Save yourself a bucket load of money by doing this yourself. My brother was quoted over £2000 for a veranda a similar size to mine. I built my DIY veranda for £431.96. So if you want a veranda, canopy, patio cover, pergola or simple lean-to, why not try it yourself and save well over £1000. This veranda was simple enough to build. Any competent DIYer can make this with these simple instructions.
Most competent DIYers can achieve this structure with a few basic tools and a bit of research. It uses the house and good ground supports for structural strength and the canopy for weather protection. The materials I’ve used can be found in most DIY stores like B&Q, Wickes but I’d recommend buying the corrugated sheeting online if you can’t find the correct thickness locally.
We’ve recently added some decking & guttering which cost an additional £450.
Before you get started on your DIY veranda, one important question that many people have asked me is – Does my DIY veranda require planning permission? More often than not you won’t need planning permission but check the below list and keep your construction within the guidelines. You can also check the UK Planning Portal for more information and it’s always worth checking with your local planning department before you get started.
Another thing is to make sure you don’t want to extend your home any time soon. We had been debating a downstairs extension, so we waited to add on a veranda until we had firmly decided we were not going ahead with the extension. Otherwise we’d be removing the entire veranda and putting it on the back of our new extension which would be a lot of wasted effort. If you are thinking of adding an extension then you might want to wait too as it would be quite a task to remove the veranda and rebuild it again, plus it risks getting damaged and costing you more in the long run to replace parts. If you are thinking of an extension then check out your local extension builders north London or nearby for quotes before you get started on your veranda.
Veranda planning permission requirements:
- Must not be wider than the existing building.
- The maximum depth for a single storey building must not exceed 3000mm for an attached building and 4000mm for a detached building.
- The maximum height must not exceed 4000mm.
- The maximum height of the eaves within 2000mm of a boundary shall not be greater than 3000mm.
- Raised platforms must not exceed 300mm.
- No extension in front of the main elevation or side elevation fronting a public highway.
- The total area of ground covered by the veranda must not exceed 50% of the land around the original house.
Hopefully you now have a good idea of the size and shape of your veranda but if you want to try this yourself then you’re going to need a few basic tools. So essentials will including a good drill with a mix of different size wood and masonry bits, circular saw, handsaw, jigsaw, hammer, chisel, tape measure, protractor, set square and pencil.
After deciding the size of the veranda I needed to check if it would actually fit under the eaves of our roof. We live in a chalet bungalow, therefore the roof comes down quite low, so I had to decide whether the top edge of the veranda would go over the roof eave or under. Luckily the eave was just high enough to go under and allow enough run off to the end of the veranda without going too low. The measurements are:
- Top edge height (under eave)- 2400mm
- Bottom edge height – 2150mm
- Length – 2400mm
- Width – 6900mm
I was initially concerned with the run off angle of the roof (the pitch) to avoid water becoming stagnant. In the end I ended up with a 4 degree pitch which was just enough. Water tends to sit much easier on plastic than with glass so bear this in mind when planning your own.
With this being nearly 7m wide I knew two support posts weren’t going to be enough, but three post would be fine. We considered protruding 3 meters into the garden but decided that 2.4 meters was enough. The 3m length would have cost about an additional £120.
I used building grade wood for the structure and some basic 2×1 pine for the purlins. If you want a chunky, stable build then look for C16 building certified wood. I shopped around and struggled to find a reasonable priced merchant with good delivery prices. In the end I found a great merchant on eBay with great prices and free next day delivery. See below for sourcing timber.
I also purchased all the other items from various sellers on eBay including the 100 x 100 support posts, galvanised steel support post fixings, Vistalux corrugated heavyweight (1.1mm) plastic roofing sheets and Vistalux roofing sheet fixings. Try and avoid the thinner 0.8mm Vistalux sheets (from B&Q) as they don’t tend to last as long and will be noisy in the rain. The thicker the better. Make sure they are 1.1mm or 1.3mm.
I like shopping on eBay as the prices are generally much better than anywhere else and you can read seller ratings and feedback before you buy. My other items were purchased at a local B&Q who also offer delivery on bulky items if you don’t have suitable transport. Check it out here.
Materials list for DIY veranda
- 150 x Vistalux fixings
- 10 x 2440mm corrugated PVC sheets (1.1mm) (weather proof roofing)
- 3 x galvanised 100 x 100mm post supports (for fixing the support posts to the floor)
- 12 x 2.4m 6×2 (47x150mm) C16 treated timber (for the rafters)
- 2 x 3.6m 4×2 (47x100mm) C16 treated timber (rear wall fixed supports)
- 2 x 3.6m 6×2 (47x150mm) C24 treated timber (outer supports that fit onto the support posts)
- 16 x 1.8m (9x18mm) pine wood (for the purlins)
- 3 x 2.4m 100x100mm treated timber (support posts)
- 12 x 120mm hex drew bolts M10 and wall plugs (for fixing the 4×2 to the house wall)
- 12 x 60mm hex bolts M10 and plugs (for securing the post supports to the floor)
- 6 x 110mm M10 bolts and nuts (including washers)
- Assortment of screws
To complete this job consider investing in a few essential tools. This are what I recommend but you can compromise where your budget won’t allow:
- Drill driver and impact driver – It’s always cheaper to by the set – Dewalt combi set
- A circular saw – Dewalt cordless Circular Saw
- A jigsaw – Dewalt cordless Jigsaw
- Socket and drill set – Makita 50 piece set
- Handsaw – 22″ 8TPi saw
- Tape measure – 8m is ideal for this job
- A protractor – try this one
- Set square – or roofers square
- Pencil – carpenters pencil
- Metal ruler – or aluminium
Save money on tools and materials
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How to build a veranda – Step by step guide
Step 1. Support post fixings
Measure everything up and find the equal distance for the 3 posts to be placed. Don’t go right up to the edges of the veranda. Come in about 300mm each end and 200mm towards the house along the rafter. Place the support on the floor and mark where the four holes will go. Drill the four holes with a masonry bit and insert the plugs. Make sure you have a good drill with hammer action for this or you will be there all day. This was one of the most difficult parts of the build even with a good drill. Bolt each corner down and repeat with the other two support posts.
Step 2. Support posts
Prepare the support posts. Your two 6×2 timbers will sit on these so you will need to cut a section out the top. (47x150mm) Measure the total height, in my case it was 2000mm plus the 150mm for the cross beams so 2150mm total. Cut 250mm off the top with the circular saw then mark up the insert for the cross beams and cut this section out. Once complete insert the posts into the supports. They should be a tight fit and stand on their own.
Step 3. Cross beam supports
Attach the cross beams (3600x47x150mm). To ensure I had good support all the way along the two beams I cut both at an angle and attached and bolted together on the centre support post. To do this just clamp or tie the two posts together and cut one end of both beams with the circular saw at an angle. As I did this bit on my own I used a couple of the other pieces to help me steady everything whilst I drilled and attached the M10 bolts.
Step 4. House support beams
Fitting the 3.6m (47x100mm) beams to the house was next, and a rather tough job. Drilling into brick again was not easy as I had to go into the wall by about 80mm. I selected a total of 10 points along the wall, drilled, plugged and fastened the beams whilst tightening with a ratchet spanner.
Step 5. The rafters
The rafters. This was relatively easy once I worked out the angles to cut. To ensure the rafters fit under the eaves of the house I had to cut an indent into the wood and again at the other end to ensure I kept the 4 degree run off. To calculate the rafter cut angles I used this online triangle calculator. The below image might help you understand how I achieved this.
Please note: I did make a mistake at this point. I measured and cut the wood from each end. What I hadn’t realised is that each bit of wood was slightly different in length which meant the cuts on each one were slightly out. Luckily I noticed my mistake early on and marked all the rafters from one piece and one end to ensure they were all the same. I also cut each piece to the same length.
After cutting all the notches with the circular saw and jigsaw I marked up 12 equal points along the DIY veranda and slotted each one into place. Then I fastened each one into place with screws along the top at the front and edges along the wall. That was the structural part done. Now on to the roofing.
Step 6. The purlins
The roofing on the DIY veranda had to be supported by purlins which are the smaller lengths of wood that fit crossways along the rafters. These are to ensure you get good support and fixing points along the veranda for the roofing sheets. I went for quite a small purlin (9x18mm) but in hindsight I should have gone for something a little bigger. These felt a little flimsy and were warped in places.
The final job was to fix the roofing sheets to the purlins. This meant climbing up a ladder and screwing pilot holes along the sheets. I placed 3 rows of purlins and a total of 15 screws per sheet. It’s important that you use the correct roof fixings to secure the sheets in place. These capped screws will protect from water leaking through the sheets. Just ensure the screw points are at the top of the corrugated curve, not in the dip.
Make sure you use enough to secure each piece in place. You don’t want your sail like sheets flying off in a strong wind. I’ve heard you can get fixings with drill like ends (self taping) which you can screw straight into the PVC and wood without having to pre-drill pilot holes.
Step 7. Finishing the DIY veranda
This takes us up to the finished DIY veranda project. Now all we need is some nice decking and furniture to enjoy our new outdoor space and maybe an electric patio heater for cooler afternoons to comfortably enjoy a cup of tea! But that’s for another time. Please feel free to comment below and share your experiences.
Update March 2020. I’ve recently added some decking and guttering which cost an additional £450. It’s also had a lick of paint. Click here to read how to install the decking.
If you’re not up for the challenge then why not consider one of these alternatives:
Before and after pictures for this DIY veranda. Read about the DIY decking here.
As you can see we’ve recently renewed the patio. Read all about this DIY porcelain patio here. The DIY veranda, decking and patio make the perfect combination.
Readers DIY veranda
Here are a few pictures from one of my readers Jon. He’s done an amazing job with added trellis walls and railings to add some privacy and divide between this and the rest of the outdoor space. Proper job!
Save more money on your DIY veranda
If you are interested in saving a bit of money for all your DIY projects why not take advantage of a cash back site like ‘TopCashBack‘. I used this site for all my online purchases and accumulated well over £1000 in just 3 years. A nice little bonus for some new tools! My wife has also been using TopCashback and together we’ve generated over £2800. Here’s a screenshot of my current earnings.
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