When a customer asked me to hide her existing cooker extractor fan, I saw a great opportunity to build a custom DIY cooker hood cover that would complement the rest of her kitchen.
The existing 595mm extractor hood worked perfectly well, but its stainless steel appearance didn’t suit the kitchen’s decorative style. She wanted something that would conceal the hood and its controls from eye level while keeping the extraction and lighting fully functional.
We discussed two designs: a tapered housing or a straight, square enclosure. She preferred the square design, inspired by an image she’d found online.
Having seen similar range hood covers gaining popularity online, I was keen to try something new and put my carpentry skills to the test. Using a simple timber frame, MDF panels and decorative moulding, I completed the project in just 5 hours, with around £80 spent on materials. If you’ve not built a concealing enclosure before, my guide on how to build your own radiator cover uses a very similar frame and MDF approach.
Here’s how I built it, step by step.
What Is a Cooker Hood Cover?
A cooker hood cover is a decorative enclosure built around an existing kitchen extractor fan to conceal its appearance while keeping it functional. Also known as a range hood cover in the US, it’s a popular way to create a more traditional, built-in look without replacing a perfectly good extractor.
Most DIY cooker hood covers are constructed using a timber frame with MDF or plywood panels. Decorative mouldings and paint can then be added to match the surrounding kitchen cabinets and other design features.
There are two common styles:
- Square cooker hood cover: A straight-sided, box-shaped enclosure that runs vertically from the extractor to the ceiling.
- Tapered cooker hood cover: A wider base that gradually narrows towards the ceiling, creating a traditional chimney-style appearance.
Whichever design you choose, it’s important to maintain the extractor’s required ventilation, safety clearances and access for maintenance.
Tools and Materials
Building this DIY cooker hood cover required only a few basic materials and woodworking tools. I used 18mm MDF for the enclosure, although 9mm or 12mm MDF would also work and reduce the overall weight.
Materials
- 18mm MDF sheets – For the front, sides and lower fascia of the cooker hood housing.
- Planed timber battens (32 x 50 mm) – To construct the supporting framework around the existing extractor.
- FSC Pine Decorative Profile (12 x 31mm) – To create the decorative trim around the lower section.
- Wood screws – For securing the timber framework.
- Panel pins or brad nails – For fixing the MDF panels and decorative mouldings.
- Wood filler and decorators’ caulk – To conceal fixings and tidy up joints before painting.
- MDF primer and paint – For the final decorative finish.
Total materials cost: Approximately £80
Tools
- Circular saw or table saw
- Mitre saw
- Drill/driver
- Nail gun (or hammer and panel pins)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Pocket hole jig
- Laser level – I recommend the Lasgoo LG-3D
- Spirit level
- Sandpaper or orbital sander
I already owned the tools needed for this project, so the only expense was the timber, MDF, mouldings and fixings. The complete cooker hood cover took around five hours to build, excluding painting.
Planning and Measuring the Cooker Hood Cover
Before building the timber frame, I carefully measured the width, height and depth of the existing cooker hood. I also checked whether it was installed straight and level. Unfortunately, it was slightly crooked, which meant I had to allow for this when positioning the new enclosure.
The property was also quite old, with some very uneven walls. This made getting everything square particularly challenging.
Using a Laser Level
I’d strongly recommend using a laser level for this project. I positioned mine underneath the extractor hood and projected accurate reference lines onto the walls and ceiling. This allowed me to mark out the timber framework and ensure the finished cooker hood cover would be straight and square, despite the uneven walls.
A traditional spirit level will work, but it’s much more awkward when transferring measurements between walls and ceilings, particularly in older properties.
Allowing for Clearance and Access
When planning the enclosure, there were a few important considerations:
- Overhang: I designed the cover to extend approximately 40mm beyond the extractor, concealing the metal housing and controls from eye level.
- Controls and maintenance: The extractor’s buttons still needed to be accessible from underneath, along with access for cleaning and servicing.
- Lighting: I checked the position of the nearby ceiling spotlight to ensure the enclosure wouldn’t interfere with it.
- Electrical wiring: Before drilling into the walls or ceiling, I considered the location of concealed cables and electrical fittings.
- Ventilation and safety: The enclosure needed to preserve the extractor’s ventilation openings and comply with the manufacturer’s required clearances.
Finally, I covered the glass induction hob with a soft towel to protect it from scratches and debris while working.
My tip: Don’t assume your walls, ceiling or existing extractor are perfectly straight. Taking extra time to measure and mark everything accurately will make building and fitting the MDF panels much easier.
How to Build a Cooker Hood Cover: Step-by-Step
With the measurements complete and the reference lines marked using my laser level, it was time to build the timber framework and fit the MDF panels. Here’s how I constructed this DIY cooker hood cover, from the ceiling frame through to the decorative finishing touches.
Here’s an image of the starting point.
Step 1: Build the Ceiling Frame
Start by measuring and cutting the two timber side pieces for the ceiling frame. Position them along your marked lines and secure them to the ceiling using suitable 50mm screws and wall plugs, where appropriate for the ceiling construction.
Next, measure and cut the front piece, securing it between the two sides to complete the upper framework.
Use your laser level to check that everything is square and correctly aligned. This is particularly important if you’re working with uneven walls, as I was.
Tip: Check what you’re fixing into before drilling. Plasterboard alone won’t provide sufficient support, so make sure the frame is securely anchored into suitable structural material.
Step 2: Fit the Side Wall Supports
Measure and cut the two timber battens that will run vertically down the walls on either side of the cooker hood.
Position these against your laser reference lines and secure them using suitable 50mm screws and wall plugs.
Check that both supports are plumb and correctly positioned before moving on. These will provide fixing points for the MDF side panels.
Step 3: Install the Front Corner Supports
Next, measure and cut the two vertical timber pieces that form the front corners of the cooker hood enclosure.
I used a pocket hole jig to create concealed fixing holes at the top of each piece. This allowed me to secure the vertical supports neatly to the ceiling framework without visible screw heads.
A pocket hole system is particularly useful here because it creates strong, tidy joints in an otherwise awkward position.
Make sure both corner supports are perfectly vertical and aligned with the front of the ceiling frame.
Step 4: Complete the Timber Framework
With the main supports installed, measure and cut the remaining horizontal timber pieces for the sides and front of the enclosure.
Secure these between the vertical supports using 50mm wood screws, creating a rigid framework around the existing extractor.
I positioned the lower framework just above the cooker hood, avoiding direct contact with the appliance.
Important: Extractor fans can vibrate during operation. If the timber frame touches the metal housing, it could create an annoying rattling noise. Leave suitable clearance and follow the manufacturer’s installation requirements.
At this stage, you should have a complete timber framework ready for the MDF panels.
Step 5: Measure and Fit the MDF Side Panels
Now it’s time to cover the framework with MDF.
I used 18mm MDF, although 9mm or 12mm sheets would also be suitable for many similar projects, provided the framework offers sufficient support.
Getting a neat fit against uneven walls was one of the trickiest parts of this build.
Rather than trying to calculate every irregularity, I used a simple method:
- Measure the longest width and height required for each panel. For example, 470mm × 450mm.
- Cut the MDF slightly oversized to these measurements.
- Hold the panel against the timber framework in its intended position.
- Mark the excess material with a pencil, following the required profile.
- Trim along your marked lines and test-fit the panel.
This method helped me achieve a much neater fit against the wonky walls.
Once I was happy with the fit, I secured the MDF to the timber framework using my nail gun and 50mm brad nails. These leave very small holes that are almost invisible once filled and painted.
Step 6: Fit the Front MDF Panel
With both side panels fitted, measure and cut the front MDF panel using the same approach.
Check the dimensions carefully and allow for any irregularities in the ceiling or adjoining panels.
Position the MDF against the framework, ensuring the edges meet neatly, then secure it using brad nails or small countersunk screws.
The cooker hood cover should now resemble a simple square enclosure, ready for the decorative details.
Step 7: Add the Lower Decorative MDF Trim
To give the cover a more traditional appearance, I created a lower overlapping fascia using offcuts of MDF.
This added depth to the bottom of the enclosure and helped conceal the existing extractor from eye level.
I started with the two side pieces before measuring and cutting the front section.
For a more decorative finish, I cut a slight taper along the upper edge of each piece using my circular saw set to 10 degrees. This created a neat transition between the lower fascia and the main enclosure.
Each piece was carefully positioned and secured using brad nails.
Step 8: Fit the Decorative Pine Moulding
The final decorative detail was the pine moulding, which gave the cooker hood cover a more finished, traditional appearance.
I used 12 × 31mm FSC pine decorative moulding, measuring and cutting each section to fit around the lower part of the enclosure.
After checking the fit and corner joints, I secured the moulding using No More Nails grab adhesive.
This avoided the need for visible fixings and helped achieve a clean finish.
Allow the adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions before carrying out any further finishing work.
Step 9: Fill, Caulk and Sand
With all the MDF panels and mouldings installed, the construction was complete.
I filled the nail holes and small imperfections with suitable wood filler and applied decorators’ caulk to the joints and gaps around the enclosure.
Once everything had dried, I sanded the filled areas smooth, ready for painting.
Take your time with this stage, as any visible gaps or rough edges will become more noticeable once painted.
Step 10: Prime and Paint the Cooker Hood Cover
I left the finished enclosure unpainted for the customer to decorate alongside the rest of her kitchen.
For the best results, I’d recommend:
- Lightly sanding the MDF and removing any dust.
- Applying a suitable MDF primer, paying particular attention to exposed edges.
- Lightly sanding the primed surfaces if necessary.
- Applying two coats of your chosen interior paint, allowing sufficient drying time between coats.
Choose a durable finish suitable for kitchen conditions and the temperatures around the extractor.
Once painted, the cooker hood cover should blend neatly into the surrounding kitchen design, giving the existing extractor a much more attractive, built-in appearance.
The finished result: A custom decorative cooker hood cover built in approximately five hours, using around £80 worth of materials, without needing to replace the existing extractor fan.
How Much Does a DIY Cooker Hood Cover Cost?
Building your own DIY cooker hood cover is a relatively inexpensive way to transform the appearance of your kitchen without replacing the existing extractor fan.
For this project, I spent approximately £80 on materials, including MDF, timber battens, decorative pine moulding and fixings. The entire build took me around 5 hours to complete, excluding painting.
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| MDF, timber, moulding and fixings | Approximately £80 |
| Labour time | 5 hours |
| Painting | Not included |
| Total DIY materials cost | £80 |
The cost will depend on the size of your extractor, the thickness of MDF and the decorative details you choose. You may also be able to save money by using leftover timber or MDF from previous projects.
If you’re paying a carpenter to build a bespoke cooker hood housing, you’ll also need to factor in labour costs.
For anyone comfortable with basic woodworking, this is a manageable weekend project that can make a significant difference to the appearance of a kitchen.
Cooker Hood Cover Ideas and Designs
One of the advantages of building a custom cooker hood cover is that you can design it to complement your existing kitchen rather than settling for a standard stainless-steel extractor.
Here are a few design options worth considering:
- Square cooker hood cover: A simple, straight-sided enclosure that works particularly well in modern and traditional kitchens. This is the style I built for my customer.
- Tapered range hood cover: A wider base that narrows towards the ceiling, creating a more traditional chimney-style appearance.
- Shaker-style cover: Add simple timber trim or recessed panel detailing to match Shaker kitchen cabinets.
- Decorative moulding: Use pine mouldings or a more elaborate lower fascia to create a classic, bespoke appearance.
- Natural wood finish: Use suitable plywood or timber cladding instead of MDF to introduce natural grain and warmth.
Choosing a Paint Colour
Painting the enclosure to match your kitchen cabinets is an effective way to create a seamless, built-in appearance.
White, cream and warm neutral shades work particularly well with traditional kitchens, while sage green, charcoal and navy can create a more distinctive feature.
For my customer’s kitchen, the decorative moulding was designed to complement the surrounding traditional features and natural stone wall.
My recommendation: Keep the design relatively simple and use moulding to add character. A well-proportioned cooker hood cover doesn’t need elaborate detailing to look professional.
This type of timber-frame construction can also be adapted for much larger projects. I used similar framing and plasterboard techniques when I built a media wall with a TV and fireplace, where the frame was designed around the exact dimensions of the appliances and finished to look like a permanent part of the room.
DIY Cooker Hood Cover FAQs
Can you cover an existing cooker extractor hood?
Yes, many existing extractor hoods can be concealed within a custom decorative enclosure, provided the appliance is suitable for this type of installation.
The cover must not obstruct ventilation openings, interfere with extraction or prevent access to controls, filters and other serviceable components. Always check the manufacturer’s installation instructions before building around an existing unit.
Can you use MDF for a cooker hood cover?
MDF is a popular material for decorative cooker hood covers because it’s affordable, easy to cut and provides a smooth surface for painting.
I used 18mm MDF for my project, although 9mm or 12mm may be suitable for lighter enclosures with adequate timber support.
However, MDF is combustible and can be affected by moisture and heat. Only use it where the extractor manufacturer’s instructions permit combustible enclosure materials, and keep it outside any required clearance zones. Seal exposed edges and use a suitable kitchen paint finish.
How do you access the extractor fan for maintenance?
Before building the enclosure, check how the extractor’s grease filters, controls and other serviceable components are accessed.
On my customer’s cooker hood, the filters and controls were accessible from underneath, so I designed the enclosure to keep this area clear.
Some extractors may also require access to internal components or ducting. If necessary, incorporate a removable panel into the design so the appliance can be serviced without damaging the enclosure.
What clearance is required around a cooker hood?
There isn’t one universal clearance measurement for every cooker hood. The required distances depend on the extractor model, hob type and manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Check the specified minimum distance between the hob and extractor, as well as any ventilation gaps and clearances required around the appliance.
For my project, I allowed approximately 40mm of decorative overhang to help conceal the existing hood from eye level. This was a design measurement, not a recommended safety clearance.
Can you build a cooker hood cover without removing the extractor?
Yes. I constructed my cooker hood cover around the existing wall-mounted extractor without removing it.
The timber framework was fixed independently to the walls and ceiling, with the MDF panels attached afterwards.
This approach can save considerable time, but you’ll need to work carefully around the existing appliance and ensure the enclosure doesn’t interfere with its operation or future maintenance.
How long does it take to build a cooker hood cover?
My custom MDF cooker hood cover took approximately 5 hours to build, including the timber framework, MDF panels, decorative moulding and filling.
Allow additional time for priming and painting, particularly if you’re applying multiple coats.
The biggest challenge for me was working around the uneven walls and slightly crooked extractor in this older property. In a modern kitchen with straight walls, the process could be considerably quicker.
