How to build your own veranda for under £500

Save yourself a bucket load of money by doing this yourself.  My brother was quoted over £2000 for a veranda a similar size to mine.  I built mine for £431.96.  So if you want a veranda, canopy, patio cover, pergola or simple lean-to, why not try it yourself and save well over £1000.  (I already had a good selection of bolts and screws so this would have cost another £30-£40)  

Most competent DIYers can achieve this structure with a few basic tools and a bit of research.  It uses the house and good ground supports for structural strength and the canopy for weather protection.  The materials I’ve used can be found in most DIY stores like B&Q, Wickes but I’d recommend buying the corrugated sheeting online if you can’t find the correct thickness locally. 

build your own veranda

We’ve recently added some decking which cost an additional £450.

Click here to see how I built the decking area.


Before you get started, one important question that many people have asked me is – Does my veranda require planning permission?  More often than not you won’t need planning permission but check the below list and keep your construction within the guidelines.  You can also check the UK Planning Portal for more information and it’s always worth checking with your local planning department before you get started.

Veranda planning permission requirements:

  1. Must not be wider than the existing building.
  2. The maximum depth for a single storey building must not exceed 3000mm for an attached building and 4000mm for a detached building.
  3. The maximum height must not exceed 4000mm.
  4. The maximum height of the eaves within 2000mm of a boundary shall not be greater than 3000mm.
  5. Raised platforms must not exceed 300mm.
  6. No extension in front of the main elevation or side elevation fronting  a public highway.
  7. The total area of ground covered by the veranda must not exceed 50% of the land around the original house.

Hopefully you now have a good idea of the size and shape of your veranda but if you want to try this yourself then you’re going to need a few basic tools. So essentials will including a good drill with a mix of different size wood and masonry bits, circular saw, handsaw, jigsaw, hammer, chisel, tape measure, protractor, set square and pencil.

After deciding the size of the veranda I needed to check if it would actually fit under the eaves of our roof. We live in a chalet bungalow, therefore the roof comes down quite low, so I had to decide whether the top edge of the veranda would go over the roof eave or under.  Luckily the eave was just high enough to go under and allow enough run off to the end of the veranda without going too low.  The measurements are:

  • Top edge height (under eave)- 2400mm
  • Bottom edge height – 2150mm
  • Length – 2400mm
  • Width – 6900mm

I was initially concerned with the run off angle of the roof (the pitch) to avoid water becoming stagnant.  In the end I ended up with a 4 degree pitch which was just enough.  Water tends to sit much easier on plastic than with glass so bear this in mind when planning your own.

window veranda

With this being nearly 7m wide I knew two support posts weren’t going to be enough, but three post would be fine.  We considered protruding 3 meters into the garden but decided that 2.4 meters was enough.  The 3m length would have cost about an additional £120.  

I used building grade wood for the structure and some basic 2×1 pine for the purlins. If you want a chunky, stable build then look for C16 building certified wood.  I shopped around and struggled to find a reasonable priced merchant with good delivery prices.  In the end I found a great merchant on eBay with great prices and free next day delivery.  Search for seller – Builders Emporium.  I also purchased all the other items from various sellers on eBay including the 100 x 100 support posts, galvanised steel support post fixings, Vistalux corrugated heavyweight (1.1mm) plastic roofing sheets and Vistalux roofing sheet fixings.  I like shopping on eBay as the prices are generally much better than anywhere else and you can read seller ratings and feedback before you buy.  My other items were purchased at a local B&Q who also offer delivery on bulky items if you don’t have suitable transport.  Check it out here.

The materials list

Tool list

To complete this job consider investing in a few essential tools.  This are what I recommend but you can compromise where your budget won’t allow:

Save money on tools and materials

Save money on you tool and material purchases with a cash back account like TopCashback.  I’ve been using this site now for a few years and generated about £400 per year on all my everyday purchases.


How to build a veranda – Step by step guide

Step 1. Measure everything up and find the equal distance for the 3 posts to be placed. Don’t go right up to the edges of the veranda.  Come in about 300mm each end and 200mm towards the house along the rafter.  Place the support on the floor and mark where the four holes will go.  Drill the four holes with a masonry bit and insert the plugs.  Make sure you have a good drill with hammer action for this or you will be there all day.  This was one of the most difficult parts of the build even with a good drill.  Bolt each corner down and repeat with the other two support posts.

Step 2.  Prepare the support posts.  Your two 6×2 timbers will sit on these so you will need to cut a section out the top.  (47x150mm)  Measure the total height, in my case it was 2000mm plus the 150mm for the cross beams so 2150mm total.  Cut 250mm off the top with the circular saw then mark up the insert for the cross beams and cut this section out.  Once complete insert the posts into the supports.  They should be a tight fit and stand on their own.

Step 3.  Attach the cross beams (3600x47x150mm).  To ensure I had good support all the way along the two beams I cut both at an angle and attached and bolted together on the centre support post.  To do this just clamp or tie the two posts together and cut one end of both beams with the circular saw at an angle.  As I did this bit on my own I used a couple of the other pieces to help me steady everything whilst I drilled and attached the M10 bolts.



Step 4.  Fitting the 3.6m (47x100mm) beams to the house was next, and a rather tough job. Drilling into brick again was not easy as I had to go into the wall by about 80mm. I selected a total of 10 points along the wall, drilled, plugged and fastened the beams whilst tightening with a ratchet spanner.

Step 5. The rafters. This was relatively easy once I worked out the angles to cut. To ensure the rafters fit under the eaves of the house I had to cut an indent into the wood and again at the other end to ensure I kept the 4 degree run off.  To calculate the rafter cut angles I used this online triangle calculator.  The below image might help you understand how I achieved this.


I did make a mistake at this point. I measured and cut the wood from each end. What I hadn’t realised is that each bit of wood was slightly different in length which meant the cuts on each one were slightly out. Luckily I noticed my mistake early on and marked all the rafters from one piece and one end to ensure they were all the same. After cutting all the notches with the circular saw and jigsaw I marked up 12 equal points along the veranda and slotted each one into place. Then I fastened each one into place with screws along the top at the front and edges along the wall. That was the structural part done. Now on to the roofing.

Step 6.  The roofing had to be supported by purlins which are the smaller lengths of wood that fit crossways along the rafters. These are to ensure you get good support and fixing points along the veranda for the roofing sheets.  I went for quite a small purlin (9x18mm) but in hindsight I should have gone for something a little bigger.  These felt a little flimsy and were warped in places.  

The final job was to fix the roofing sheets to the purlins. This meant climbing up a ladder and screwing pilot holes along the sheets. I placed 3 rows of purlins and a total of 15 screws per sheet.  It’s important that you use the correct roof fixings to secure the sheets in place.  These capped screws will protect from water leaking through the sheets.  Just ensure the screw points are at the top of the corrugated curve, not in the dip.  

Make sure you use enough to secure each piece in place.  You don’t want your sail like sheets flying off in a strong wind.  I’ve heard you can get fixings with drill like ends (self taping) which you can screw straight into the PVC and wood without having to pre-drill pilot holes.

This takes us up to the finished article.  Now all we need is some nice decking and furniture to enjoy our new outdoor space and maybe an electric patio heater for cooler afternoons to comfortably enjoy a cup of tea!  But that’s for another time.  Please feel free to comment below and share your experiences.

Update March 2020.  I’ve recently added some decking and guttering which cost an additional £450.  It’s also had a lick of paint.

IMG_6415decking verandabuild your own veranda

Before and after pics.

April 2015

Original patio without veranda

Feb 2020


Mar 2020

build your own veranda

April 2020

how to build a veranda

As you can see we’ve recently renewed the patio.  Read all about this DIY porcelain patio here.

Update August 2020.  I’ve recently added a reclaimed wood boardwalk and another decking area to the gardens to tidy things up.

how to build your own boardwalkIMG_7690IMG_7683DIY Porcelain Patio

Save more money

If you are interested in saving a bit of money for all your DIY projects why not take advantage of a cash back site like ‘TopCashBack‘.  I used this site for all my online purchases and accumulated well over £950 in just 3 years.  A nice little bonus for some new tools!  My wife has also been using TopCashback and together we’ve generated over £2800. Here’s a screenshot of my current earnings.

cashback2I’ve also installed the TopCashback browser plugin to ensure I never miss out of cash back again.


Take a look at some more of my projects for inspiration:



Pin me and save for later!

How to build your own veranda


      • I’m building a simple lean to 2.8m x 5m. 2.5m high. more or less same design with polycarbonate roof. it will be open on all sides. the structure will be anchored to the ground exactly like yours.
        the house is terraced is not in a reservation area. we will use it just as a dry place in the garden to hang clothes or have a meal in the summer. 2 builders told me that I don’t need planning permission for this.

        Many thanks for your reply.


  1. Hi, Firstly thank you for posting such an in depth instructional post. This is exactly what i want to do, i have a 5.0 width. I leveled my garden in the winter and built a deck so you step out the back of the patio doors straight onto the deck. I have a few questions.

    1: I don’t think i have as much room above my door, 1 brick height before it stick out for the gutter, is this okay, can i reduce the wood size from 47×100 to 47×75? If not how would it work with it above? can i attach to the fascia, i was dubious on this?

    2: Can i attach to the deck?

    3: Can i get away with a post at each end with a 5m span? have to be 4.8 i think as no timber long enough.

    i can post a picture of my back garden to help you see what i mean?

    Thanks again for the great post!


    • Hi Paddy, thanks for you’re note. I’m afraid I’m not able to advise you on your questions. You should seek professional advise if you are unsure on your project. I did my own research and spoke to professionals which were only specific to my build. All the best with you’re build. Ben


  2. Hi Ben,

    thanks for the instructional post, I want to do something similar in my garden soon!

    Would you mind explaining how you figured out the cutting angles for the rafters (point #5) to maintain the 4% slope please?



  3. Hi,

    Thanks for this, really useful. Can I ask how you dealt with your home drain pipe? Did you make a hole in the veranda roof?



    • Pretty much, yes. Just cut through the corrugated sheets with a small hacksaw. It’s not water right but it didn’t need to be for this section.


  4. Hi – This looks so good.

    I am renovating a similar set up on my dormer bungalow. Not as refined as yours but a great addition to the house. Current set up had upvc fascia board up to join the guttering. Did you join the guttering to the joists? .


  5. Hi Ben. This is a tremendous account of your project and exactly the type of veranda I had visualised for my back garden. I searched to get an idea of wood sizes before I start my own one and found your detailed account. Brilliant and thanks very much!


  6. Hi, great article, I’m going to build my own carport so I found all your tips and tricks very useful as this can be easily adapted into my ideas


  7. Hey Ben
    Great work! I’ve been looking at building something very similar, but I’ve always worried about the corrugated plastic roof as it would be right underneath our bedroom window. Do you find the roofing noisy when it rains? Might be a weird question, but I hope you can help 🙂


    • Not a weird question at all as lots of people think about this. We haven’t had any issues with it. It’s right next to our living room and our daughters bedroom and it’s never been an issue. You have to make sure you buy the thicker stuff as the thin will sound much louder. Try at least the 1.1mm thick or 1.3mm thick for better sound deadening. Don’t buy 0.9mm thickness.


  8. Hi Ben,

    With regards to planning permission, I want to build a veranda like yours but I want it to be 19ft X 13ft. will I need planning permission for this? as it is not a building just a glorified shed roof.


  9. HI, great instructional post. One question, is the roof really noisy when it rains? Don’t want to anger the neighbours by installing it and then driving them mad when it rains. Juts a rough idea would be great


    • Hi Si

      The roof is fine, you can barely hear it. Just make sure you go for the thicker 1.1mm PVC sheets. You can always go for the even thicker sheets to reduce any noise further.


  10. Hiya, really nice job. Can i just ask, how did you seal it to the neighbours extension? I’m simply making a lean to roof in a small yard, the roof will be between our small extension and the neighbour’s,l extension and I’m just wondering how I will seal the side edges of my roof to the brick. flashing is obvious I know but my pitch won’t allow for nice “stair/stepped” flashing. the pitch won’t be steep enough! Thanks.


  11. Great instructions ben i have all the materials in and will be starting this today mine is roughly 6.5m wide and 3.5m out from the house as i got the 3660mm long plastic sheets, i am also using 5 posts on mine as at later stage i want to add some nice rails etc wish me luck and thanks again…..


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