BillyOh Kent Log Cabin Review & Build Guide (After 4 Years of Use)

Four years ago I bought a BillyOh Kent log cabin to use as a garden office, and it’s been one of the most used spaces in our home ever since. In this updated BillyOh log cabin review and build guide, I’ll share my real-world experience of owning the cabin long-term, along with what has held up well, what hasn’t, and what I would do differently if I were buying again.

I’ll also walk through the full build and assembly process, including groundwork, base preparation, tools required, and practical tips that should help if you’re following BillyOh log cabin assembly instructions or planning your own installation. Whether you’re considering the Kent model specifically, or researching BillyOh log cabins, summerhouses, sheds, or garden offices in general, this guide should give you a clear idea of product quality, ease of assembly, and what to expect from delivery to finished build.

Here is the same building 4 years on. Bear in mind the latest image was taken in February, so it’s a bit wet and cloudy. You can see I’ve extended the garden office, and our garden has changed.

4-Year Update: How the BillyOh Kent Log Cabin Has Held Up

After four years of daily use as a garden office (and more), I feel I can now give a genuinely honest assessment of how this BillyOh Kent log cabin performs long-term.

Roof & Weather Resistance

The roofing materials have held up surprisingly well. The roof felt is still intact, even after several periods of heavy rain and a number of strong storms. I haven’t experienced any leaks, and there are no obvious signs of lifting or tearing. Considering this is a budget garden building, I’ve been impressed with how well the roof has performed so far.

External Timber & Fascia Boards

The area that has deteriorated the most is the fascia boards. These have taken the brunt of the weather and are now clearly more worn than the rest of the building, which is common with most garden buildings. They’re still functional, but I expect I’ll need to replace them within the next couple of years.

Some of the timber around the bottom edges of the building is also starting to show signs of water damage. At this stage, it’s minor and superficial, but it’s something to monitor. Continued painting and sealing should help extend its life.

Ongoing Maintenance (Very Important)

Each year I repaint the entire exterior with a fresh coat of shed paint. This has made a huge difference in preserving the wood and slowing down deterioration.

If you buy one of these cabins, I would strongly recommend budgeting both time and money for regular repainting. Skipping this step will almost certainly shorten the lifespan of the building.

Doors, Hinges & Handles

Functionally everything still works, but cosmetically the metal hardware has aged.

The hinges and door handles have lost their original gold chroming and now look quite tired. This doesn’t affect usability, but it does make the building feel older than it actually is. I’m considering replacing the handles and hinges, which would be a relatively cheap way to freshen things up.

Interior Condition

Inside, the cabin is still in excellent shape.

There is only one small crack in the plaster above one of the window frames, which is likely due to normal timber movement over time. Other than that, the walls, insulation, and finishes are all holding up well.

The space remains comfortable to work in year-round.

Daily Use & Practicality

I use this building daily for working, relaxation, playing computer games and small product photography.

It has effectively become a multi-purpose garden room, and it continues to serve that role extremely well.

Customisation & Extensions

One of the biggest advantages of this type of log cabin is how easy it is to customise.

I’ve since extended the building with storage compartments on both sides:

• One side now houses a log store, surfboard storage, and general beach equipment
• The other side is used as a tool storage shed

This flexibility has worked out extremely well for me and has significantly increased the overall usefulness of the building.

Overall Verdict After 4 Years

Overall, the building is doing very well and I’m still happy with my purchase.

That said, I don’t expect this type of cabin to last a lifetime. It was a budget garden room build that cost under £6k in total (inc. insulation, electrics and interior finishing) for a fully insulated garden office, and for that price, it has exceeded my expectations.

With regular maintenance, I expect to get many more years of use out of it. As a cost-effective way to create a usable garden office or hobby space, I think it represents good value.

Things I Would Have Done Differently

Looking back after four years of ownership, there are a few decisions I would change if I were ordering this building again.

Choose Pressure Treated Timber – I originally selected the standard treated timber to save some money. In hindsight, I should have upgraded to pressure treated timber for better long term durability. The extra cost was around £500 and I believe it would have been worth it for improved resistance to moisture and rot.

Install Shingle Style Roofing – From a purely aesthetic point of view, I would have chosen shingle-style roofing instead of felt. The felt has performed well, but shingles look better and give a more premium finish.

Build a Better Insulated and Solid Base – I would invest in a sturdier base with better insulation. The floor can feel quite cold in winter. I also would have preferred a concrete base, as I occasionally hear animals scratching underneath the building at night.

Buy a Larger Size – The 4x3m size is perfectly usable, but I regret not choosing the 5x4m model. Extra space quickly becomes valuable once desks, storage, and insulation are added. Costs do rise with larger buildings, especially when insulating, but more space would have been worth it.

Buying Advice Summary

If you are considering a BillyOh log cabin or similar garden building, these are my biggest takeaways after four years of ownership.

• Choose pressure treated timber if your budget allows for improved longevity
• Plan regular exterior repainting as part of ongoing maintenance
• Consider upgrading to shingle style roofing for better aesthetics
• Invest in a solid, well insulated base, ideally concrete if possible
• Size up if you can afford it, extra space fills up quickly
• Budget for better quality door handles and hardware
• Expect good service life from a budget cabin, but not a lifetime building

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BillyOh Kent Log Cabin Assembly Instructions (Step by Step with Pictures)

My Wooden Frame Base (Overview)

I opted for a timber-framed base as it was the most cost-effective option and something I could build myself. For guidance on selecting the correct timbers for your based check out my timber-framed base guide.

After removing the old shed, I reused part of the existing timber frame and cleared enough space to suit the footprint of the cabin. Always check the exact external dimensions of your building and ensure the base is slightly larger with no overhangs.

I built a raised timber frame supported by posts set into the ground on gravel and secured with postcrete, with additional support from breeze blocks. All timber was kept clear of the ground to allow drainage and reduce the risk of rot.

This approach provided a solid, level base at a reasonable cost and has supported the building well over the years. The one regret is that it has also created a nice home for small animals that scratch around underneath at night.

Here’s a list of materials I used:

Garden Building Base Materials

• C24 Kiln Dried Regularised Sawn Treated Timber 47mm x 150mm x 4.8m
• C16 Kiln Dried Regularised Sawn Treated Timber 47mm x 150mm x 3.6m
• Bullet Gold Wood Screw 5.0 x 100mm Box of 200
• Treated Incised UC4 Fence Post Green 100mm x 100mm
• Blue Circle Ready to Use Postcrete 20kg
• Gravel and Shingle Trade Pack 20mm
• 4Trade Creocote Dark Brown 4L

If you are looking to build your shed or garden office on uneven ground then my other post will help.

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BillyOh Log Cabin Assembly Instructions

Download these billyOh assembly instructions here: BillyOh log cabin assembly instructions (Kent – 4m x 3m & 4m x 4m)

Step-by-Step BillyOh Kent Garden Office Assembly Guide

With the base complete, it was time to start assembling the BillyOh Kent garden office. Below is my step by step build guide based on my own installation, along with practical tips to help make your build easier.

Before starting, take time to read through the supplied assembly instructions so you understand the overall process and components involved.

Delivery & Packaging

My delivery arrived in November and fairly late in the day, meaning it was dark and cold. Delivery is curbside only and carried out by a single driver, so be prepared to move the materials yourself.

I unloaded everything onto the driveway first so I could check and organise the components before moving them to the rear garden. Once around the back, I stacked the timber neatly under a temporary gazebo to keep it dry.

I grouped similar sized pieces together, which made locating parts much quicker during the build.

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Build Day One: Organising Materials & Instructions

My first job was organising the timber delivered the previous day. Most pieces were already stacked by size, but space was limited which made things a little awkward.

Next, I located the fixings and paperwork.

I had been emailed a link to the assembly guide, but this did not include the technical drawings. The technical details were supplied in the delivery paperwork.

BillyOh Kent Log Cabin Assembly Instructions

To complete the build you will need both documents:

• Assembly Guide
• Technical Details / Drawings

The assembly guide alone does not include detailed dimensions for each component, so you will often need to refer to both documents during construction.

Download BillyOh Kent assembly instructions here: BillyOh log cabin assembly instructions

Fixings & Hardware

All fixings were supplied in a single large bag rather than separated by type.

This meant I spent the first 20 minutes sorting and finding the correct screws for the opening stages of the build. It would be much easier if fixings were separated into labelled bags.

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Laying Bearers & Starting the Lower Walls

The first step was laying the floor bearers lengthways across the base. At this stage they were positioned roughly, as the first wall courses are needed to establish the exact outer footprint of the building.

I then placed the first wall sections on top of the bearers and screwed them down.

It is very important at this point to check:

• Measurements between the doorway
• Overall wall positions
• That everything is square

Use the technical drawings to confirm dimensions, then refer back to the BillyOh assembly instructions for the build sequence. If this stage is inaccurate, problems will appear later in the build.

Building Up the Walls

I continued adding wall sections one row at a time, tapping each piece into place using a rubber mallet.

A small number of boards had poorly machined slots and needed slight widening to fit correctly. This was a little frustrating but limited to only a few pieces.

Once I reached:

• Six logs high at the front
• Five and a half logs high at the side

It was time to install the smaller window sections. This step is not clearly shown in the assembly guide, so you will need to refer to the technical drawings.

With all boards organised by size, the walls go up quickly.

I stopped at this stage to move on to installing the floor.

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Installing the Floorboards

At this stage I was able to install the floorboards.

Because I did not have a solid concrete base, I chose to strengthen the floor first by adding additional bearers. I used extra 35mm treated timber to double up the bearers for increased rigidity.

I ordered the optional 19mm floorboards with my BillyOh Kent cabin.

Before fitting the boards, I laid a layer of insulation between the bearers to improve warmth during colder months.

Fitting the Boards

• Floorboards use tongue and groove joints
• Boards are nailed into the bearers
• I started on the left hand side and worked across

To prevent creaking, I checked that all bearers were level and securely fixed to the joists before laying the boards.

One board needed cutting around an internal wall. I marked the cutout, then used a jigsaw.

Power was already available from a previous shed installation. The armoured cable runs beneath the frame, so I drilled a hole in one floorboard to bring the cable up into the cabin.

The final board usually needs trimming to width. This can be done with a jigsaw or table saw.

Once the floor was installed, building became much easier without having to balance on joists.

Continuing the Walls & Installing Window Frames

Window frames are best installed once there are four wall boards above the bottom of each window opening.

The frames slot down over the wall logs. I used a rubber mallet and spirit level to tap them into position evenly.

If a frame is tight, place a scrap piece of wood on top of the frame and tap gently to avoid damage. One of my frames fitted easily, while the other was slightly tighter.

With the window frames installed, I continued building up the wall logs.

Some of the longer boards were slightly warped, which is normal with timber. With a bit of wiggling and tapping using the mallet, they went into place.

The technical drawings were particularly useful during this stage.

Gable Ends & Roof Purlins

Next, I installed the gable ends and secured them to the walls with screws.

These gables provide the support for the roof purlins. When fitting the purlins, make sure they protrude by equal amounts at each end. This is important for aligning the fascia boards later.

Fitting the Roof

The roof was straight forward to fit. Again, I purchased the 19mm boards for the roof. I wanted extra strength and insulation. The first few were screwed to the walls and purlins using a ladder. Once I had enough to stand on I found it easier to fit the boards whilst on the roof itself.

I first added a layer of the same insulation as the floor before adding the roof boards.

With the roof boards all in place I added tarpaulin as a temporary waterproof solution. This would give me time to complete the windows and doors before adding the felt.

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Fitting Windows & Doors

I upgraded to the double glazed windows and doors, which arrive pre installed into their frames. If you choose single glazing, you will need sealant to fit the glass.

Door Frame Installation

Fit the door frame first.

Make sure:

• Both sides are plumb
• The top is level
• The frame is square

If the frame is even a few millimetres out, the doors will not fit correctly.

Hanging Windows & Doors

Fitting hinges, handles, and casement stays is covered in a separate instruction sheet.

This stage is a little fiddly, but taking your time and working carefully avoids issues. It took me around half a day to fit two windows and two doors.

The hinges allow small adjustments once installed, so minor alignment issues can be corrected later.

Door Handles & Hardware

The doors have pre drilled holes for handles and locks, but some were a little untidy. I cleaned these up with a chisel before fitting the hardware.

If you are unfamiliar with fitting door furniture, there are plenty of good tutorial videos online that walk through the process.

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Interior Finishing, Insulation & Electrics

With the main structure complete, I moved inside to begin the interior finishing.

First, I fitted the internal corner trims using the supplied timber. These were installed along floor edges, wall corners, and the roof line. This closes small gaps and helps lock the wall boards firmly in place.

At this stage I also installed temporary lighting so I could continue working inside after dark.

Insulation & Electrical Sockets (Later Update)

Since completing the initial build, I have fully insulated the cabin and installed electrical sockets throughout.

I have written a separate, detailed post covering the full interior fit out, including:

• Insulation
• Electrics
• Plasterboard and plastering
• Painting
• Ceiling cladding
• Additional storage

You can read the full guide here: How to insulate your BillyOh Garden Room

Below are a few images showing parts of the interior build and insulation process.

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Exterior Finishing & Timber Treatment

Fascia & Barge Boards

Fitting the fascia and barge boards was one of the final exterior jobs.

I made a small adjustment to one fascia board for a clean fit, then nailed all boards into place. I painted these before fitting, which made installation quicker and easier.

Treating & Painting the Log Cabin

Treating your log cabin should be a priority once construction is complete.

I originally chose untreated timber to save money, but if buying again I would choose pressure treated timber for improved longevity.

For finishing, I used Ronseal Fence Life Plus Midnight Blue Matt Fence & Shed Treatment. One 5L tub was enough to cover the entire cabin, and it took around four coats to achieve a good finish.

Painting around hinges and handles was fiddly. Some people may prefer to paint doors and windows before fitting hardware.

I also applied additional coats to the fascia and barge boards for extra protection.

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Front Decking Area

I wanted a small decking area at the front of the garden office to provide:

• A clear walkway through the double doors
• A place to sit and enjoy the sun

I used 32mm thick decking boards, which comfortably span the 500mm joist spacing.

Boards were cut to length using a mitre saw and hand saw, with some cut lengthways using a jigsaw. All boards were fixed using decking screws.

Because the decking boards were similar thickness to the bearers, they slid neatly underneath the wall line.

I finished the front edge using an upside down decking board to hide the joists and weed membrane. I also filled the gaps with 20mm gravel to leave a tidy finish.

The finished unit looks great, and I have since added additional storage to the side of the building for tools and equipment.

Final Verdict: BillyOh Kent Log Cabin Review (After 4 Years)

After four years of daily use, I am still happy with my BillyOh Kent log cabin.

This was a budget garden office build that cost under £6k for a fully insulated workspace, and for that price it has performed very well. It is not a lifetime building, but with regular maintenance I expect many more years of use.

The structure remains solid, the interior still looks great, and the roof has held up well. Some external timber and hardware show cosmetic ageing, which is to be expected at this price point.

I use the cabin every day for work, relaxation, gaming, and small product photography, and it has become one of the most useful spaces in our home.

If you are comfortable with DIY and want a cost effective way to create a garden office, the BillyOh Kent log cabin is a solid option.

My only real regret is not choosing a larger size.

Before and after

Building Restrictions & Planning Permission

Before ordering any log cabin or garden office, it is important to check whether planning permission or building regulations apply to your project.

In many cases, garden buildings fall under permitted development, but size, height, location, and intended use can change this.

I have written a detailed guide covering what you need to know, including common restrictions and examples:

Planning Permission for Garden Rooms and Log Cabins (Full Guide)

Always check with your local planning authority if you are unsure.

Tools, Skill Level & Build Time

Tools Required

You will not need every tool listed below, but having most of them will make the build quicker and easier.

Tool	Purpose
Cordless combi drill & impact driver	General fixing and assembly
Drill bit set	Pilot holes and fixings
Tape measure (5m)	Measuring components
Pencil	Marking cuts
Hand saw	Basic cutting
Sliding mitre saw	Accurate straight cuts
Jigsaw	Cut-outs and trimming
Hammer	Nailing
Rubber mallet	Tapping logs into place
Set square	Squaring corners
Chisel	Cleaning up cut-outs

Skill Level

This build is suitable for competent DIYers and anyone comfortable working with timber. Previous experience using power tools is helpful but not essential. If you follow the instructions carefully, the build is fairly straightforward.

Build Time

• Main structure: 2 to 3 days
• Finishing, insulation, and painting: 2 to 3 days
• Total build (including base): around 7 days working alone

You can hire someone to assemble it, but expect labour time of up to two weeks, which will significantly increase costs.

Additional BillyOh resources

Here are a few additional resources for BillyOh sheds and garden buildings that might help you find the right fit for your home and garden.

• BillyOh shed reviews
• BillyOh Kent log cabin instructions – BillyOh log cabin assembly instructions
• How to insulate a shed, summer house or garden room – How to insulate your garden building
• BillOh Kent Garden Office options
• Pre-insulated garden rooms and garden offices
• Find further Billyoh reviews here on Amazon

This has been an impartial review of the BillyOh Kent Garden Office 3m x 4m (28mm). I was not paid to write this review but I may receive a small commission if you buy one of their products via one of my links. If you have found this review useful and are looking to buy a BillyOh product then please support me by buying via one of my links.