Building your own veranda is one of the most cost-effective ways to add a sheltered outdoor living space to your home. If you’re searching for how to build a veranda, a simple lean-to, or a DIY patio cover, this step-by-step guide shows exactly how I built a solid wooden veranda using readily available materials and basic tools.
This project is well within reach of most competent DIYers. The structure is fixed to the house for support, anchored into solid ground, and finished with a durable corrugated roof to provide reliable weather protection. It has completely changed how we use our garden, giving us a comfortable place to sit and relax in both sun and rain.
All of the timber and fixings used can be sourced from standard UK DIY stores. For the roofing sheets, I recommend using 1.1mm thick corrugated sheeting rather than the thinner 0.8mm versions commonly sold in stores. The thicker material lasts longer, feels sturdier, and is noticeably quieter during heavy rain. Alternatively, you can opt for solid polycarbonate sheets, which are very much like glass. You can see examples in my solid polycarbonate roof veranda build here.
I installed some decking & guttering after the veranda had been completed.
Table of Contents
- Planning Permission, Building Regulations & Permitted Development (UK)
- Tools Required to Build a DIY Veranda
- How to Build a Veranda – Step-by-Step Guide
- DIY Veranda Kits (UK): Are They Worth It?
- Readers DIY Veranda
- My top posts
- How to Build a Shed from Scratch – Step-by-Step Guide
- How to Build a Garden Office From Scratch – On a Budget
- How to Build Your Own Decking Area on a Budget
- How to Make a DIY Veranda With a Solid Polycarbonate Roof
- BillyOh Kent Log Cabin Review & Build Guide (After 4 Years of Use)
- How to Insulate Your BillyOh Garden Office Log Cabin
- Related
Planning Permission, Building Regulations & Permitted Development (UK)
Before building a DIY veranda or lean-to, it’s important to check whether your project falls under permitted development or requires planning permission.
In many cases, a small, open-sided veranda attached to a house can be built under permitted development, meaning no planning application is needed. However, you will usually need permission if:
- Your property is listed
- Your home is in a conservation area, National Park, or AONB
- The structure exceeds size or height limits
- The veranda is in front of the main elevation facing a highway
General permitted development guidance can be found via the UK Planning Portal, but always confirm with your local council.
Typical Permitted Development Rules for Verandas (UK)
Based on current general guidance and permitted development rules in England, a veranda or lean-to extension normally must meet all of the following to avoid requiring planning permission:
- Must not be wider than the existing house
- Maximum depth:
- 3,000mm for an attached structure
- 4,000mm for a detached structure
- Maximum overall height: 3,000mm
- Maximum eaves height within 2,000mm of a boundary: 3,000mm
- Raised platforms must not exceed 300mm
- No extension forward of the main elevation or a side elevation facing a public highway
- Total ground area covered by extensions must not exceed 50% of the land surrounding the original house
These limits are intended as general guidance only and may vary depending on location and local authority interpretation. Always confirm your specific project using the UK Planning Portal or with your local planning department before ordering materials.
Building Regulations
Even where planning permission isn’t required, building regulations may still apply, particularly if the veranda is enclosed, structurally integrated with the house, or includes electrics. Open-sided canopies and simple lean-to structures are often exempt, but it’s wise to check with Building Control.
Tip: Confirm requirements before purchasing materials to avoid costly changes later.
Materials & Estimated Costs for DIY Veranda (UK) Updated for 2026
| Item / Material | Specification / Size | Use | Approx. Cost (UK) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Treated Timber Posts | 100×100mm, 2.4m | Support posts | £27 |
| Support Beams | 100×47mm, 3.6m | House support | £17 |
| Cross Beams | 150×47mm, 3.6m | Front beam | £26 |
| Rafters | 100×47mm, 2.4m | Roof rafters | £11 |
| Purlins | 50×25mm, 3.6m | Corrugated sheet support | £5 |
| Roofing Sheets | Corrugated (e.g., 1.1mm thickness) | Roof covering | £25 |
| Roofing Screws | Weatherproof fixings with rubber washer | Sheet fixings | £24 (pack of 100) |
| Coach Bolts | 110mm bolts + washers | Beam fixings | £6 |
| Masonry Bolts | 120mm bolts + washers | House beam fixings | £7 |
| Masonry Wall Plugs | For drill fixings | Wall anchors | £12 (pack of 20) |
| Post Shoes | Metal supports | Anchor posts to ground | £10 |
| Exterior Paint / Stain | Wood preservative/coating | Finish & protection | £29 |
| Misc. Fixings | Screws, nails, washers | Various | £30 |
The total cost of your own veranda will depend on size and spec.
Tools Required to Build a DIY Veranda
Most of the tools needed for this DIY veranda build are standard items found in a typical home workshop. You don’t need any specialist equipment.
| Tool | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Tape Measure | Measuring timber lengths and layout |
| Spirit Level | Ensuring posts and beams are level |
| Pencil / Marker | Marking cuts and fixing points |
| Circular Saw | Cutting beams, rafters, and notches |
| Panel Hand Saw | Finishing cuts and trimming |
| Jigsaw | Cutting notches and detailed shaping |
| Combi Drill / Driver | Drilling holes and driving screws |
| Masonry Drill Bits | Wall and floor fixings |
| Wood Drill Bits | Timber pilot holes |
| Socket Set or Spanners | Tightening bolts |
| Screwdriver Bits | Driving screws |
| Ladder | Accessing roof level |
| Clamps (optional) | Holding timber while cutting |
| Safety Glasses | Eye protection |
| Work Gloves | Hand protection |
| Ear Protection | Hearing safety |
My personal recommendation for a high-quality combi drill and impact driver is the DeWalt 18V XR Brushless Twin Kit 2 x 4AH Batteries – DCK266M2T-GB. I use this drill and driver almost daily and it’s never let me down.
How to Build a Veranda – Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Position & Fix the Support Post Shoes
Start by marking out the positions for your three front support posts. These should be evenly spaced across the width of the veranda, but not positioned right on the edges.
- Come in approximately 300mm from each outer edge
- Set the post line around 200mm towards the house along the rafter line. e.g. if your rafters are 3000mm long, place the post 200mm in from the end.
Once happy with the layout:
- Place a post shoe in position and mark the four fixing holes
- Drill the holes using a masonry bit suitable for your fixings
- Insert wall plugs into each hole
- Secure the post shoe using 60mm M8 masonry bolts
- Repeat for the remaining two post shoes
Take time at this stage to ensure all post shoes are square, aligned, and level, as this will make the rest of the build much easier.
Step 2: Cut & Install the Support Posts
Each front support post needs a notched section at the top to accept the two 47 × 150mm (6×2) cross beams that will carry the roof structure.
Start by determining the finished post height:
- Measure from ground level to the underside of your proposed beams
- In my case, this was 2000mm, plus 150mm for the beam depth
- Total post length = 2150mm
- Cut each post to the required length using a panel saw
- Mark the 47 × 150mm notch at the top of each post
- Use a circular saw to make multiple relief cuts, then finish with a panel saw
- Clean up the notch so the beams sit neatly inside
Once complete:
- Insert each post into its metal post shoe
- The posts should fit snugly and stand upright without support
Check that all posts are plumb and level before moving on.
Step 3: Fit the Cross Beams
The cross beams form the main horizontal support for the veranda roof. In this build, two 3600 × 47 × 150mm (6×2) timbers are joined at the centre post to create a strong, continuous beam across the front.
To achieve a neat, strong joint:
- Cut one beam end at a 55° angle using a circular saw
- Place this angled cut on top of the second beam and trace the angle with a pencil
- Cut along the pencil line on the second beam so both ends match
- Position the two beams on top of the support posts, meeting at the centre post
- Drill through the beams and into the posts
- Secure using 110mm coach bolts and washers
This angled joint increases the contact area between the two beams and provides solid support at the centre post.
Before tightening fully, check that the beams are level and aligned, then tighten all fixings securely.
Step 4: Fix the House Support Beams
The next stage is to attach the 3.6m × 47 × 100mm support beams to the house wall. These beams will carry the rear of the veranda roof structure.
- Mark a level horizontal line across the wall at the required height
- Hold the beam in position and mark your fixing points along its length
- Using a masonry bit and hammer drill, drill approximately 65mm into the wall at each mark
- Insert wall plugs into all holes
- Secure the beam using 120mm masonry bolts and washers
For this build, I used 10 fixing points spaced evenly along the beam to ensure solid support.
Before tightening fully, recheck that the beam is level, then tighten all fixings securely.
Step 5: Cut & Install the Rafters
Once the correct angles are worked out, fitting the rafters is fairly straightforward. Each rafter needs:
- A birdsmouth-style notch at the house end so it sits under the eaves
- A matching notch at the front to maintain the roof fall
- A consistent 4° roof pitch for water runoff
To calculate the rafter angles, I used an online triangle calculator. The image below shows the basic principle.
Important: Check all timber lengths before cutting any notches. Timber lengths can vary by a few millimetres, so cut all rafters to the same overall length first.
- Cut each rafter to identical length
- Mark the notch positions at both ends
- Cut the notches using a circular saw, finishing with a jigsaw
- Cut a 45° angle on the exposed front end of each rafter (for a neat finish)
- Mark 12 evenly spaced positions along the support beams
- Position each rafter in place
- Secure using 80mm exterior wood screws, driven down through the rafter into the support beam
Check rafters are seated correctly and evenly spaced before tightening all fixings.
Now onto the roofing.
Step 6: Fit the Purlins
Purlins provide fixing points and support for the corrugated roofing sheets. These are smaller timbers fixed across the rafters, running the full width of the veranda.
For this build, I used 2×1 timber (25 × 50mm) to create three purlin runs along the length of the veranda roof.
- Position the first purlin near the top of the rafters
- Space the remaining two purlins evenly down the slope
- Fix each purlin to every rafter using 60mm exterior wood screws
Ensure all purlins are straight and securely fixed before moving on to the roofing sheets.
Step 7: Fit the Roofing Sheets
The final stage is fixing the corrugated roofing sheets to the purlins.
- Using a ladder, place the first sheet in position
- Ensure the sheet is perfectly square to the structure
- Drill pilot holes through the sheet at each purlin position
- Always drill and fix through the top of the corrugation, not the dip
- Secure using roofing screws with rubber washers (designed for corrugated sheets)
Start at one end of the veranda and work across.
- It’s a good idea to loosely position two or three sheets first before fully fixing, to confirm alignment
- Use approximately 4 fixings per sheet per purlin (around 12 screws per sheet)
- Overlap adjacent sheets by two corrugation profiles to create a watertight joint
Once all sheets are aligned, tighten the fixings securely, but avoid overtightening, which can distort the sheets.
You can also find self-tapping roof fixings, which prevent the need for pre-drilling holes.
Step 8: Finishing Touches
With the structure complete, your DIY veranda is now ready for finishing.
Painting or staining the timber will significantly improve its appearance and help protect the wood from the elements. I chose a grey exterior wood paint, but any high-quality exterior paint, stain, or preservative suitable for treated timber will work.
At this stage, you can start thinking about extras such as:
- Decking or paving beneath the veranda
- Outdoor seating or dining furniture
- Lighting or an electric patio heater for cooler evenings
These finishing touches turn a simple wooden veranda into a comfortable outdoor living space you can enjoy for most of the year.
If you’ve built your own veranda or are planning a similar project, feel free to share your experience or ask questions in the comments.
You can also add some decking and guttering to complete your own DIY veranda. Click here to read how to install the decking.
Before and after pictures for this DIY veranda. Read about the DIY decking here.
April 2020
Feb 2023
Mar 2023
April 2023
As you can see, we’ve recently renewed the patio. Read all about this DIY porcelain patio here. The DIY veranda, decking and patio make the perfect combination.
DIY Veranda Kits (UK): Are They Worth It?
If you’d prefer a simpler route than designing and cutting everything yourself, a DIY veranda kit can be a good alternative. These kits typically include pre-cut structural timbers, fixings, and sometimes roofing sheets, allowing you to assemble a veranda with minimal measuring and cutting.
DIY veranda kits are available in a wide range of sizes and styles, from basic lean-to canopies to more decorative timber verandas.
What’s Usually Included in a Veranda Kit
Most DIY veranda kits contain:
- Pre-cut timber posts and beams
- Rafters and brackets
- Fixings and bolts
- Basic installation instructions
Roofing materials may or may not be included, so always check what’s supplied.
Pros of Using a DIY Veranda Kit
- Faster installation
- Less measuring and cutting
- Predictable material quantities
- Good option for beginners
Cons of Using a DIY Veranda Kit
- Higher cost than sourcing materials individually
- Limited size and design flexibility
- Timber sizes may be lighter than custom builds
Kit vs Custom Build – Which Is Better?
If you want maximum strength, flexibility, and lowest cost, building from raw materials (as shown in this guide) is usually the better option.
If you want speed and simplicity, a DIY veranda kit may be the right choice.
Both approaches can produce excellent results; it mainly depends on your budget, time, and confidence level.
Here is another veranda I built recently with solid polycarbonate roofing sheets. It’s quite a bit more expensive but worth it if you can afford it. Read the full guide here:
Here’s a quick look at my latest project. A DIY garden sofa and table set made from Iroko wood.
August 2024. I’ve recently added a reclaimed wood boardwalk and another decking area to the garden to tidy things up.
Readers DIY Veranda
Here are a few pictures from one of my readers, Jon. He’s done an amazing job with added trellis walls and railings to add some privacy and divide between this and the rest of the outdoor space. Proper job!
My top posts
Take a look at some more of my projects for inspiration:
- How to build a garden office from scratch – on a budget
- Under stair drawers
- How to build your own decking area
- How to build your own shed from scratch
- How to build your own radiator cover
- How to restore weathered wooden furniture
- How to build a raised planter with seating
- How to replace architrave and update your doors
Hello,
I know this is all quite old by now but thanks for such a detailled article.
I am in the process of doing my research for a similar project and your article helped in that regard. However, one aspect remains quite elusive everywhere I look:
How did you deal with roof access (fixing tiles, cleaning roof or gutters, etc) once the veranda was up (especially on your second veranda on the 2 storey house)? Ladders and scafoldings are not practical anymore on this side of the building.
Also don’t the solar panels require regular maintenance (needing roof access once again) ?
Thanks,
Hello
Thanks for leaving and comment. It’s good to know people are still finding this post helpful. These are great questions and something the scaffold company easily overcame. I’ll drop a couple of images onto the article so you can see how they got around this. It’s basically a custom scaffold rig with a bridging system. The panels don’t require regular maintenance but may require cleaning every couple of years or so. For this, a long cleaning pole is the most cost-effective approach.
View image here: https://wood-create.com/how-to-build-a-veranda-step-by-step-with-pictures/#:~:text=Roof%20Access%20with%20a%20Veranda
I’d also like to add, the solid polycarbonate panels on the lean-to can easily be removed and replaced without too much hassle. They’re simply secured in place with the Alukap Aluminium Glazing Bars, which can be unscrewed and refastened. This then provides easy access for ladders, etc.
Please shout if you have any other questions. The lean-to veranda is one of our favourite garden projects and we use it year-round!
Regards, Ben
Wow, thanks for the lightning quick response 🙂
The bridging scafolding wouldn’t be practical for me as one side of the veranda will be against the neighbour extension, but it’s great to know that the sheets can be (relatively easily) removed temporarily and put back in place later.
I will have to get creative with the flashing as I wouldn’t want to have to redo that as well but you removed a great weigth off my mind … now I feel confident enough to go ahead with the project.
Thanks again, and have a great day!
Hi Ben,
In Step 5. What did you use to connect the the rafters to the house support beams?
And the rafters to the front beam?
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks for your quick reply Ben,
That’s a great great link
Dave
Thank you very much for this guide. After reading and check everything i build my own veranda.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qfkCJEbTZsmrCzFa7
Thanks for reading. Enjoy your build.
I have been reading about the benefits of having a veranda for years. I was so excited to find this guide! It gives great tips on how to build your own veranda and what you can do with it once built. The guide is very detailed and has lots of pictures which are easy to understand. I love that it provides details on different types of wood, materials needed and the step by step instructions. Thank you for this wonderful article.
Thanks for the inspiration. I added the decking and lighting too. Furniture on the way. Was a big project (for me anyway) but it looks fantastic. I’m a software developer so stuff like this isn’t remotely what I do. But I really enjoyed it – and wouldn’t have started it if I hadn’t stumbled across this guide. Photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3pAtUtpdB6mKU3FD6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gSPDraW8it9t7tqi6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/R6QjvR2URCcvesK6A
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nw8KCtLTVVpyipDR8
Nice work Gabhan! Looks like you have a good level of skills for the work. I worked in IT when I completed mine so in a similar boat. You have a lovely garden. Ben
Great build. Where are you based?! Just wondering if you would like to come and build similar to my house in Bristol! So hard to find someone to build for the costs you are talking about. Had a company quote nearly £30,000 for something similar but with glass! 😱
Thanks for the invite Natasha but it’s not a service I offer sorry. Hope you find someone who can do this for a reasonable price. (not £30k :o) Ben
Hi Alex i got those timbers from B&Q that are spaced apart, they are fencing timbers
Hi Ben. Very nice veranda. I have build similar veranda on my house.
Do you know from where (you or someone else) bought timber for partition next to the fence on second veranda ?
It’s not mine sorry Alex so I can’t help answer this question.
Hi Ben,
Amazing build and writeup. And so nice of you to still answer questions years after the original article was posted.
I have a question about the stability of the structure.
I see you only anchored front posts to the concrete slabs which is my plan as well, and there are not 45 degree braces anywhere in the structure of the veranda. Which I would like to avoid as well purely for aesthetic reasons.
I assume veranda can’t move back and forth because it’s attached to the house. But what about sideways?
I see it’s leaning to the wall on the left hand side. Do you thing that wall is helping the structure’s rigidity or it would work just as well without it?
I have read a lot about digging holes for the posts and pouring concrete to help the stability of the structure but would like to avoid it if possible. What was the advice you were given regarding stability of your veranda?
Thanks,
Dusan
Hi Dusan, I’ve not had any issues with stability. The structure has been secure and solid since installation due to cut outs on the posts and number of rafters. If you’re worried then digging holes with Postcrete is a good way to add strength and if you feel additional stability is required afterwards then 45 degree braces will surely help.
Good luck with your build.
Thanks for the reply Ben.
Just one more quick question.
I see yo have two swings hanging from your rafters. I’ve read a lot of forums (mostly american) and they are recommending rafter sizes almost double of what you have used if you want to have swing chairs.
I was just wondering how are your swing chairs holding? Do you have any concern about the weight you put on them (let’s say big 260lbs man).
My plan is to have a bit longer rafters than you, 2.7m, but that’s not much of a difference. Also I plan to use rafter hangers (people seem to be saying that they are structurally even better than notching the wood?)
Kind regards,
Dusan
Hi Dule. We don’t have any issues with our swing chairs but please do your own calculations to make sure.
Hi Ben and Jon I found your post/thread when trying to research how to put a veranda along the front of my 50s bungalow in a Somerset seaside village! now, even without going any further, I know that I can’t ‘build’ anything on the front or side elevations as they both ‘front a main highway’ (well, quiet cul de sac!) But I still wanted to comment as I think this is a fantastic post and am really interested to see how well someone else did the job following your instructions etc. I’m also commenting because (being a 63 year old single nearly-retiree) I didn’t fancy doing this myself but in my tiny rear courtyard I got a mate to erect something very similar that I bought off the peg for around 600GBP 3 years ago from a Scandinavian company (TUIN DECO) that usually make log cabins – it’s a car port 3m deep by 4m wide and the price included the polycarbonate panels but I haven’t used those (except for my chicken coop!) and still have some left that I’m thinking I might now use for a couple of the panels where it could do with being a bit more waterproof … This was because when I bought the house it had an old grapevine that was still living but had nowhere to climb/thrive! now it is trained up and over the open struts and is coming on nicely. doesn’t keep the area underneath dry but does provide shade!!! I’m going to read your decking post now as my courtyard is all old concrete plus the old base of a shed that was in it when I bought it – demolished that but it makes a nice raised platform just needs some cosmetic TLC!!! fantastic guys, I’ll read your posts again and follow you now I’ve found you! Best wishes, Christina
Thanks for your comments and feedback Christina. Always good to hear people are finding this post useful.
Hey, really great guide. Was hoping you could shed some light on exactly what type/size of screw and plug you used for securing the beam to the wall of the house? It only says:
12 x and wall plugs (for fixing the 4×2 to the house wall)
Hi Dave, the materials list in the post covers this. They are 120mm (or 100mm is fine) hex bolts and 50mm x 10mm wall plug. I’ve just updated the post so that links are now available.
Great instructions ben i have all the materials in and will be starting this today mine is roughly 6.5m wide and 3.5m out from the house as i got the 3660mm long plastic sheets, i am also using 5 posts on mine as at later stage i want to add some nice rails etc wish me luck and thanks again…..
Best of luck Jonathon. Post a pic when you finish! 😁👍🏼
All finished would love to share a pic but not sure how to upload one
That’s great Jonathon. Feel free to email me the pic and I can upload it to the post. Ben@wood-create.com
Hiya, really nice job. Can i just ask, how did you seal it to the neighbours extension? I’m simply making a lean to roof in a small yard, the roof will be between our small extension and the neighbour’s,l extension and I’m just wondering how I will seal the side edges of my roof to the brick. flashing is obvious I know but my pitch won’t allow for nice “stair/stepped” flashing. the pitch won’t be steep enough! Thanks.
I’ve not sealed any part to the walls. You’ll need to research this separately.
HI, great instructional post. One question, is the roof really noisy when it rains? Don’t want to anger the neighbours by installing it and then driving them mad when it rains. Juts a rough idea would be great
Hi Si
The roof is fine, you can barely hear it. Just make sure you go for the thicker 1.1mm PVC sheets. You can always go for the even thicker sheets to reduce any noise further.
Hi Ben,
With regards to planning permission, I want to build a veranda like yours but I want it to be 19ft X 13ft. will I need planning permission for this? as it is not a building just a glorified shed roof.
I don’t know Joe. There are many different factors that only you can answer. I would suggest contacting your local council to find out.
Hi, general question please. What are the noise levels like on the roof when it rains?
Not too bad but make sure you go for the thicker 1.1 or 1.3mm sheets as they won’t be so noisy.
Hey Ben
Great work! I’ve been looking at building something very similar, but I’ve always worried about the corrugated plastic roof as it would be right underneath our bedroom window. Do you find the roofing noisy when it rains? Might be a weird question, but I hope you can help 🙂
Not a weird question at all as lots of people think about this. We haven’t had any issues with it. It’s right next to our living room and our daughters bedroom and it’s never been an issue. You have to make sure you buy the thicker stuff as the thin will sound much louder. Try at least the 1.1mm thick or 1.3mm thick for better sound deadening. Don’t buy 0.9mm thickness.
Brilliant! Thanks for this!
Thank for the answer, good info
Great write up thanks for doing this. Richard
Hi, great article, I’m going to build my own carport so I found all your tips and tricks very useful as this can be easily adapted into my ideas
Hi Ben. This is a tremendous account of your project and exactly the type of veranda I had visualised for my back garden. I searched to get an idea of wood sizes before I start my own one and found your detailed account. Brilliant and thanks very much!
Hi – This looks so good.
I am renovating a similar set up on my dormer bungalow. Not as refined as yours but a great addition to the house. Current set up had upvc fascia board up to join the guttering. Did you join the guttering to the joists? .
Yes
Hi,
Thanks for this, really useful. Can I ask how you dealt with your home drain pipe? Did you make a hole in the veranda roof?
Thanks
Pretty much, yes. Just cut through the corrugated sheets with a small hacksaw. It’s not water right but it didn’t need to be for this section.
Thanks, I have been looking for details about this topic for ages and yours is the best I’ve discovered so far.
Thanks for the drawing, that’s much clearer! You were certainly right about that.
Cheers,
Daniele
Hi Ben,
thanks for the instructional post, I want to do something similar in my garden soon!
Would you mind explaining how you figured out the cutting angles for the rafters (point #5) to maintain the 4% slope please?
Thanks!
Hi Daniele.
My maths isn’t great so I used a triangle calculator. Simply put in the lengths and the calculator will do the rest for you. This is the one I used: https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
Hope this helps, Ben
Hi Ben,
thanks for the quick reply, neat tool!
Unfortunately, my maths is probably worse than yours, so I’m not sure I understand how you used it 😛
Hi Daniele
It’s difficult to explain without drawing a picture.
I’ll update my post later today with a diagram which should help.
Regards
Ben
Hi, Firstly thank you for posting such an in depth instructional post. This is exactly what i want to do, i have a 5.0 width. I leveled my garden in the winter and built a deck so you step out the back of the patio doors straight onto the deck. I have a few questions.
1: I don’t think i have as much room above my door, 1 brick height before it stick out for the gutter, is this okay, can i reduce the wood size from 47×100 to 47×75? If not how would it work with it above? can i attach to the fascia, i was dubious on this?
2: Can i attach to the deck?
3: Can i get away with a post at each end with a 5m span? have to be 4.8 i think as no timber long enough.
i can post a picture of my back garden to help you see what i mean?
Thanks again for the great post!
Hi Paddy, thanks for you’re note. I’m afraid I’m not able to advise you on your questions. You should seek professional advise if you are unsure on your project. I did my own research and spoke to professionals which were only specific to my build. All the best with you’re build. Ben
hi.
nice project. do you need planning permission for this?
Many thanks
No. This one didn’t. Always best to check the planning portal to double check if you’re unsure.
I’m building a simple lean to 2.8m x 5m. 2.5m high. more or less same design with polycarbonate roof. it will be open on all sides. the structure will be anchored to the ground exactly like yours.
the house is terraced is not in a reservation area. we will use it just as a dry place in the garden to hang clothes or have a meal in the summer. 2 builders told me that I don’t need planning permission for this.
Many thanks for your reply.
Sounds great! Send me the post when your done 🙂