Choosing the right shed cladding affects how your shed looks, how well it handles the weather and ultimately how long it lasts. Options range from inexpensive overlap boards to shiplap, tongue-and-groove, loglap, and non-timber alternatives like composite, plastic and metal panels.
I’ve built several timber garden buildings and used different types of shed cladding along the way. For my own workshop, I chose loglap timber cladding, which has created a solid external shell and stood up well to the Cornish weather (the full story, including how it’s held up, is in the final section).
In this guide, I’ll compare the main shed cladding types, cover thickness, durability, weather resistance, and cost, and walk through how to fix and maintain them, based on what I’ve learned from installing them myself.
What is Shed Cladding?
Shed cladding is the outer layer of boards or panels fixed to a shed’s timber frame. It protects the structure from the weather while creating the finished exterior.
Cladding can be installed horizontally or vertically, usually over a breather membrane and a ventilated cavity. Shiplap, tongue-and-groove and loglap use overlapping or interlocking profiles to help shed water, while simpler overlap boards are laid over one another.
I think of cladding as more than a decorative finish; it’s the protective shell of the building. For a shed I want to last, I’d generally spend a little more on good-quality timber rather than choosing the thinnest boards available.
Most timber cladding is pressure-treated softwood, which resists rot far better than untreated timber. I personally use pressure-treated spruce timber for my builds and protect it with a high-quality UV-protective oil. Non-timber panels such as composite, plastic and metal cladding sidestep this question entirely, which is one of their main selling points.
What is the Best Shed Cladding?
For most timber sheds, shiplap or loglap offers the best balance of weather resistance, durability, appearance and cost, and between the two, the right choice comes down to budget and how substantial you want the finished building to feel.
For a relatively inexpensive garden shed for storing tools, bikes and garden equipment, shiplap is my starting point. I used it on my own lean-to shed, and it’s widely available, straightforward to fit, and gives a neater finish than the thin overlap boards common on cheaper sheds.
For something more substantial, I’d step up to loglap, which is what I chose for my own workshop (full details below). Its thicker, interlocking boards create a stronger external shell than the cladding supplied with budget sheds, and after putting time and money into a solid timber frame, I think it’s worth protecting with a decent external shell.
My recommendation: shiplap for a good balance of cost and performance, loglap for a thicker, more substantial finish, overlap or feather edge for tighter budgets, and composite or PVC if low maintenance matters more than a timber look.
Whatever profile you choose, don’t overlook board thickness, timber quality and treatment. A good-quality shiplap board can be a better investment than poorly made loglap or tongue-and-groove.
Shed Cladding Types Compared
The main differences between shed cladding types are how the boards fit together, their thickness and how effectively they shed water. Cost also varies considerably, particularly moving from basic overlap boards to thicker machined timber profiles.
Thicker loglap profiles are available from sellers on eBay – NLC Garden Products offer a 38mm double tongue and groove loglap cladding for those who want something a little more substantial.
The figures below are useful typical ranges rather than fixed specifications, as actual board thicknesses and profiles vary between manufacturers. Always check the manufacturer’s finished dimensions and coverage width rather than relying solely on the nominal board size.
| Shed cladding type | Profile | Typical thickness* | Average cost (per m) | Vertical or Horizontal |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Overlap | Boards overlap one another | ~7–22mm | 22mm – £3.50 | Horizontal |
| Feather edge | Tapered boards overlapped horizontally | ~7–18mm at thick edge | 7-15mm – £1.10 | Horizontal |
| Shiplap | Rebated/interlocking overlapping profile | ~12–19mm | 16mm – £2.60 | Vertical & Horizontal |
| Tongue & groove | Tongue on one edge slots into groove on next | ~12–19mm+ | 15mm – £2.10 | Vertical & Horizontal |
| Loglap | Interlocking T&G-style profile with curved outer face | ~19–38mm+ | 22mm – £3.40 38mm – £6 | Vertical & Horizontal |
| Composite/PVC | Usually interlocking manufactured boards | Varies | 20mm – £4.50 | Vertical & Horizontal |
| Metal | Profiled or interlocking sheets | Varies | £3.50 | Vertical |
*Always check the manufacturer’s finished dimensions and coverage width rather than relying solely on the nominal board size.
Types of Shed Cladding: Which Should You Choose?
Overlap Cladding
Overlap is the simplest and cheapest form of timber shed cladding. Rather than a machined interlocking joint, each horizontal board overlaps the one beneath it, creating a basic weather-shedding exterior without the machining required for shiplap or tongue and groove.
You’ll commonly see overlap on inexpensive garden sheds, and there’s nothing wrong with the principle. Overlapping timber has been used on buildings for generations. But the boards supplied with budget sheds can be thin and more prone to movement, splitting and warping. For a basic storage shed where price is the priority, overlap makes sense; for anything built to last, I’d spend more on a thicker system.
Feather-Edge Cladding
Feather-edge boards use the same overlapping principle, but each board is tapered so one edge is considerably thicker than the other. The thicker lower edge overlaps the thinner upper edge of the board below, shedding rainwater effectively.
It’s a cost-effective option for a DIY shed and gives an attractive, traditional finish when installed neatly, without the precisely machined joints shiplap or loglap need. Board quality and thickness still matter, though: I’d avoid very thin feather edge for a substantial workshop, but heavier boards make a perfectly capable cladding system when detailed and treated correctly.
Shiplap Cladding
Shiplap cladding for sheds is one of the most popular choices, and for most DIY builds it’s probably the best all-round option. Each board has a machined profile that overlaps the board below, creating a neat joint that helps rainwater run down the outside rather than behind the cladding.
Compared with basic overlap boards, shed shiplap cladding tends to give a flatter, more uniform finish and is generally available in thicker boards. It’s relatively straightforward to install and offers a good balance of price, appearance and weather resistance. I’d happily use good-quality shiplap shed cladding on a garden shed, particularly where the extra cost of loglap isn’t justified, just pay attention to the finished board thickness rather than assuming all shiplap is the same quality.
Tongue & groove cladding
With tongue-and-groove cladding, a projecting tongue along one edge of the board fits into a corresponding groove in the next, producing closely joined boards and a clean, uniform appearance.
It’s a good option for higher-quality sheds, since the interlocking boards create a more substantial wall than basic overlap. However, “tongue and groove” describes the joint rather than one particular external profile, so check the product is actually intended for exterior cladding. I’d compare the actual thickness, timber quality, profile and treatment rather than choosing something purely because it’s labelled tongue and groove.
Loglap Cladding
Loglap is similar to tongue-and-groove but has a curved profile on the external face, giving the finished wall a more substantial, log-cabin-style appearance. It’s generally available in thicker sections than standard shiplap, which is why I chose it for my own workshop (see the closing section for how it’s held up).
Once fitted together, the interlocking boards create a neat, weather-resistant finish, and the extra thickness gives the building a strong, solid external shell compared with the thinner boards found on many off-the-shelf sheds.
What about ThermoWood Cladding?
ThermoWood is worth considering for a higher-spec shed or garden building. It isn’t a different profile in itself: softwood such as spruce or pine is thermally modified using heat and steam to improve its stability and durability, then machined into familiar profiles like shiplap and tongue and groove. It’s a step beyond ordinary treated softwood, absorbing less moisture and reducing the movement, swelling and shrinkage that can affect exterior timber cladding.
I’ve used ThermoWood on a garden room and like the combination of a natural timber appearance with improved dimensional stability. It’s a more premium option, so I probably wouldn’t specify it for a basic storage shed, but for a workshop, garden office or contemporary shed where appearance and stability are priorities, it’s well worth considering. I’ve covered the material and installation in more detail in my ThermoWood cladding and decking guide.
Composite and Plastic Shed cladding
Composite cladding for sheds, along with plastic shed cladding (PVC), offers an alternative for anyone who wants to minimise ongoing timber maintenance. Depending on the product, boards may interlock or overlap to create a weather-resistant surface, and neither needs the regular staining or oiling timber finishes require.
The main advantages are low maintenance and resistance to rot, but you’ll generally pay more upfront, and I personally still prefer the appearance and feel of real timber on a timber-framed shed or workshop. That said, composite or plastic cladding can make sense in exposed locations, or wherever a low-maintenance exterior is the priority over a traditional look.
Metal Cladding
Metal cladding usually consists of profiled steel or aluminium sheets fixed over the building’s supporting structure. It sheds water extremely effectively and creates a durable, relatively low-maintenance exterior.
It suits larger workshops, agricultural-style buildings and contemporary garden structures particularly well. The main considerations are detailing, condensation management, noise in heavy rain, and making sure cut edges and fixings are properly protected. For a traditional timber garden shed it usually isn’t my first aesthetic choice, but for a larger workshop where durability and low maintenance matter more than a timber look, it’s certainly worth considering.
What Thickness Should Shed Cladding Be?
There’s no single ideal thickness for shed cladding, but around 12–22mm is a sensible range for many good-quality timber sheds, with heavier-duty profiles like loglap often sitting thicker still.
Thin boards can work well on a basic storage shed, but they generally have less rigidity and are more prone to movement and warping. Thicker boards, like the 22mm loglap I used on my own workshop, feel considerably more substantial and provide a solid external shell without being unnecessarily heavy.
Rather than buying the thickest boards available, choose the thickness to suit the building: thinner and more cost-effective for light storage use, or thicker where you want the cladding to last for decades.
How Much Shed Cladding Do I Need?
Calculating cladding by area (m²)
Start by calculating the total area of each external wall. Remember to include the additional wall area beneath a dual-pitched or pent roof, as shown in the image above. Once you have the total, subtract large openings such as doors and windows.
For a simple 3m × 2m shed with 2m-high walls, the four rectangular walls would cover:
(3 + 3 + 2 + 2) × 2 = 20m²
If the doors and windows account for 3m²:
20m² − 3m² = 17m²
For a dual-pitched roof, calculate the rectangular section of the end wall first, then add the triangular gable:
Gable area = (wall width × gable height) ÷ 2
For a pent roof, the easiest method is to use the average of the high and low wall heights:
Wall area = width × ((high-side height + low-side height) ÷ 2)
The image above shows exactly where to take these measurements.
Once you’ve calculated all the walls and subtracted any large openings, add around 10% extra for waste and cuts. It’s particularly useful to allow for waste on gable and pent ends, where cutting boards to follow the roofline creates more offcuts.
When calculating individual boards, always use the manufacturer’s coverage width, not the overall board width. A 125mm board might only cover around 110mm once the boards overlap or interlock, which can make a surprisingly big difference when ordering enough timber for an entire shed.
Calculating cladding by board length
If you’d rather work it out board by board than in square metres, you’ll need the profile’s coverage width (also called the profile height when boards run horizontally), plus the height and width of each wall.
Divide the wall height by the coverage width to get the number of board rows, then multiply by the wall width to get the total run of boards needed in linear metres.
For example, a 2m-high wall clad with boards that cover 110mm each needs roughly 2000 ÷ 110 = 18 rows; if the wall is 3m wide, that’s 18 × 3m = 54 linear metres of board for that wall, before adding waste. Do this for each wall, add them together, and add about 10% more for waste and cuts around openings and corners.
Tip: Order board lengths to avoid unnecessary joins
On my own build, I wanted each run of cladding to go from corner to corner without any joins, so I ordered board lengths to suit each individual wall. This is worth checking before you buy, as some suppliers may simply provide your total metreage in their standard stock lengths. For example, cutting a 4.8m board to cover a 3m wall leaves a 1.8m offcut, which is no use for a 2.4m wall. You can quickly end up with unnecessary joins or a lot of wasted timber. If a clean, continuous finish matters, work out the lengths required for each wall and ask your supplier whether they can provide them before ordering.
How to Fix Shed Cladding
For a timber-framed shed, cladding is normally fixed to the frame or to vertical battens installed over a breather membrane. Battens create a drained and ventilated cavity behind the boards, helping moisture escape rather than becoming trapped against the timber.
Horizontal cladding should generally be installed from the bottom upwards, with the profiles correctly oriented to shed water. Use corrosion-resistant fixings suitable for exterior timber, such as stainless-steel nails where appropriate, and make sure each fixing penetrates sufficiently into the supporting timber. I personally prefer to use a nail gun with galvanised 40mm nails.
Small 40mm x 3mm screws are also a suitable option, but it’s important to ensure they’re suitable for outdoor use. A silver screw is normally zinc-plated, galvanised or made of stainless steel, and they won’t corrode. The finish isn’t quite as nice but they are easier to work with and adjust.
Don’t clamp interlocking boards together excessively tightly. Timber naturally expands and contracts as moisture levels change, so follow the cladding manufacturer’s guidance on fixing position and allowance for movement.
I’ll cover the complete process separately in my how to clad a shed guide.
Treating and Maintaining Timber Shed Cladding
Good maintenance significantly extends the life of timber shed cladding. Where possible, I like to treat timber before installation, since it’s much easier to protect edges, ends and areas that become difficult to reach once the boards are fitted. Any freshly cut ends should also be treated with an appropriate end-grain or timber preservative where the product specification calls for it.
I’ve painted a number of my own sheds and treated several others with a protective UV oil. Which you choose really comes down to the finish you want. Where colour is desired, a good-quality exterior timber paint is the way to go. If you’d rather keep the natural wood colour showing through, a UV-protective oil gives the best long-term performance and protection, and it’s what I used on my own workshop.
Once installed, inspect the cladding periodically for peeling finishes, cracks, loose boards and areas where water is collecting, and reapply stain, oil, paint or preservative according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Where a board has split, rotted or come loose, it’s usually more effective to replace that section than to patch it, matching the profile and thickness of the surrounding boards.
One of the most important details is at the bottom of the wall. Don’t let timber cladding sit against soil, paving or standing water. Starting with a well-built shed base and keeping the bottom edge raised, so rainwater can drain away, helps prevent one of the most common causes of premature decay.
What Shed Cladding Would I Use?
If I were building my workshop again, I’d still choose loglap timber cladding. I used 22mm loglap on my own build, and for me it offers a good balance of strength, weather protection and appearance.
One of the main reasons I chose loglap was its thickness. The boards feel much more substantial than the relatively thin shiplap or overlap cladding supplied with many budget sheds, and once interlocked and fixed to the timber frame, they create a strong external shell that makes the whole building feel considerably more robust.
I fixed the boards using 45mm galvanised 16g nails with my DeWalt nailgun, working from the bottom upwards and making sure the boards could still accommodate natural timber movement. I then treated the finished cladding with Osmo UV Protection Satin 420. The workshop has now been standing for 8 years, so I’ve had plenty of opportunity to see how the cladding performs rather than judging it immediately after installation.
Would I change anything? I’d still use loglap, but if the budget allowed, I’d go up to 38mm loglap next time. It’s a longer-lasting board and gives noticeably better acoustic and thermal insulation, which would have been worth the extra cost for a workshop I’m in regularly. The additional cost over thinner shed cladding is something I’d happily pay again for a workshop or substantial garden building I wanted to keep for many years.
For a simple storage shed, I’d probably save some money and use good-quality shiplap instead. But for a workshop or premium DIY shed, 22mm loglap remains my preferred option.
