How to Build a Dining Table (DIY Rustic Industrial Style)

Building your own dining table is one of the most satisfying woodworking projects you can take on. In this guide, I’ll show you how to build a DIY dining table using reclaimed timber, simple tools, and proven joinery techniques to create a strong, long-lasting rustic industrial table.

This project uses 100% reclaimed wood, costs far less than buying a solid wood table, and can be completed over a weekend with basic woodworking experience. The same construction principles can also be applied to tables of different sizes, shapes, and styles.

This rustic industrial dining table was one of my favourite builds. The wood came from an old, discarded deck and was wet, worn, and rough when I started. After drying, cleaning, preparing, and joining the boards, it was transformed into a beautiful, heavy-duty table with loads of character.

Below you’ll find the full step-by-step process, along with tool recommendations, finishing options, and tips to help you build your own dining table with confidence.

Project Overview

• Project: DIY Dining Table
• Style: Rustic Industrial
• Difficulty: Beginner–Intermediate
• Build Time: 2–3 days
• Seating Capacity: 6 people (easily adjustable)

Table Dimensions (My Build)

The dining table I built for this project is a comfortable 6-seater, ideal for everyday family use or hosting guests.

• Length: 180 cm
• Width: 90 cm
• Height: 75 cm
• Top Thickness: approx. 40 mm
• Seating Capacity: 6 people

These dimensions create a solid, well-proportioned table without feeling bulky or oversized.

The great thing about this design is that it’s very easy to scale.
By simply adjusting the length of the tabletop boards, you can build:

• A smaller 4-seater dining table (140x80cm)
• A standard 6-seater (as shown here)
• A larger 8-seater dining table (220x90cm)

The same construction method and joinery process applies regardless of size.

Materials Needed

All materials used in this build are easy to source and relatively affordable, especially if you’re working with reclaimed timber. You can swap the reclaimed timber for some 8×2″ construction timber, which can be sourced from your local building materials supplier.

• Reclaimed timber boards (for tabletop) / Or new 8×2″ construction timber
• Wood glue (PVA or similar)
• Biscuits (for biscuit joiner)
• Epoxy resin (optional, for filling gaps)
• Metal table legs
• Wood screws (approx. 40 mm for fixing legs)
• Sandpaper (60, 120, 180, 240 grit + 800+ grit for resin sanding)
• Finish (Osmo oil, Danish oil, tung oil, or varnish)

Tip: Always buy a little extra timber if possible. Reclaimed wood can hide defects, and having spare boards saves frustration later.

Sourcing and Preparing Timber for Your DIY Dining Table

For this build, I used reclaimed timber from a friend’s old decking. The boards were originally structural support beams measuring roughly 47mm x 150mm x 3.6m. They were wet, worn, and rough in places, but that weathered character adds to the rustic industrial look.

Almost any solid timber will work. Reclaimed scaffold boards are popular, but you can also use new timber for a cleaner finish. I recommend 8×2″ (200mm x 50mm) construction-grade timber from a builders’ merchant, which is affordable, easy to source, and ideal for a chunky tabletop.

Quick Tips

• Always use dry timber to reduce warping, cupping, and splitting
• Aim for a moisture content of 15% or less
• Choose straight, solid boards with minimal twists or cracks
• Let timber acclimatise indoors before building
• Good timber selection saves time and leads to a stronger, longer lasting table

How to Build a Rustic Industrial Dining Table – A Step-by-Step Guide

How to build a dining table using the correct techniques for the ultimate long-lasting finish.

Step 1: Prepare and Inspect Reclaimed Wood

Start by inspecting each board and removing any visible screws, nails, or metal fixings. This can be time consuming, especially with reclaimed timber. I had to upgrade to a larger wrecking bar to deal with stubborn, rusted nails.

If nails snap off below the surface, simply knock them deeper into the wood using a nail punch. It is fine to leave buried metal inside the board as long as nothing is protruding.

Important: Any exposed metal will damage planer blades, saw blades, and sanding discs, so take your time with this step.

Once all fixings are dealt with, give the boards a quick visual check for major cracks, rot, or severe warping and set aside any pieces that are unsuitable.

Quick Tips

• Use a strong magnet to help locate hidden metal
• Wear gloves to avoid cuts and splinters
• Mark problem areas with a pencil

Step 2.  Cut the Boards to Length

Decide whether you want to cut the boards to final length now or trim the tabletop after it has been glued up. Either method works, but leaving them slightly long and trimming later can help achieve perfectly square ends.

Use a mitre saw, circular saw, or handsaw to make the cuts. A mitre saw is ideal, as it produces straight, accurate 90-degree cuts with minimal effort.

Quick Tips

• Support long boards properly to prevent tear out
• Cut boards a few millimetres long and trim later for accuracy
• Mark all boards before cutting to ensure consistent lengths

Step 3. Plane and Sand the Boards Flat

Plane each board to remove surface dirt, roughness, and uneven high spots. I used a thicknesser for speed, but a handheld electric plane or manual hand plane works perfectly well.

Reclaimed timber often contains embedded grit and grime, which can be hard on blades. Expect some wear, but planing first will save a huge amount of sanding time later.

Once planed, sand each board to achieve a smooth, flat surface:

• Start with 60 grit to remove heavy marks
• Move to 120 grit, then finish at 240 grit

A belt sander is great for initial passes, followed by an orbital sander for the final smoothing.

This step is crucial because the smoother the boards are, the better the glue joints will be when assembling the tabletop.

Quick Tips

• Check boards for metal again before planing
• Sand along the grain for best results
• Focus on flattening rather than perfection at this stage

Step 4.  Joint the Boards for a Flat Tabletop

To create a flat, seamless tabletop, the boards need to be aligned accurately before gluing.

The easiest way to do this is with a biscuit jointer. This tool cuts matching slots into the edges of each board, allowing you to insert small wooden biscuits that help keep everything perfectly aligned during glue-up.

Biscuits are mainly used for alignment rather than strength, but they make a big difference when trying to keep all boards sitting level across the tabletop.

Cut biscuit slots along the edges of each board, spacing them evenly from end to end.

Once all slots are cut, you are ready to move on to gluing and clamping the tabletop.

Optional Quick Tips

• Dry fit the boards before adding glue
• Mark matching boards with pencil before cutting
• Keep the jointer fence square

Once all the bits have been cut with the biscuit jointer, it is time for glueing.

Step 5. Glue and Clamp the Tabletop

Apply wood glue along the edges of each board, insert the biscuits, and bring the boards together.

You will need long sash clamps to pull the boards tight across the width of the tabletop. My table was around 90 cm wide, so I used four sash clamps across the width. To help pull everything together lengthways, I also used two ratchet straps.

To prevent the tabletop from bowing while clamping, place thick, straight pieces of timber across the top and bottom of the glued boards and clamp them down at both ends. This helps keep the surface flat while the glue cures.

Once the main tabletop is glued, trim the ends square, then glue on the end boards using the same method. Ratchet straps work well for this stage.

Carry out all glue-ups on a flat, level surface. Any twist or bow introduced here will be difficult to fix later and may cause the finished table to wobble.

Use a good-quality wood glue. Although most glues set quickly, I recommend leaving the tabletop clamped overnight for maximum strength.

Quick Tips

• Wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth before it dries
• Alternate clamps above and below the tabletop to balance pressure
• Do a dry fit before adding glue

Step 6. More Sanding

Next, it’s crucial to sand the tabletop thoroughly to achieve a smooth surface before addressing any gaps or imperfections.

Step 7: Fill Gaps and Imperfections (Optional Epoxy or Filler)

At this stage, decide how you want to deal with small gaps, cracks, and holes in the tabletop.

You have a few good options:

• Wood filler
• A mix of wood glue and sanding dust
• Epoxy resin (for a glass smooth finish)

I chose epoxy resin, as it fills deep voids while still allowing the character of the reclaimed wood to show through.

Because my boards had plenty of holes and imperfections, I first taped the underside of the tabletop using electrical tape to prevent resin from leaking through.

Mix the resin according to the manufacturer’s instructions and pour it into all gaps in one session. Most epoxies give you a working time of only a couple of hours before they begin to thicken.

As the resin settles, it may sink into deeper cracks. Simply top up these areas as needed.

Use a small handheld blowtorch or heat gun to gently pass over the surface and release any trapped air bubbles.

Allow the resin to cure overnight. Ideally, keep the workshop temperature around 18°C to prevent clouding.

Once fully cured, the surface can be planed and sanded flush in the next step.

Quick Tips

• Always test on scrap first
• Wear gloves and work in a well ventilated area
• Do not overheat resin when removing bubbles

Step 8. Final Planing and Sanding

Once the resin is set, begin to manually plane the whole surface, followed again by loads of sanding. When sanding resin it’s important to use a very fine grit (800+) to get the perfect finish.

Step 8: Attach the Table Legs

Position the metal table legs on the underside of the tabletop and mark the fixing holes. Secure the legs using 40 mm wood screws, ensuring everything is square and evenly spaced.

This process is simple and only takes a few minutes.

Top Tip: Before fitting the legs, allow the tabletop to acclimatise indoors for about a week. Wood naturally expands and contracts when moving into a new environment, and letting it settle first reduces the risk of screws loosening over time.

Store the tabletop flat while it adjusts to prevent any twisting or warping.

Step 9. Apply Finish and Protect the Wood

The whole dining table top was finished with a few coats of Osmo Oil (3058 clear matt) and lightly sanded with a foam sanding pad after each layer.

And there we have it. One beautiful industrial style table. Super heavy duty. Love it! It looks even nicer in person, the picture doesn’t do it justice.

Tool List

To complete this job you’re going to need a few basic tools and a couple of specialist tools to make things easier.  Here’s my recommendations.

Tool	Average Cost
Wrecking bar	£20
Electric plane and/or hand plane	£140 / £40
Claw hammer and rubber mallet	£15 / £15
Biscuit jointer	£160
Circular saw or sliding mitre saw	£120 / £150 / £180
Thicknesser (optional)	£300
Orbital sander and/or belt sander	£80 / £80
Sash clamps and ratchet straps	£50 / £15
Moisture Meter	£23

Find Your Perfect Legs

Where can you find the perfect steel legs for your projects? Take a look at my extensive guide to finding the perfect metal table legs for your project.

You could also ask a local metal worker to make you some but alternatively, you can find the perfect legs on Etsy (a handmade online marketplace)

Here are a few of my favourites:

Thanks for Reading

Thanks for reading, please do check out some of my other articles. Did you like my DIY dining table? Leave a comment below to ask any questions or share your experiences.

Here are a few more of my builds for some inspiration.

Check out my scaffold board rustic industrial dining table post here.

As you can see, you can learn how to build a table of any shape or size with this construction technique. My coffee tables, desks and dining tables all use the same process of joining timber with the biscuit jointing system for the strongest finish.

Thanks for reading and good luck with your projects.

Ben

FAQs

Over the years, I’ve built plenty of dining tables, coffee tables, and desks using the same core techniques. Here are the questions I get asked most often, with straight answers to help you build with confidence.

Is it easy to build your own dining table?

Yes, as long as you keep the design simple and take your time. If you can measure accurately, cut straight, and sand patiently, you can build a solid dining table. The key is using dry timber, keeping the tabletop flat during glue up, and not rushing the finishing stage.

What timber is best for a DIY dining table?

You can use reclaimed or new timber. Reclaimed wood adds loads of character but takes more prep. For new timber, I recommend 8×2 inch construction grade boards from a builders merchant because they are affordable, easy to source, and ideal for a chunky tabletop. Whatever you choose, aim for timber that is straight, solid, and properly dry.

What moisture content should the wood be before I start?

Aim for 15 percent moisture content or less. If the boards feel damp or look freshly wet, give them time to dry. Ideally, let the timber acclimatise indoors for a few days before building so it settles to your home’s humidity.

How do I know if reclaimed wood is safe to use?

Inspect every board for rot, mould, and insect damage, then remove all nails and screws. Be cautious with old paint or finishes, as they can contain harmful chemicals. If you are unsure, do not use that piece. When sanding reclaimed wood, wear a proper dust mask and work in a well ventilated space.

Do I need a biscuit jointer to build the tabletop?

No. A biscuit jointer mainly helps with alignment during glue up. You can still build a strong tabletop without one if your board edges are straight and you clamp carefully. If you do have one, it makes keeping everything level much easier.

How do I stop the tabletop from bowing during glue up?

Glue up on a flat surface and use straight battens clamped across the top and bottom to keep the boards level. Alternate clamps above and below the tabletop to balance pressure, and tighten gradually rather than fully tightening one clamp at a time.

What if my table wobbles after assembling?

First check that all leg screws are tight and the legs are sitting square. Then test the table on a different part of the room, as uneven floors are common. If it still wobbles, add felt pads or adjustable feet to level it. Reclaimed softwood can also move slightly as it settles, so minor wobble can improve after a week indoors.

How long does it take to build a dining table?

This table took me about three days in total, roughly 24 hours of hands on work. Your time will vary depending on timber condition and how much prep is needed. Factor in glue curing and drying time between finish coats.

What finish is best for a dining table?

If you want maximum durability, choose a hard wearing finish like polyurethane. For a natural look that is easy to refresh, oils like Osmo, Danish oil, or tung oil are great options. The best choice depends on whether you prefer low maintenance or a finish you can easily touch up.

Do I need to maintain a wooden dining table?

Yes, but it is simple. Oil finished tables can benefit from a light top up coat every year or two depending on use. Varnished tables usually last longer before needing attention, often around five years or more. Use coasters, wipe spills quickly, and avoid harsh cleaners to keep the finish looking its best.

Can I build this table for 8 people instead of 6?

Yes. The build process is the same. Increase the tabletop length and, if needed, choose heavier duty legs for extra stability. Many 8 seat tables are around 200 to 240 cm long depending on chair size and spacing.

How much will a DIY dining table cost?

Cost depends on your timber and legs. Reclaimed wood can be very cheap or even free, but it takes more time to prepare. New 8×2 timber and quality metal legs will cost more, but still usually works out cheaper than a solid wood table of similar size.