If you’re looking to build a wooden walkway on the ground for your garden, this DIY project shows how I created a simple, durable wooden garden path using reclaimed scaffold boards. The entire build took around three days and cost roughly £300.
I needed a practical way to connect our patio to the back of the garden where the shed and workshop sit, while also solving ongoing muddy patches caused by worn grass. After considering gravel, paving, and stepping stones, I chose a wooden boardwalk because it was quicker to build, budget-friendly, and well-suited to a DIY approach.
Using reclaimed timber not only kept costs down but also allowed me to paint the walkway to match existing decking and create a cohesive look, especially around the pond area. The result is a functional, attractive wood walkway that has significantly improved both access and appearance.
Table of Contents
Ground Level vs Raised Wooden Walkways
Before starting your project, it helps to decide whether you need a ground-level wooden walkway like mine or a raised wooden boardwalk, as each suits different garden conditions.
A ground-level wooden walkway sits close to the soil with minimal elevation. This type of wooden garden path is easier to build, more affordable than a slab path, and works best in flat gardens with good drainage.
A raised wooden walkway or boardwalk is built above ground using supports or footings. This option is ideal for areas with poor drainage, uneven ground, slopes, or where the path needs to pass over features such as ponds or boggy soil.
Which should you choose?
- Choose a ground level wooden walkway for lawn paths and garden borders.
- Choose a raised wooden walkway where the ground stays wet or where a level surface is needed.
What Materials Were Required?
To build this wooden walkway on ground, I mainly used reclaimed materials alongside a few standard building supplies from local builder merchants. I tend to avoid the big retailers such as B&Q and Wickes as they are very expensive. I prefer Jewsons or Travis Perkins as the pricing is much more favourable.
Using reclaimed timber and paving helped me keep costs low while still creating a strong and durable wooden garden path.
Materials List
- Reclaimed scaffold boards
(Search eBay, Facebook Marketplace or reach out to local scaffold companies directly) - Reclaimed patio slabs or stepping stones
(Also commonly available on Facebook Marketplace) - Sharp sand x 2 bags
- 47mm x 75mm treated carcassing timber 2400mm 3 inch x 2 inch
- Exterior wood screws approximately 400
- Weed control membrane
- Exterior decking paint or wood stain x 2 tins
What Tools Did I Use?
You do not need specialist equipment to build a wooden walkway, but having the right tools will make the job quicker and easier.
Tool List
- Circular saw
- Sliding mitre saw
- Combi drill
- Impact driver
- Set square
- Pencil
- Workbench or sturdy cutting surface
- Orbital sander
How to Build a Boardwalk Path – Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1. Plan Your Route
You’ll want to start off with a plan. Maybe try producing a scale drawing of your garden and plan the layout of you path. We wanted a somewhat organic feel to our path, something that meandered around the features in the garden. So whilst we had a rough drawing of the path, the build process itself was going to dictate the finer detail.
You’ll also want to think about waste at this point. We ordered a small/medium size skip to put all the turf and soil and stones in.
Step 2. Mark out the Area
Using a piece of string, I marked out the rough shape we had planned on our rough drawings. As above, this didn’t need to be precise, as the build itself was going to be organic. You can also use a spray paint marker, such as this one.
Step 3. Remove the Turf
I dug down to a depth of roughly 75mm for the length of the path. At this point I only really needed to dig a channel for the boardwalk support frame. The depth had to be enough for the carcassing timber frame to sit level with the top of the lawn. Additional digging will be required when we add the support slabs.
I wanted the boardwalk to sit above the level of the lawn but it’s up to you if you want it higher or lower. Just remember it’s a good idea to keep the boards from touching the lawn as over time they will rot with any stagnant water sat on them.
Step 4. Preparing and levelling the slabs
The slabs are used to raise the timber frame off the ground. This is to prevent the frame from rotting away. If the frame touches the ground, stagnant water will quickly rot the wood. So to prevent this I laid the frame on raised plinths. The slabs are old stepping stones, some of which I smashed into 4 pieces. For each 2.4m length of frame timber I used 3 points of support, one at each end and one in the middle. If you are cutting different lengths just aim for a support plinth every 1m or so.
It’s a good idea to slightly lower one side of the boardwalk to allow for water run off. So using a spirit level try and ensure one side is about 10mm lower. (depending on the width of your path.)
To ensure a secure level slab I dug a 30mm hole the size of the slab and filled it with sharp sand. The sharp sand provides a more solid base for the slab to sit on and will prevent the slab from moving as the boardwalk is used regularly. You also have the option of using cement at this point for an even more secure plinth. So far however I have found the sand to be sufficient.
As you can see in the above image, I’ve seamlessly joined the wooden boardwalk with our porcelain tile patio. If you want to learn how to lay outdoor tiles you can visit my other article listed at the bottom of this article.
During the dig I came across tree roots and other objects which made the levelling process difficult in places. For some roots I simply cut them out altogether and others I just managed to avoid. If you come across a similar issue you just need to be aware that the roots will grow over time and could make your boardwalk uneven.
Step 5. Building the Frame
I didn’t fix the frame to any of the plinths. I’ve allowed for the weight of the boardwalk to secure it in place. I did however screw the frame into a small concrete section near the patio. This was to prevent any movement as the boards butted up against the patio.
I simply laid each 2.4m length of timber and screwed in a cross support piece and followed this process down the length of the path.
Before you lay down the support frame you should add the weed control fabric. This will sit between the support plinth and frame and cover the whole underside of the boardwalk. This is going to prevent anything growing up through the boards.
Step 6. Cutting and Securing the Boards
Using a circular saw I cut the boards to the correct length and simply screwed them into the frame. Scaffold boards have a tendency to bow and cup so it was important to add a screw into each side of the board. Try using an impact driver here to speed up the process. I didn’t bother with pilot holes when adding the screws as it wasn’t really required. The softwood generally takes the screws quite well. Each piece was carefully measured and cut to the desired size before securing down. I ended up with quite a few off cuts which will end up in the log burner during winter.
All the boards were laid with a 4mm gap between each one. This will allow for a little expansion on the boards as the weather changes. You can use tile spacers or a custom made spacer for this.
I generally used straight cuts on all the pieces, even when navigating around objects like the pond. So although the boardwalk looks curved all boards have straight edges, just at different angles.
Step 7. Treating the Boards
I strongly recommend using a dedicated decking paint on the boards. This paint is specially designed to protect the boards in all weathers. Make sure you buy enough and ensure you have some spare to top up areas that might have closer contact to moisture, like the pond for example.
It’s probably worth painting the boards before you put them down. I found that it was difficult to paint the sides of the boards once they had been secured in place.
We used Cuprinol Urban Slate anti-slip decking paint on our boards. 2 coats. If you want a natural finish on the boards, you can try something like this Ronseal natural decking oil.
What I Would Have Done Differently
Overall I am really happy with how the wooden walkway turned out, but looking back there are a few small changes I would make if I were building it again.
I would keep the width of the wooden walkway consistent along its entire length. A uniform width creates a neater and more professional-looking garden path.
I would also take more time to create smoother curves. Gentle flowing bends look more natural and improve the overall appearance of a wooden garden path.
Finally, I would consider adding lighting poles or low-level garden lights along the edges of the walkway. This would make the path safer to use at night and add an attractive feature after dark.
Top Tips for Building a Wooden Walkway
- Keeping the path footings raised off the ground is essential. Elevating the structure prevents standing water from sitting against the timber and greatly reduces the risk of rot.
- Reclaimed scaffold boards are an excellent budget option. They are strong, widely available, and often cost around £5 for a 12-foot board.
- A solid footing made from patio slabs, concrete blocks, or poured concrete provides long term stability and helps prevent movement or sinking.
- Use pressure-treated or rot-resistant timber wherever possible to extend the lifespan of your wooden walkway.
- Lay weed membrane beneath the path to stop weeds growing through gaps between boards.
- Leave small gaps between boards to allow rainwater to drain away and accommodate natural wood expansion.
- Take time to plan the route and layout before starting. Marking the path with string or spray paint helps visualise curves and spacing.
- Ensure the ground beneath the walkway is level and compacted before placing supports.
- Apply a wood preservative or exterior sealer after installation and recoat periodically to protect against moisture and UV damage.
- In shaded or damp areas, consider using a non-slip treatment to reduce the chance of slipping in wet weather.
Before and after
Conclusion
Building a wooden walkway on the ground using reclaimed scaffold boards is a practical, affordable, and rewarding DIY project that can significantly improve garden access and appearance. With good ground preparation, solid footings, and properly spaced boards, you can create a long-lasting wooden garden path that performs well in all seasons.
If you are thinking about using reclaimed scaffold boards for other projects, such as decking, the construction principles are very similar. Always use plenty of exterior-grade screws and fix boards securely, as scaffold boards can twist or cup with seasonal moisture changes.
With careful planning and regular maintenance, a reclaimed timber wooden boardwalk or path can provide years of reliable use while keeping costs low.
FAQ
What is the difference between a ground level walkway and a raised wooden boardwalk?
A ground level wooden walkway sits close to the soil and is best for flat gardens with good drainage. A raised wooden boardwalk is elevated on supports or footings, which makes it better for wet, boggy, or uneven ground and for areas near ponds.
How do you build a wooden walkway on the ground?
Start by marking out the route and removing turf. Level and compact the ground, add a thin bed of sharp sand if needed, and use solid footings such as patio slabs or concrete blocks. Fix your joists and boards securely and leave small gaps between boards for drainage.
How do you stop a wooden walkway from rotting?
The most important step is keeping the timber raised off the ground so water cannot sit against it. Use solid footings, allow airflow under the structure, and seal or treat the boards for outdoor use.
What wood is best for a wooden garden path?
Pressure treated timber is a popular choice because it is designed for outdoor conditions. Reclaimed scaffold boards can also work well, especially when sealed and kept off the ground using raised supports.
Should you leave gaps between boards on a wooden walkway?
Yes. Small, consistent gaps help rainwater drain away and allow the wood to expand and contract with seasonal moisture changes. This can also reduce cupping and warping over time.
How wide should a wooden walkway be?
A comfortable width for a wooden garden path is usually around 600 to 800 millimetres. If you want two people to pass easily, you may prefer closer to 900 millimetres or more.
How can you light a wooden walkway in the garden?
Low level bollard lights or small lighting poles spaced along the edge of the path work well. Solar lights are a simple option, while mains powered lighting provides brighter and more consistent results.
Boardwalk Ideas and Inspiration
Looking for inspiration for your own wooden walkway or garden boardwalk? Whether you prefer soft curves, modern lines, or something more decorative, there are many ways to design a wooden path that suits your garden and lifestyle. Below are six boardwalk ideas that showcase different layouts, materials, and features to help spark ideas for your next DIY project.
Gallery
Here are a few more images of the wooden boardwalk build process.
You may have seen the in-ground trampoline in some of the pictures. See how we installed this here:
You might also be interested in some of the other DIY garden projects we’ve taken on:
great sharing.
A great share. I’m looking forward to the continuation. Good luck.