| OSB3 18mm 1220x2440mm | 5 | 26.63 | 133.15 |
| OSB3 11mm 1220x2440mm | 6 | 22.58 | 135.48 |
| 90x90mm post 2.4m | 4 | 19.32 | 77.28 |
| Plastic sheet 20x4m | 1 | 15 | 15 |
| Rood Felt 10m | 2 | 27.99 | 55.98 |
| Door hinges | 4 | 6.99 | 27.96 |
| Screw Selection | 1 | 40 | 40 |
| Hasp and Staple | 1 | 6.99 | 6.99 |
| TOTAL | 1150 |
Most of these materials prices were taken from the Travis Perkins website, based on their trade account prices. Anyone can sign up for a trade account with TP. Get a free trade account here:
As you can see, the cladding is the most expensive part of this build. You can save around £200 on cheaper cladding, such as this shiplap cladding at Jewsons.
A flatpack 10×12 shed from BillyOh will cost you £1622.
Q: How do I insulate my shed?
A: Insulating your shed is a great idea if you plan to use it all year round as a workshop or hobby space. It’s pretty easy but the costs can add up quite a bit. You can try and insulate your shed for free or on a budget but you’ll need to collect loads of free insulating materials before you get started. Click the button below to read my full guide on how to insulate your shed.
Q: Do I need planning permission for a garden shed (UK)?
A: Before you get started, you’ll need to be aware of any building restrictions, so be sure to check the UK Planning Portal, which outlines where your shed meets permitted development rules.
You can read my full guide to planning permission for your shed here:
Q: How long does it take to build a shed?
A: My shed took roughly 4 days to complete from start to finish. This is a basic design that allows you to construct a watertight structure in under a week. Compared to a flat-pack shed, which will take a couple of days, it takes roughly twice as long.
Q: Is it hard to build your own shed?
A: Far from it! If you have the time, patience and a few basic tools, there is no reason why you can’t build your own shed. You can even use my detailed step-by-step DIY shed plans to help you along the way. If you are still feeling unsure about this task, feel free to reach out in the comments section below or drop me an email.
Q. Do you need to pour footings for a shed?
A: In most cases, you don’t need to pour concrete footings for a shed. These types of buildings are generally lightweight and don’t require extensive support. Now, this depends on the size of the shed and its intended purpose. If you’re building a shed that’s over 12ft x 12ft and will have heavy machinery inside, then it’s worth considering a more substantial shed foundation and footing.
Q: What is the cheapest way to line the inside of a shed?
A: You don’t have to line the inside of a shed unless you intend to hang heavy items off the walls. My shed construction will allow enough support and strength to build shelves and brackets for tools and other items. If however, you want to create an internal wall system in your shed the best material to use would be OSB boards. Either a 9mm or 12mm board should be sufficient for most needs.
If you are intending on internally lining your shed walls, then it’s worth considering insulation to add extra warmth and cooling to your building.
Readers & Shed Building Community
Chris from Corby
Chris recently got in touch to show me what he had created off the back of this post and my shed plans download. He’s mixed things up a bit with an 8x12ft footprint and vertical cladding. He’s also up-cycled an old PVC door and windows (for £10 off Marketplace) to give this shed a professional-looking finish. I like how he has added some guttering to make good use of the rainwater for his garden plants. This is a great example of how to build a shed from scratch.
This is a great guide, thank you for sharing this.
This steps are very useful, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for sharing informative articles
Ben
Great article. Did your plastic sheeting hold up? The reviews on the B&Q website say about it breaking down quite quickly.
Thanks. It’s been fine for the last 3 years or so.
What an excellent article, nice and easy to follow. I’m so tempted to build my own shed now as my existing one is some what disappointing.
Thanks for your time and effort in writing this.
Ian
Thanks for the kind comment Ian. All the best with your build. Ben
Hi Ben. Thanks for the great detailed post. Just a quick question. Is the waterproof membrane necessary for this build or can I get away with skipping this part?
Thanks Reuben. The waterproof membrane isn’t essential for this build as the structure and shed itself will prevent moisture ingress to a certain degree. I recommend using a waterproof barrier as it will prevent moisture getting into places that it’s not wanted. If you have valuable items in your shed then this will provide an extra layer of protection. For the ultimate protection I would recommend using a breathable membrane which will stop moisture whilst allowing air to circulate through the walls. Hope this helps, Ben.
Hi Ben,
Great step by step guide, so thanks for taking the time to write and share this.
Am I right in thinking the loglap cladding is screwed through the waterproof membrane and into the end vertical wall batons and therefore creating a potential water path through the membrane?
Don’t get me wrong I think it’s an unlikely water path due to the compression between the cladding and membrane and not one I can think how to avoid right now, but just checking I’ve understood your construction correctly.
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks Dan
Potentially you are correct but I’ve not had any issues with damp etc. within the building. If you were concerned then you can always add an extra batten to raise the cladding off the membrane.
Do remember, this is a budget build shed so it’s up to you how far you want to take the construction. It very much depends on what you intend to use the structure for. Mine was intended originally just for shed storage space and it’s perfectly adequate for this.
Best of luck with your build.
Ben
Thank you for this. I built mine last year following your steps and it looks amazing.
Great job Ben. Can I ask how many packs/lengths of cladding you ordered and what length they were. Have followed the link and seems to be coming out at a lot more than expected for my potentially 2.4mx2.4m (2m tall) shed. I’m approximating I’ll need 17 lengths of 2.4m per side plus a bit for the roof apex at the front. If I say 70 lengths this would be over £800. Am I missing something fundamental here ? Been a long day!
Hi Gary, Pricing has changed quite a bit with the loglap cladding since I built my shed so it’s going to be different. Prices have nearly doubled in the last year or so! Maybe due to Covid, I don’t know but I’m hoping the price will come down again. That’s partly why I started using the shiplap cladding as it’s cheaper.
Thanks
Ben, is the membrane left exposed i.e. is it on the floor to walk on?
It is in my shed for the time being. I will eventually lay some laminate flooring or something similar.
Ben, I have read this twice and looked at the photos. Where does the membrane go? It is on the floor in some photos and tucked under the front and then it is just tucked under but not on the actual floor. On the walls does it just stay exposed from the inside?
Ideally the membrane will cover the floor and tuck right underneath before you add the wall frames. Then the membrane on the walls will go right down to the floor. (tuck under is desired). The idea is to prevent moisture becoming stagnant under the base.
Ben, great write up and instructions. You have used a membrane on the inside walls. Did you clad this internally also ? What covers the plastic membrane?
John
For the internal of the shed there is nothing but the timber frame. It’s a simple build with only a frame, plastic membrane and the cladding. You can choose to add an internal wall made of ply, OSB or even plasterboard.
Hi Ben,
Apart from the fence posts, it looks like all the timber you used was untreated. Is that because it was all going to be covered by the cladding and so not exposed to the elements? Did you treat any of the timber with a preservative yourself? E.g. the timbers of the base which sit on the slabs?
Did you put some kind of flooring on top of the membrane to protect it from the wear of trampling feet?
The timber isn’t treated as it should be protected from the elements due to the moisture barrier. It would however be a good idea to treat the wood for extended protection.
hi ben ive just found your site on how to build a shed from scratch and im going to start my one in july as weather should be good the difference is my one is going to be a long shed as opposed to square the overall lengh will be about 8 mtrs dom you think i will be able to get timbers that long or will i have to join them regards chris
Hi Chris, I think you’ll struggle to find any timber over 4.8m.
Hi, great post. Given me lots to think about.
On the cladding you mention in comments above that you would do it differently. I’m thinking of making the frame flush with the posts and then boarding over posts and finishing with beading at the corners. This will also allow it to go over the floor at the bottom for extra protection. Having already build yours, any reason why this wouldn’t work?
Sounds like a very sensible plan. No reason not to. Good luck with your build.
Hi Ben, thks for the guide, really informative. I’ve started building my shed today based of your spec. So far got the base/floor done. Can I ask what the height is between the top of your wall frame plate to the top of the roof rafters? I’m guessing about 30 cms to allow for the roof osb and the depth of the floor? Also the plate height is 2m not the stud height? Cheers Chris.
Hi Chris, I can’t remember exactly but the overall height is 2.4m so I would say you’re pretty close with your calculations.
Hi Ben. Bit of a random question as I am a novice when building things and this is my first large build. Any chance you can tell me what size screws you used and where to use them?
Mostly used 80mm screws which are used to join the timber frame. Simply pilot hole drill into the top and bottom rail to secure the upright posts.
Hi this is amazing and what a great find. being a novice with a modicum of DIY experience it fills me with confidence. The one thing that I’m most concerned with is getting it all level as the garden has a small degree of slope. How do you achieve that with those corner pads?
Also is it worth filling the gaps in between the floor frame with something so I don’t get vermin hiding\living underneath.
Also is the floorboard treated or weather proofed in any way.
I may be getting a bit concerned about obviously small things here.
Thanks again
Try levelling your garden by digging out one side and raising the other. You might want to make a raised base for this. Try my decking post to see how this is done. https://wood-create.com/2020/04/13/how-to-build-your-own-decking-area/
If you can fill the gaps then it’s probably a good idea. I however like that I have provided shelter for hedgehogs etc.
The floorboards are not treated but they are covered with a waterproof barrier which prevents rot.
Hi Ben
Great write up of your build, very informative.
I’m thinking of doing something similar – can I ask how your shed been for condensation and damp so far?
I’m wondering about putting the polythene sheet under the base frame make a difference – it would stop damp rising up from underneath but allow ventilation. Also possible to infill gaps in the frame with insulation perhaps.
Andy
Thanks Andy. I made sure there was ample ventilation in the eaves which prevents any condensation build up. I’ve also just started building an extension and insulating so will write this up and share at some point.
Hello, great post thank you! What timber did you use for the doorway frame? What timber for the door frames?Any bracing aside form the vertical loglap on the doors?
Hi, I would put a diagonal brace on the door frame and then lap on top. This will prevent and warping. The timber is the same as the walls. You might also do the same on the walls depending on whether you will be putting any weight inside.
Hi Ben
Would you say these build materials are sufficiently robust to use the shed as a bar with a wall mounted tv. I’d intend on putting insulation inside and some interior panelling on top of therefore. Also is the wood pre treated or did you treat after – as the final shed looks painted or stained.
Thanks!
John
Hi John
Easily strong enough to support a fair bit of weight. Try adding diagonal supports between the posts to add strength. I’ve got a new post where I am insulating and extending the original build. You can see the progress here: https://wood-create.com/2021/02/14/how-to-build-a-garden-office-from-scratch-on-a-budget/
Hi Ben. Great guide. Going to build my own but only 2400mm wide. I’m having trouble working the length of the rafters for my size shed. Did you use any sort of calculation when working out the length of your rafters or could you tell me how long each side of the rafter needs to be. Thanks again. Mark
Hi Mark. I just guessed the size so it’s really up to you. There is no precise science behind it but take into consideration the size of the boards for the roof which normally come in 2440x1220mm size. The less cutting the easier. 👍🏼
Really appreciate the time taken to create this guide. I’m just designing a smaller version of your shed and working out what materials I need, so quick question – what timber did you use to make the roof trusses? Was it the cls 63mm x 38mm? Thanks
Yes, that’s correct. You can go for a 2:4 if you want it a bit stronger but the 3:4 should be fine with 600mm intervals.
Hi Ben
Great description. How did you power the light – did you run mains or is it solar/battery?
If mains – any particular advice on getting power to the shed – ducting etc?
And did you clad internally or just leave the plastic exposed?
Hi Steve. I’ve run mains to the shed. You’ll need a qualified electrician for this or to sign it off. You’ll need an armoured cable in ducting in the ground or along the fence. You’ll need to read into this yourself as it will depend on how far you are going and power requirements. Easier to get an electrician to install.
No cladding internally yet but will be insulating and plasterboard soon.
Thanks Ben
What is roof supports made of? not clear
Same timber as the walls.
Hi Ben, have you altered the materials list at all? A couple of weeks ago it contained hyperlinks to the B&Q products but now it just has a number in each apart from the cladding.
Hi, I might have edited but the links should still work for each of the products listed. Try reloading the page to see if that works.
Sorted now. It was the Adblocker stopping them from appearing.
Hi Ben,
I’ve basically followed your instructions to the letter and I’m at the point of finishing the cladding but haven’t chosen how I’m going to paint/stain the cladding.
Could I ask what you used and what you’d recommend? I’m not looking to change the colour of the cladding much as I like the grain, maybe a few tints darker like on yours.
I’m thinking a stain but I know they can be tricky and not exactly weather proof.
Thanks,
Hi Issac, you could try a clear water protective treatment such as ‘Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment’. It can be expensive but it’s one of the best for clear shed protection. You could also try a decking oil, like ‘Ronseal Ultimate Protection Decking Oil’. 5L should be plenty. Regards, Ben
Hi Ben, very informative and helpful write up for building a shed. By far the easiest to follow guide I have found and the one I intend to use when (if) I get around to replacing my shed.
I’m curious about the edges of the OSB that makes the floor. Due to the 19mm inset you have between the walls and the corner posts, and therefore the flush-fit cladding, the cladding stops before covering this edge. Does this mean the edge of this OSB exposed to the elements?
Thanks,
John
Thanks John.
I’ve laid a waterproof membrane on the floor to protect the flooring and also allowed a slight overhang for the cladding. Given the chance to do again I would probably do it slightly differently. But not exactly sure how at this point.
Hi Ben, great write up. It’s inspired me to build my own! I have a sticking point. Where my shed will be, the back and one side will be against my red brick house walls. I don’t know whether to sit hard up against the brick or leave my stud wall away from the brick and then if so what to clad it in as it will be out of sight I don’t want to ship lap it.
Hi Dan. I guess you could join the shed to the house but you will need to research suitable flashing materials to ensure a water tight fit. The easier option is to build away from the brick walls. the cladding you then use will be dependant on what you are using the shed for. Maybe just a cheaper tongue and groove cladding. I would advise enough space to get down the sides, firstly for building access and secondly maintenance reasons.
Cheers Ben, I’m going to build away from it. Wood is bought, frame work begins tomorrow! One question, did you pre drill holes for the 5×75 screws? I’ve read conflicting opinions.
I used a countersink bit set to about 30mm depth to drill pilot holes. 👍🏼
I did pre drill holes on mine, but only to the depth of piece of wood.
Hi Ben , very helpful informed process of building a shed thanks , just one thing what is the height of it please ?
Hi Jez. Total height is roughly 2.4m. Wall height was 2m.
Hi Ben, please can you tell me what you used theCLS 38x63x2400 for ?
And also C16 3×2. ?
Thanks
Allan
Hi Allen, I’ve just updated the post so hopefully it’s a little clearer now. Basically the C16 was used for the base frame main supports and the wall frames top and bottom pieces.
Hi Ben, your shed is 360 x 300cm But in the shopping list the longest wood you list is 2400mm. Did you have to join the wood for base and walls? If so, how did you do it?
Hi Mantas, if you check again you will see that I have in fact used 2.4m, 3m and 3.6m 3×2 timber.
Hi Ben What wood material did you use for the outside of your shed? I’ve read through but, I don’t see what type of wood or brand it is and if this is tongue and groove. My husband has built our shed and we are deciding on the outside covering. We live in Ontario, Canada. Thank you, Deborah
Hi Deborah. It’s called loglap timber cladding and comes in a number of different sizes. It’s a type of tongue and groove with rounded sides. Not sure if this product is available in Canada
Hi, Can I ask how you secured the 90mm Corner Posts to the floor?
Hi, it’s not secured to the floor itself. The walls and roof rafters support these posts to prevent them from moving.
Ooh wow – so organised – step by step !