How To Install Rustic Industrial Scaffold Board Shelving

This is now the third set of scaffold board shelving installations I’ve completed and I just love the look and feel of them. I’ve experimented with both reclaimed boards and new boards and both provide a warming rustic feel to our home decor. They look great in kitchens, living rooms and even function amazingly in our under stair pantry. Within this article, I’m going to show you how to install these industrial style brackets and prepare your boards for perfect, super strong functional shelving that looks both modern and trendy.

Top Tips for Installing Scaffold Board Shelving

Before I get into the detail, it’s important to note a few key tips to get the best out of your rustic shelving.

1. These rustic shelves can be installed on most walls but it’s vitally important to ensure you use the correct fixings so that your shelves can support the weight.
2. You can install these shelves on stud walls, solid brick walls and dry-lined walls. It’s important to test the wall before deciding which fixing is best for the job.
3. Ensure you use good quality screws from a reputable screw supplier to ensure a strong and secure hold. Cheap screws can break under heavy loads.
4. When using reclaimed scaffold boards it’s important to dry them properly beforehand. If you’ve sourced damp or wet reclaimed boards, ensure they are dried on a flat surface before installation. This will prevent the boards from shrinking and twisting after installation.
5. Ensure you have a good combi drill for this job will make installation easier and provide a much cleaner result. I’ll include my recommendation below.
6. If you are using new scaffold boards then you’re already halfway there. New boards are much easier to work with as they don’t require so much cleaning. The downside is they don’t have so much rustic charm and cost a lot more. Expect to pay around £35 for a 3.9m board.

Step One – Preparing the boards

Remove the end bands (Optional)

I prefer to remove the metal end bands from scaffold boards but you can leave them on if you desire. I use a flat-headed screwdriver and a blunt chisel to remove mine. Simply pry them off bit by bit.

Cut the boards to length

Measure up your space and work out how long each board needs to be. I used a mitre saw to cut my boards but you could also use a circular saw, jigsaw or hand saw for a similar finish. Mark out the length with a tape measure and mark the board with a pencil. I tend to use a roofers square to ensure a perfect 90-degree angle cut.

Sanding the boards

It’s important to have a smooth finish on your boards to avoid splinters and leave and even surface on which to oil or stain. I use my random orbital sander with an 80 grit sandpaper to start. I then go over with a 120 grit sandpaper and finish off with a 240 grit paper. 

This will leave a perfectly smooth finish on your boards, ready for applying some protective coating.

Staining or treating the boards

This process is optional but I would recommend applying a varnish for protection and longevity of your installation. I’ve been using a Ronseal interior varnish which is available in many different colours. 

It only requires one coat and that will last for many years. It will protect the board from moisture, scratches and scrapes. The varnish can easily be applied using a paintbrush. Here are some Ronseal varnish colour examples. I’ve used French Oak on my kitchen shelving.

You could also apply an interior oil or wood stain. It’s up to you.

Working with reclaimed boards

If you’ve got your hands on some reclaimed boards then you’ll need to follow a similar process as above. Just be prepared to spend a bit more time on the sanding section. Ensure your boards are dry before starting work on them. If they are wet, leave them lying flat in a warm room for a few weeks to dry them out. Don’t stand them up against a wall as they will likely warp and twist. If you can leave them in a heated room with a dehumidifier they will dry much quicker.

Step Two – Measure and Mark out for the Brackets

Bracket spacing

With the scaffold boards prepared for installation, it’s now time to measure up for the brackets. Think about how many brackets you’ll need for the length of board you are installing. I’d recommend installing a bracket at least every 1m. So, if you have a two-meter shelf, install 3 brackets. One in the middle and one at each end.

Sourcing the brackets

I purchased our brackets from Etsy but you can also find them on Amazon, eBay or independent retailers like ‘The Metal Bracket Company’ or ‘The Scaff Shop’. Here are a couple of my favourites:

Measuring the bracket height

Find the ideal height for your shelf and hold the bracket against the wall for a visual representation. Finding the first location and height will then determine the following bracket locations. Using a pencil, mark the wall along the top of the bracket and the two mounting holes. Use a small spirit level to ensure the bracket is straight on the wall.

Mark out the remaining brackets

Using a long spirit level or a straight piece of wood with a smaller spirit level on top, locate the height of the next bracket. Make sure the bracket isn’t more than 1m away. Hold the second bracket up and mark out the two mounting holes on the wall with a pencil. Now repeat this process for the remaining brackets. Ensure the spacing between each bracket is equal.

With all the holes marked out on the wall for your brackets, it’s time to get drilling.

Step Three – Securing the Brackets to the Wall

It’s now time to work out what type of wall you are dealing with and select the right type of fixing to ensure your brackets and shelving is secure.

Test for live wires and metal pipework

First of all, use a multi-wall detector like this to test for live wires and any metal plumbing in the walls. If you discover anything you will need to adjust your bracket mounting location slightly. try a couple of centimetres to the left or right. Never drill a hole directly above light switches or sockets

Drill a test hole

Using a masonry drill bit, drill a test hole in the wall to assess the type of wall you are dealing with. Most houses will have one of these types of walls:

Solid Walls: Typically, solid walls consist of either brick or block interiors with a gap between them and the exterior wall. The inner wall is typically plastered to achieve a smooth and ‘solid’ finish.

Stud Walls: These walls are predominantly used for non-load-bearing purposes and are often combined with solid walls. In this construction, plasterboard sheets are affixed to a timber frame mounted on the wall, creating a gap between the plasterboard and the wall.

Dry-Lined Walls: Since the 1990s, dry lining has become the primary method for covering load-bearing walls in the UK. Adhesive dabs are applied to the wall, and plasterboard is attached to it, usually leaving a small gap of approximately 10mm between the plasterboard and the wall.

Selecting the best wall fixings

Here are a few suggestions for using the best type of fixing for the type of wall you have:

• Solid wall – I prefer to use nylon wall plugs for these walls as they provide a good secure fit and expand into the hole when securing a screw.
• Stud wall – There are three great fixings for these walls. Spring Toggle fixing, hollow wall anchors or a self-drive plug. (I used a hollow wall anchor for my installation).
• Dry-lined wall – Dry lined plastic wall fixings are perfect for this job. They are very similar to nylon wall plugs but much longer, allowing them to sit comfortably in the solid wall behind the plasterboard and adhesive.

Drilling the mounting holes

Now you know the type of wall you are dealing with and the type of fixings required it’s time to start drilling. Ensure your holes are deep enough to seat your fixings. Measure your fixing length and drill a hole a few millimetres deeper. I tend to mark on the drill bit with a Sharpie the depth of the fixing.

For solid walls and dry-lined walls you will likely need to use a combi drill with hammer action. This will make drilling much easier into these brick walls.

Mounting the bracket

Insert the wall plugs into the holes and tap them in with a hammer, ensuring they don’t protrude out of the wall at all.

You can now hold the bracket into place and secure them to the wall with screws.

Finally, check each bracket has been mounted correctly and that all the brackets are level. Ensure there is no movement in the bracket before fixing the boards in place.

Step 4 – Fixing the Boards to the Brackets

The final job is to place the boards onto the brackets and secure them in place with screws. Ensure your shelves are centred and flat. Use a spirit level to ensure they are mounted correctly.

If you are using your shelves for very heavy loads, ensure you are using the correct fixings and you have enough anchor points. If you are unsure, adding more brackets to the shelves will increase the support strength. For additional strength, you can also apply adhesive to the back of the bracket before securing it to the wall.

Now you can load up your shelves and make them look amazing with whatever you desire. Here’s an example of my pantry where we have very heavy loads.

Tools Required to Install Scaffold Board Shelving

Here is a list of tools I’ve used for this project. 

Tool

Combi Drill and Driver

Mitre Saw (or Circular Saw)

Masonry Drill Bits

Spirit Level (Large)

Spirit Level (Small)

Hammer

Tape Measure

Pencil

Multi wall detector

Conclusion

Scaffold board shelving installations offer a unique and appealing industrial style to home decor, providing a blend of modernity and rustic charm. Whether using reclaimed or new boards, the versatility of these shelves extends from kitchens to living rooms and even under stair pantries. As showcased in this article, the installation process involves meticulous preparation and attention to detail.

Here is a quick summary of the points mentioned in this article:

Key Tips for Scaffold Board Shelving Installation:

1. Preparation of Boards:
   • Remove metal end bands for a cleaner look.
   • Measure and cut boards to the desired length using tools like a mitre saw or circular saw.
   • Achieve a smooth finish by thorough sanding with various grits (80, 120, 240).
   • Optional: Apply a protective varnish for longevity and resistance to moisture, scratches, and bashes.
2. Measuring and Marking for Brackets:
   • Consider bracket spacing, recommending at least one bracket per meter of the shelf length.
   • Source brackets from platforms like Etsy, Amazon, or specialized retailers.
   • Determine the ideal bracket height visually, marking the wall with a pencil and using a spirit level for accuracy.
   • Repeat the process for additional brackets, ensuring equal spacing between them.
3. Securing Brackets to the Wall:
   • Test for live wires and metal plumbing using a multi-wall detector before drilling.
   • Drill a test hole to identify the wall type (solid, stud, or dry-lined) and choose appropriate fixings.
   • Select suitable fixings: nylon wall plugs for solid walls, spring toggle fixing, hollow wall anchors, or self-drive plugs for stud walls, and dry-lined plastic wall fixings for dry-lined walls.
   • Use a combi drill with hammer action for solid and dry-lined walls.
4. Fixing Boards to Brackets:
   • Center and mount the boards onto brackets, securing them in place with screws.
   • Use a spirit level to ensure shelves are level and well-mounted.
   • For heavy loads, add more brackets or apply adhesive for additional support.

Thanks for reading. If you’ve found this article useful or have any further questions, please feel free to leave a comment below and I’ll respond ASAP. Also, if you want to share any of your own scaffold board shelving ideas please drop me an email and I’d be happy to showcase them on this article. (ben@wood-create.com)

Check out some more of my scaffold board furniture here: Scaffold board designs

Scaffold board creations

• How to make an industrial rustic scaffold board dining table and bench
• How to make a rustic industrial desk with reclaimed scaffold boards
• How to build a wooden walkway on ground
• How to make a rustic side table or plant stand from reclaimed wood

Further Reading